What’s more important, 301A or 3.55’s?

[Freedom]

wow thanks for your help. Think the dealer could just do the gear swap? I want this thing under warranty so might have to go the dealer route. If I could get out of there paying $1500 dealer installed I would do it.

Leaning towards 301A

Updated my post, confirmed you dont need to use a tool for speedo correction since the car uses wheel speed sensors.

Pricing here:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/cost-of-dealer-gear-install.125150/
So probably cheaper than what was posted there, since its supposed to be easier swapping a whole diff than doing gears?

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[Htk084]

Updated my post, confirmed you dont need to use a tool for speedo correction since the car uses wheel speed sensors.

Pricing here:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/cost-of-dealer-gear-install.125150/
So probably cheaper than what was posted there, since its supposed to be easier swapping a whole diff than doing gears?

I’d probably get the whole diff new from Ford and the install but it’s good to know the install shouldn’t be too much, the parts tho might be costly I gotta search how much that could cost

 

[Freedom]

I’d probably get the whole diff new from Ford and the install but it’s good to know the install shouldn’t be too much, the parts tho might be costly I gotta search how much that could cost

https://lmr.com/item/M400188355/2015-mustang-ford-racing-irs-loaded-differential-housing

 

[Mikepol2]

I've done both installs myself (differential and electronics), if what you are after are track apps and higher gears. If you're handy you can do them yourself and save the labor cost.

The electronics install for track apps is basically a Sync 3 upgrade and there are a million posts on how to do it. Buy the kit and follow the install video on the 4dtech website. The most intimidating part is downloading and using Forscan to make 3 or 4 programming tweaks to make the drive modes work.

The diff install is just a knuckle-dragging mechanical project. More mechanical skill needed but less thinking. A dealer is probably going to charge you for about 6 hours worth of labor, it's time consuming. You can see pics in my media album.

If I was trying to decide on which one I'd rather do, it would be buying the 301A car and adding the differential. You can buy a loaded 3.73 diff with a Torsen and installation process is the same as a 3.55 diff, and get better acceleration and handling that way. And buying the 301A car gets you the other goodies that you don't get with just the Sync 3 upgrade.

 

[Zinc03svt]

301a gives you Sync 3, larger screen, and drag mode w/ toggles. Not even a fair comparison imo $ wise. I choose pp1 over 301a as my consideration. Getting drag mode on 300a car was only $450 tune/tuner. ;).

 

[I Bleed Ford Blue]

Get the 301A car, you can always just upgrade the gears to whatever you want, you don't have to stay with 3.55's, you can get 3.73's, 4.09's or 4.30's, like others have said it will be easier and cheaper to just throw in gears of your choice than to upgrade all the electronics to match what a 301A car has.

 

[Htk084]

Thanks guys y’all are awesome. Think it will be the 301A. Then maybe down the road it sounds like $1000 for new gear + $500-700 for install. Can’t do it myself. Not too too bad that’s like the price of a catback.


I can change gear, impossible to get drag mode though on a 300a and stay under warranty

 

[Spykexx]

Honestly, as many others said, screw dealing with electronics aftermarket. I'll take doing a diff swap anyday over ripping apart a dashboard.

Get the 301A, and put in a 3.73 if it were me. 3.55 are pretty average, whereas the 3.73's are definitely nice. I was looking for a PP and 3.73's, but came across a better deal for Premium/AE/NAV/etc. Can do gears pretty cheap compared to electronics.

(If you got the 3.55's you'd probably end up wanting the 3.73's anyways haha)

 

[Balr14]

Another vote for 301A. My previous car was all about performance, no extra features at all, very old school. Wow, what a difference! The 301A package with the A10 is incredibly entertaining.

 

[opengl]

a used 3.55 whole unit costs $250-600+ship on ebay right now. Honestly cant tell you the install time/rate of the job itself (someone suggested 3-4 hours).

As for the 301a upgrade path: sync 3 with carplay costs $700 from hellhorse BUT that doesnt include heated/cooled seats, dual zone climate, interior lighting, speakers.

Heated/cooled seats are 400A/401A (Premium), not 301A.

 

[13GetThere]

Tough call here. Just looking at the build and price site, the 3:55 gears for the 300 is less than a thousand dollar option with the A10. If you get the 301A package with the A10, and then add the 3:55's it's another $15,000. If you want the 301A package with the A10, and you're only going to drag race a couple of times a year, I'd go that route and forget the gears. With the A10 you might be perfectly happy with 3:15's that come in it.

 

[StangTime]

301A option for sure. Do the gears later. 301A gives you so much more than a base model. You don't always get NAV with this option (that's an extra cost) but you can use Android Auto or Apple car play for nav. You need those drive mode toggles I tell you. Plus you get mycolor ambient lighting effects with the 301A which is nearly impossible to install after the fact.

 

[Htk084]

Something no one mentioned yet- what about drag mode vs 3.55? That’s what I’m really talkin here. I’m only getting 301A for the drag mode. Thanks

 

[I Bleed Ford Blue]

I believe it was mentioned already that you can not add drag mode to a 300A, you can add in everything else but not drag mode. Same goes for a 400A vs a 401A.

So given that bit of info it seems your only option is to buy a 301A or 401A car and swap in the gears you want.

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