ice445
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2020
- Threads
- 34
- Messages
- 6,160
- Reaction score
- 7,324
- Location
- Salt Lake City, UT
- First Name
- Ryan
- Vehicle(s)
- 2020 Mustang GT 6MT
I feel like it's pretty hard to money shift these cars, I mean 2nd gear on the new ones goes to like 80mph, you almost have to be trying to do an overrev. Sure, beating on a car with cold oil is bad, but it's just a cumulative damage thing and modern oils are pretty good at preventing cold start wear nowadays, especially since 5W20 is thin enough to get to the valve train pretty quick. I totally get your logic and I'm kind of that way as well, but I also accept that sometimes when the car is out of your hands, shit you don't want to happen, will happen. But given that it's in your hands 99% of the time, it's not a concern. You think when you take it for an oil change or a warranty repair the tech doesn't slap the limiter a few times pulling into the garage? That he doesn't pin it to the wood when test driving after a fix? Because they do, lol.That was a great point. I've done that a few times before, as a matter of fact. Sent your reply to the salesman. Ha ha. Thanks brother.
The rest of your post was a diatribe. Ha ha. You just don't get it, and that's okay. First of all, we're discussing MANUAL cars here; I'm much less picky with autos. The issue is HOW the car is driven, under what conditions, and by whom. The most concerning issue to me is abusing an engine on COLD OIL. You can decrease the life of that engine significantly, especially with several test drives. If it was done on a fully warmed up engine, it's not nearly as bad. The next issue is you might be a great driver, but it's a f***ing new car, and you don't know it. If you're a good driver, you don't abuse a car until you actually know it. If you grind a tranny hard enough, you could ruin it right there (broken tooth, etc). Or worse: after you buy it. But the biggie on a manual is a money shift (downshifting instead of upshifting, mechanically overrevving the engine). Those could also dramatically decrease the life of the engine (if not too much over). So say whatever you want, but you can do real damage with even less than 50 miles. Oh, and by the way, I always ask for a demo to test-drive. If not available, I test drive it sedately, just like if I had just bought it myself. You're probably going to say next that I'm stupid, but that's who I am: always respectful, even if others aren't. And if it's a demo, I don't get on it (if at all) until oil is at operating temperature (or 10-15 miles, if no gauge). If a new car, I simply don't get on it, out of respect for the new future owner (in case they're like me. Ha ha).
As I said already, the 66 miles on this car are not an automatic deal-breaker; that depends on how the test-drive go... if it even goes. Still waiting on photos of door panels, sills, etc., to see what's the damage. And my biggest hurdle is one that I might not be able to overcome: If dealer doesn't want to give me money back, to be able to finance the minimum of $5K they want, there won't be any Bullitt. Will ask a few people I know that might want my truck, and if I could do a deal privately without having to advertise it, then I'd be able to buy something farther away. We'll see how it goes. But I'm not going to give away several thousands dollars just because the difference has to be 5 grand.
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