Roadway 5.0
Strassejager
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2016
- Threads
- 57
- Messages
- 1,483
- Reaction score
- 1,780
- Location
- New York - USA
- First Name
- Mike
- Vehicle(s)
- 2016GT PP 6MT
- Vehicle Showcase
- 1
- Thread starter
- #1
Today I installed Steeda’s front sway bar and adjustable end links. It was time to ditch the PP sway bar—I had a bit of sway on sharp turns that I wanted to get rid of, so in the new bar went.
Install notes:
Let me say that this install was much easier than expected. It took a few hours, but I was working at a leisurely pace.
The toughest bit of the install is what all the YouTube install videos don’t show you...the bushing bolt under the alternator is a MAJOR pain to break, and I despise the ridiculous plastic flap that sits in the way of the operation:
I used a 3/8” socket wrench to squeeze on the bolt...a 1/2” will not fit under the alternator nor would a breaker bar and socket. I didn’t have the necessary leverage, so I got creative with a breaker-bar slid over the socket wrench (a roof rack with the end cap pulled off):
With this bolt out of the way, the remaining three bushing bolts came right out via a 20” extension by going through the engine bay (you need to remove the airbox):
The rest was not challenging—surprisingly so. I fished the OEM bar out from the **passenger side**. The only slight resistance was routing the bar around the large radiator hose. All too easy and done in 10 minutes or so.
I pushed the new Steeda bar in from the passenger side. Another 10 minutes and done:
I chose to attach the end links differently than how the OEM bit were installed—the large Steeda bar didn’t allow for much clearance (1-2mm) between end link and strut, so I installed the end links through the back side of the bar to give globs of clearance (testing still needed to ensure clearance at full lock):
The big surprise during this install was that my passenger-side OEM PP sway bar bushing was no longer fully bonded. Here’s a video of the properly bonded driver’s side:
And now the un-bonded passenger-side:
Cleary not a good situation, and this brings to light as to why I felt the car was more responsive turning fast one way, as opposed to the other. Another surprise was that the passenger-side OEM sway bar end link was bent. It wasn’t bent badly, but bent nevertheless. Glad I changed out the whole lot.
All and all, a straightforward install that was actually enjoyable to do in the garage on jack-stands. More to follow on how it drives once I can get out and about. Have a good one,
- Mike
——————————
UPDATE:
This bar was well worth the time and coin. The steering is much more accurate, the nose stays flat, left/right steering effort/feedback is now symmetrical, and the steering wheel snaps back to center where it would previously linger about 1/2” off center. The bar is set at medium-stiff (third hole towards the front).
I blasted a series of 45 to 90 degree turns, with my winter tires no less, and front grip for sure increased. The steering is a touch heavier in mid-turn, and is deliciously precise. No degradation of ride quality.
In the end, I came to three conclusions:
1) Replace the PP bar if you lower your car or just want better handling.
2) Adjustable end links are a worthy upgrade as they give mounting options and are stronger than the OEM pieces
3) It absolutely surprises me just how light and precise this car can become with a big front bar along with my other suspension mods. My buddy’s GTi feels like a soupy, heavy mess in comparison. The S550 is a hell of a value.
Have a good one,
— Mike
—————
UPDATE #2 12JAN21
Team — be sure to use medium strength locktite on the endlink nuts. I had some clunking develop after 100 or so miles and the locktite did the trick.
I’m also running mid-soft front now, no longer mid-stiff. Much better for uneven pavement in turns around town and still delivers the desired performance, turn-in, and steering weight.
— Mike
Install notes:
Let me say that this install was much easier than expected. It took a few hours, but I was working at a leisurely pace.
The toughest bit of the install is what all the YouTube install videos don’t show you...the bushing bolt under the alternator is a MAJOR pain to break, and I despise the ridiculous plastic flap that sits in the way of the operation:
I used a 3/8” socket wrench to squeeze on the bolt...a 1/2” will not fit under the alternator nor would a breaker bar and socket. I didn’t have the necessary leverage, so I got creative with a breaker-bar slid over the socket wrench (a roof rack with the end cap pulled off):
With this bolt out of the way, the remaining three bushing bolts came right out via a 20” extension by going through the engine bay (you need to remove the airbox):
The rest was not challenging—surprisingly so. I fished the OEM bar out from the **passenger side**. The only slight resistance was routing the bar around the large radiator hose. All too easy and done in 10 minutes or so.
I pushed the new Steeda bar in from the passenger side. Another 10 minutes and done:
I chose to attach the end links differently than how the OEM bit were installed—the large Steeda bar didn’t allow for much clearance (1-2mm) between end link and strut, so I installed the end links through the back side of the bar to give globs of clearance (testing still needed to ensure clearance at full lock):
The big surprise during this install was that my passenger-side OEM PP sway bar bushing was no longer fully bonded. Here’s a video of the properly bonded driver’s side:
And now the un-bonded passenger-side:
Cleary not a good situation, and this brings to light as to why I felt the car was more responsive turning fast one way, as opposed to the other. Another surprise was that the passenger-side OEM sway bar end link was bent. It wasn’t bent badly, but bent nevertheless. Glad I changed out the whole lot.
All and all, a straightforward install that was actually enjoyable to do in the garage on jack-stands. More to follow on how it drives once I can get out and about. Have a good one,
- Mike
——————————
UPDATE:
This bar was well worth the time and coin. The steering is much more accurate, the nose stays flat, left/right steering effort/feedback is now symmetrical, and the steering wheel snaps back to center where it would previously linger about 1/2” off center. The bar is set at medium-stiff (third hole towards the front).
I blasted a series of 45 to 90 degree turns, with my winter tires no less, and front grip for sure increased. The steering is a touch heavier in mid-turn, and is deliciously precise. No degradation of ride quality.
In the end, I came to three conclusions:
1) Replace the PP bar if you lower your car or just want better handling.
2) Adjustable end links are a worthy upgrade as they give mounting options and are stronger than the OEM pieces
3) It absolutely surprises me just how light and precise this car can become with a big front bar along with my other suspension mods. My buddy’s GTi feels like a soupy, heavy mess in comparison. The S550 is a hell of a value.
Have a good one,
— Mike
—————
UPDATE #2 12JAN21
Team — be sure to use medium strength locktite on the endlink nuts. I had some clunking develop after 100 or so miles and the locktite did the trick.
I’m also running mid-soft front now, no longer mid-stiff. Much better for uneven pavement in turns around town and still delivers the desired performance, turn-in, and steering weight.
— Mike
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Last edited:
