Edelbrock E-Force Troubleshooting Manual

[Jobodizo]

What is everybody seeing for IAT's?

Cruising down the interstate I’m about 15* over. I only ever see 30* over when I’m sitting in a long drivethru.

Sponsored

 

[Burkey]

Hey @Burkey. Lund were happy with the logs and are happy for a WOT to 7200rpm.

Also, how much of the K-brace did you cut to make supercharger fit?

I'm still trying to figure this noise out.

The closest my supercharger gets to the K brace is about 5mm. Drivers side pretty much as the brace comes out from underneath the plastic cowl. So if it was to hit it would be in that 'side to side' engine movement.

Not sure how much movement there is an engine though...

Clearly not showing up on WOT logs...

Attached a photo. There is a mark on the edge but I'm pretty sure I made that mark putting the brace back in...

Hey mate, I’ll grab you some pics tomorrow. From the photo it looks like you have adequate clearance there. I’m not on stock engine mounts so my engine won’t torque-twist as much as yours. Keep that in mind when I share.
Lund have the process down pretty damn tight, it’s unsurprising that they got it right so quickly tbh.
If you can get us a decent overall pic of the rear of the blower that might help a little. Also get one straight-on for the gaps, ideally with a scale of some sort.
The fact that it’s not showing any false knock tends to indicate that any contact that might be taking place isn’t metal on metal at least.

 

[aleccolin]

I didn't want the added vibration that comes with poly engine mounts, so I'm sticking with OE for now and used some BMR engine mount brackets on the block to lower the engine 1/4" and if necessary for clearance I can pull the spacers to lower to 1/2" total. Hoping that'll be enough room to clear everything and maybe even allow for some sort of modified/custom strut tower bar. I know the RHD guys have additional clearance issues to resolve, just throwing that out as an option.

 

[Torinate]

Thanks @Burkey

Yea, that’s how I filled it... had my done cycle it on and off. I fabricated a large funnel that I could fill and kept pouring... squeezes the crap out of all the lines and I know that helped as well. I just have a suspicion that theres a bubble somewhere that will eventually come out...

Yea, Lund knows their stuff! I’m on the 7200 rpm pull as well.

As someone mentioned, not gonna lie, that first full throttle pull was nerve racking and scary! Lund said logs looked really good. I agree too though, they’re not going to push anything for the first couple of wide open hits to get a log.

 

[Jobodizo]

I don’t know if it made any difference or not, but I had the front end of my car up on ramps when I initially filled the system. Had my wife manning the power button while I filled the tank with a large funnel. For whatever reason, never had all of the air pocket issues some of the people here are reporting. Might be something worth trying if you guys aren’t already.

 

[aham23]

99% chance it is your intercooler overflow/fill tank. They are crappy blow molded plastic. Edelbrock sent me a warranty replacement no questions asked . I’m in the middle of researching a replacement tank . I have an email in to FIGS Engineering. They have a nice ( and expensive replacement, but not sure if we can adapt to our setup. Anyone else find a good alternative?

That damn little tank!

My cap leaked a lot once a temp. I posted some pics here couple weeks ago. Got a new cap at Oriellys, the same one actually, and no more cap leaks......but there’s a very slow light leak at the front nipple/hose of the tank still. I emailed EB and they sent me a new tank. I guess both the caps and tank have known issues. I have not put it on yet.

 

[matwgood]

Cruising down the interstate I’m about 15* over. I only ever see 30* over when I’m sitting in a long drivethru.

That is interesting... I will see 30* when I am just going down the highway. It seems to always be right around 30* unless I sit for a little while then it goes up to maybe 35*. I noticed that on the surge bottle where the hoses comes in that I was leaking a little. I fixed that and haven't had a chance to take it out. I filled it up and let the pump run for awhile to check for leaks. I will drive it a little bit and keep trying to purge out any air I might have trapped in the system. Hopefully that will bring my temps down more in line.

 

[Burkey]

That is interesting... I will see 30* when I am just going down the highway. It seems to always be right around 30* unless I sit for a little while then it goes up to maybe 35*. I noticed that on the surge bottle where the hoses comes in that I was leaking a little. I fixed that and haven't had a chance to take it out. I filled it up and let the pump run for awhile to check for leaks. I will drive it a little bit and keep trying to purge out any air I might have trapped in the system. Hopefully that will bring my temps down more in line.

When you say you filled it up, do you mean you were able to remove the cap without the IC/HE pump running?

 

[plasmid]

Hey mate, I’ll grab you some pics tomorrow. From the photo it looks like you have adequate clearance there. I’m not on stock engine mounts so my engine won’t torque-twist as much as yours. Keep that in mind when I share.
Lund have the process down pretty damn tight, it’s unsurprising that they got it right so quickly tbh.
If you can get us a decent overall pic of the rear of the blower that might help a little. Also get one straight-on for the gaps, ideally with a scale of some sort.
The fact that it’s not showing any false knock tends to indicate that any contact that might be taking place isn’t metal on metal at least.

Just to close this issue off. In particular for RHD cars.

I trimmed a bit more off the brace at it's closest to the supercharger. Problem solved. I think there just wasn't enough room and probably too much twist on the stock engine mounts. It would only make 'the noise' up around the 5K rpm mark. Now its gone and it's buttery smooth.

Surprised it wasn't showing any knock though?

 

[Burkey]

Just to close this issue off. In particular for RHD cars.

I trimmed a bit more off the brace at it's closest to the supercharger. Problem solved. I think there just wasn't enough room and probably too much twist on the stock engine mounts. It would only make 'the noise' up around the 5K rpm mark. Now its gone and it's buttery smooth.

Surprised it wasn't showing any knock though?

My apologies for not getting pics to you. The day didn’t quite go to plan. Do they ever?
Glad you got it sorted. Kinda strange that it didn’t produce false-knock.

 

[plasmid]

My apologies for not getting pics to you. The day didn’t quite go to plan. Do they ever?
Glad you got it sorted. Kinda strange that it didn’t produce false-knock.

All good mate.

My gut just said it was too close. I took off another 5mm and problem solved.

Lund is happy for me to push the car out to 7300rpm now. I'm up to revision 3.

I find that they are (at least the tuner i've got) very business like. I've been asking questions in my emails/log but they don't really answer them. I am trying to learn as much as I can.

I noticed in my last WOT to 7200 my short term fuel trims pretty much sit around 1.02-1.03 during the WOT and slowly climb and max out at about 1.09 at 7200.

The AFR's pretty much sit at 0.78-0.79 the whole WOT. I'm trying to work out how much I'm pushing the fuelling. That seems OK to me.

I know there is probably no simple answer. This is on a TVS2300 with the 3 inch pulley long tubes, BAP id1050x. I think around 12 psi.

Also, do Lund not use long term fuel trims?

 

[SpArKy]

I find that they are (at least the tuner i've got) very business like. I've been asking questions in my emails/log but they don't really answer them. I am trying to learn as much as I can.

this is my biggest frustration with lund, you ask them a question and they reply but don't actually answer the question, just give a vague response suggesting something related. happens all the time.

 

[Burkey]

All good mate.

My gut just said it was too close. I took off another 5mm and problem solved.

Lund is happy for me to push the car out to 7300rpm now. I'm up to revision 3.

I find that they are (at least the tuner i've got) very business like. I've been asking questions in my emails/log but they don't really answer them. I am trying to learn as much as I can.

I noticed in my last WOT to 7200 my short term fuel trims pretty much sit around 1.02-1.03 during the WOT and slowly climb and max out at about 1.09 at 7200.

The AFR's pretty much sit at 0.78-0.79 the whole WOT. I'm trying to work out how much I'm pushing the fuelling. That seems OK to me.

I know there is probably no simple answer. This is on a TVS2300 with the 3 inch pulley long tubes, BAP id1050x. I think around 12 psi.

Also, do Lund not use long term fuel trims?

They run a good show. The problem (at times) is that they can be “too efficient” in their communications. Blunt might be another way to put it.
Most tuners would agree that once you’re down around the 1% mark it’s basically perfect. Plenty of tunes run at 5% or more (not ideal but it works fine).
Lambda at 0.78 - 0.80 is generally regarded as pretty damn safe but it also depends on the target stoich. In this case, they’ll have that sorted too.
Don’t stress on the trims. Lund aren’t in the habit of blowing engines up.

 

[plasmid]

They run a good show. The problem (at times) is that they can be “too efficient” in their communications. Blunt might be another way to put it.
Most tuners would agree that once you’re down around the 1% mark it’s basically perfect. Plenty of tunes run at 5% or more (not ideal but it works fine).
Lambda at 0.78 - 0.80 is generally regarded as pretty damn safe but it also depends on the target stoich. In this case, they’ll have that sorted too.
Don’t stress on the trims. Lund aren’t in the habit of blowing engines up.

I have no complaints with them really. Just frustrating sometimes.

I used them to run E85 N/A and I had a similar experience. Very happy with their turn around times though.

I also understand that there would be Mustang owners all around the world wanting to be friends with them. So they have to draw a line somewhere.

 

[Torinate]

I have a good drive last night and the temps still stay about 30 over ambient. Cruising, after logs etc. In looking at the logs though, I started at 90* and ended at 86*. Actually went down during the pull.

I must say, getting logs in an auto has been much about driver error!

Maybe it was nerves lol. I have the go ahead to go to 7200 for Lund. So I get into 3rd at 3000 and hammer it. Drops to 2nd and blows the tires into smoke. Log aborted. So I go completely into into manual mode like I should have but forgot and try again. In 3rd at 3000 and hammer it. Blows the tires off again. Log aborted. Try again. Go into 3rd and ease into it this time and finally I’m at 100% throttle by the time I’m just over 4000. I was able to limit wheel spin this run. I need to take @Burkey advice and do 4th gear logs. But the speed would just be so excessive. This road is a back road and recently paved. Nice smooth and grippy. Was warm.

So questions. What do all the parameters in the log mean? I know a lot of them. SAFTOT and Knock look great. Fuel trims are a wee bit rich yet. What slip_des and slip_act mean?

I am tuning with Lund and have found they’ve been very good answering my questions. I’ve had a lot of them too. Fast turn around. They have explained where they like things to be. Maybe your questions are more intelligent than mine and they answer you knowing you have lots of knowledge. Maybe my questions suck and they answer me like I’m a 3 year old knowing from my questions that I know jack sh!t.

I’ve been very happy with them. They did a damn fine job on my NA tune previously and this tune seems to be shaping right up as well.

Thanks as always!

Hopefully someone can explain these parameters I’m logging lol.

Sponsored