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2018 Royal Crimson F1A94 Procharged, TH400 Drag Project

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and here lies the issues with getting to this level of mods.

i like that you feel exactly like i do......someones brothers mothers best friends dog sitters cousin loved their th400. I think whoever is tuning your car you should suggest because they should have to change your tune for either a 3spd or a 2spd.
I did email Shoemaker and he confirmed he'd be able to tune the TH400 as he's done some already. I'm still all in on the TH400 as the direction I'll take.
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I did email Shoemaker and he confirmed he'd be able to tune the TH400 as he's done some already. I'm still all in on the TH400 as the direction I'll take.
Well you’re the guinea pig because i will be either doing a glide or th400.....not a fan of having to “massage” the trans tunnel to get it in. I have only read one negative experience about the Jpc swap kit but it seemed the guy had a shitty mechanic and too much money to slow down and relook at the issue.

edit: i will probably have a meltdown about all the dash lights that will come on if using all the stock stuff....
 

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Not willing to give the 10r at least 1 shot? Is consensus really that it doesn’t take power even built in the 1000-1100 range?
 

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Not willing to give the 10r at least 1 shot? Is consensus really that it doesn’t take power even built in the 1000-1100 range?
@turnswrench Limitless Performance has 2 10r80 cars consistently running low 8’s.



@Rjames18 is a member here
 
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@SolarFlare I will be making a pass on the 10r80. Shoemaker and I talked about that too. I don't see any reason not to make an attempt at one of these micro-records with a completely unopened, factory engine and trans with a centri putting in work. @Toy Cobra should be worried...until he makes his pass with upgraded rotating assembly and annihilates me.

@Tonymustang302 I will not put one cent into the 10r80. LPF builds their 10r80s. A converter is $2200 (with core charge), the upgraded clutch kit is $550, plus labor to build the trans, and my time pulling it and putting it back in. So for $3000 - $3500 I can have an upgraded 10r80, or for $6500 I can have a purpose built, proven transmission that weighs 100 lbs less. To me, that extra cash is a smart long term investment. I can turn around and sell the 10r80 and recoup some of the difference.
 

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@SolarFlare I will be making a pass on the 10r80. Shoemaker and I talked about that too. I don't see any reason not to make an attempt at one of these micro-records with a completely unopened, factory engine and trans with a centri putting in work. @Toy Cobra should be worried...until he makes his pass with upgraded rotating assembly and annihilates me.

@Tonymustang302 I will not put one cent into the 10r80. LPF builds their 10r80s. A converter is $2200 (with core charge), the upgraded clutch kit is $550, plus labor to build the trans, and my time pulling it and putting it back in. So for $3000 - $3500 I can have an upgraded 10r80, or for $6500 I can have a purpose built, proven transmission that weighs 100 lbs less. To me, that extra cash is a smart long term investment. I can turn around and sell the 10r80 and recoup some of the difference.
lol. The beginning of your comment i read like a dr suess paragraph..

i will not put a cent in my 10r80, i will not spend money on it hear or there, i will not send it anywhere. Lolol

so you will be doing the swap yourself? And be careful, the upgrades add up quick on the th400..... 6500 is a starting point for 900rwhp from my research.
 
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lol. The beginning of your comment i read like a dr suess paragraph..

i will not put a cent in my 10r80, i will not spend money on it hear or there, i will not send it anywhere. Lolol

so you will be doing the swap yourself? And be careful, the upgrades add up quick on the th400..... 6500 is a starting point for 900rwhp from my research.
:cwl::cwl:

Yessir, it stacks fast!
 

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Ask PBD if they can have a shift output to shift the trans for you at the track, would be purely rpm/time based shifting. Street driving ok fuck around and shift it manually. At the track let the computer do anything and everything it can. Less for driver error. Any driver, not saying you aren't a good driver. However that will require air shifter(good thing you already have CO2:)), and solenoid inputs. Not sure what the coyote pcm has for outputs. But like that M&M 3 spd shifter has an integrated solenoid already in it, just need the wiring inputs to tell it 1-2, and 2-3 shifts. 1,000+hp someday in a heavy car will need a stout trans. Take a hard look at Coan, M&M, and a few others. Tough pill to swallow, but you don't want to always fight trans issues someday as you go harder and harder.
 
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Ask PBD if they can have a shift output to shift the trans for you at the track, would be purely rpm/time based shifting. Street driving ok fuck around and shift it manually. At the track let the computer do anything and everything it can. Less for driver error. Any driver, not saying you aren't a good driver. However that will require air shifter(good thing you already have CO2:)), and solenoid inputs. Not sure what the coyote pcm has for outputs. But like that M&M 3 spd shifter has an integrated solenoid already in it, just need the wiring inputs to tell it 1-2, and 2-3 shifts. 1,000+hp someday in a heavy car will need a stout trans. Take a hard look at Coan, M&M, and a few others. Tough pill to swallow, but you don't want to always fight trans issues someday as you go harder and harder.
I have been pricing air shifters for sure! No sense in not using the co2. I have noticed that if you go with a Hurst plus a Shifnoid add-on, you're pretty close to the cost of an M&M :) I don't know if the factory PCM will do shift by rpm type stuff, but I am sure I can find a device that will. Also been looking into a bump/staging box. I like the Smooth Stage that incorporates 2-step, bump, and transbrake.
 

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I wouldn’t bump box personally. It’s a blower car. Easy as pie to stage. Bump box is incredibly hard on the converter, and super heats the trans fluid very quickly. That’s silly Nagasaki noise makers stuff. LOL.
 
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I wouldn’t bump box personally. It’s a blower car. Easy as pie to stage. Bump box is incredibly hard on the converter, and super heats the trans fluid very quickly. That’s silly Nagasaki noise makers stuff. LOL.
This made me chuckle out loud for sure. So just illuminate the second bulb, activate the trans brake, punch the go pedal, release the brake. Sounds super simple to me. Good call!
 

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This made me chuckle out loud for sure. So just illuminate the second bulb, activate the trans brake, punch the go pedal, release the brake. Sounds super simple to me. Good call!
And even if it’s sportsman tree(almost always except heads up real races) don’t even go wot until first yellow lights. Then it’s only 1 sec on th trans brake. You can press t brake button and let off foot brake once you’ve lit stage bulbs, but wait for wot till tree activates.

watch this vid. You can see tree activate in reflection on the door. Minimal time wot on the 2 step

 

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And even if it’s sportsman tree(almost always except heads up real races) don’t even go wot until first yellow lights. Then it’s only 1 sec on th trans brake. You can press t brake button and let off foot brake once you’ve lit stage bulbs, but wait for wot till tree activates.

watch this vid. You can see tree activate in reflection on the door. Minimal time wot on the 2 step

longest 1/4 mile video ever....what was that a 11 second run?
 
 




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