BMR Tech Tip: Check those axle-to-spindle retaining nuts!

[HoosierDaddy]

You might try this if you think it’s the IRS rubber mounting bushings. I had my car out yesterday for the first time since installing this lockout kit and couldn’t detect any additional NVH.
https://www.americanmuscle.com/bmr-irs-lockoutk-kit-black-1516.html

I got this instead: https://www.americanmuscle.com/bmr-irs-lockoutk-kit-red-1516.html

Everyone knows red is faster.

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[Blufc3s]

I got this instead: https://www.americanmuscle.com/bmr-irs-lockoutk-kit-red-1516.html

Everyone knows red is faster.

It’s harder to keep clean though. Do you have any wheel hop now?

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Do you have any wheel hop now?

No. But was very minor before. I also used the Steeda inserts just so I wouldn't have to check/re-align if I ever dropped the cradle again.

 

[Seanay]

My tin scraping noise is back after 1 auto x session. I am going to try replacing the friction washer behind the wheel hub where it meets the axle, anyone know the part number? Thanks in advance

 

[moffetts]

Not everyone has those. When I replaced my stock axles, there were no friction washers and the new ones didn't come with them.

 

[Seanay]

It's my progression from this thread. Checked axle but, it was loose, tightens down to 150lb ft. Now that 2 weeks and an autox has come and gone, it's back, not as prevalent as before but I could hear a very similar scraping noise again. I will now move onto checking for the washer as several on this thread have described.

I have a 2016 pp2 and I am going to the dealer to find out if it has one

 

[randy_tho]

You might try this if you think it’s the IRS rubber mounting bushings. I had my car out yesterday for the first time since installing this lockout kit and couldn’t detect any additional NVH.
https://www.americanmuscle.com/bmr-irs-lockoutk-kit-black-1516.html

I'm already running the steeda IRS braces. Those mount up to the same location on the body I think,

 

[Seanay]

For anyone looking to replace their friction washer, here is the part # for 15-17 GTs, not sure if it's same for 18 and newer.
PART # FR3Z 7G273 A 1X damn washer cost $17 + tax....

 

[moffetts]

I wouldn't think so; the loose nuts (or bad CV joints or bad hubs) make more of a high pitched "clink" sound when weight shifts front to back. A clunking like that is more likely to be a loose bolt or worn out bushing on the control arms or diff. Do you only hear it at low speeds?

 

[Sleipner]

I wouldn't think so; the loose nuts (or bad CV joints or bad hubs) make more of a high pitched "clink" sound when weight shifts front to back. A clunking like that is more likely to be a loose bolt or worn out bushing on the control arms or diff. Do you only hear it at low speeds?

It sounds like a knock, and it started while engine breaking, then it started occurring while maneuvering R/1 in the garage with a more metallic clonk sound.

This video from another car shows how it was before they adjusted the backlash, so it might be that they did a shitty fix and the root cause is still there, however they got the backlash adjusted to the minimum side of the range (or so they said).


Now I get the knock as heard i my first video when downshifting and lifting the clutch at all speeds, it comes when turning but most predominantly while accelerating / decelerating, thus my thought it might be something connected to this thread. (That video was taken when it all began, which quickly developed to the more metal-sound as in the video in this post).

If the car is standing over the night and i start, put it in 1st gear and lift the clutch, I'm guaranteed to hear a "knock" sound. It's never connected to road surface why I've ruled out suspension etc, however i might be wrong although the only common thing every time is that it is connected to throttle/clutch, almost no matter how smooth and carefully i do it.

My first video is very carefully adjusting the throttle on 3rd gear at 50 km/h (35 mph or so?) and thats on a smooth road and no jerky movements whatsoever takes place.

 

[Ecoboosted]

So I went to order new nuts, and I found that Levittown Ford Parts shows CCPZ-3B477-G as being discontinued, though it's available for purchase on Tasca Parts and AutoNation WLB Parts. No clue why Levittown is showing as discontinued.

JR

I’ll be installing my Steeda LCA spherical bearings soon and picked up 2 retaining nuts from my local Ford dealer. The ones I got are CCPZ-3B477-G. They cost $14.98 a piece. Does that price sound right?

 

[moffetts]

They are surprisingly expensive, but I think they are less than 10 from tasca or any of the other online parts dealers.

 

[jacknifetoaswan]

I’ll bring installing my Steeda LCA spherical bearings soon and picked up 2 retaining nuts from my local Ford dealer. The ones I got are CCPZ-3B477-G. They cost $14.98 a piece. Does that price sound right?

Yeah. I paid like $11 each from my dealer about two weeks ago. I installed them with new GT350 axles and Timken hubs/bearings on Saturday, and it didn't fix the click from the rear end.

They are surprisingly expensive, but I think they are less than 10 from tasca or any of the other online parts dealers.

Plus $16 for shipping.

JR

 

[Blufc3s]

Checked my axle nuts after driving about 1200 miles. They had moved about 1/8” on both sides. I retorqued them, then double nutted them, putting on the original nuts with red loctite and torqued them to 100 ft lbs.

 

[Sleipner]

Well. strange noise as per video above dissapeared after they've cleaned and greased the splines on the half-shaft going in to the hub. My guess is that it'll come back soon but so far so good (2 days of driving). Rather tired of having the car in the shop 10 times since november and it's going back again for further nosies and issues in a couple of weeks.. Quality by Ford.

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