OP
OP
Tiago G.
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 25, 2016
- Threads
- 9
- Messages
- 165
- Reaction score
- 54
- Location
- Reel North
- Vehicle(s)
- 2019 mustang GT
- Thread starter
- #31
It's funny the more you talk to people involved with the coyote world the more you hear about these horrible crankshaft stories in higher HP cars.I also broke the crank of my MMR 1500 sleeved 5.2 block with a Hellion TT @1000 whp.
I was able to save the sleeved block /I beam rods .
I had it rebuilt by L&M and converted to use 12 mm head studs .
The pistons did not look too bad but were trashed as L&M said the wrong rings were used from the get go and had worn grooves in the piston so even with the right rings it would be blowing oil .
I am excited as you are, as I have been contemplating a similar stroker build with the Predator block to make 5.4 L.(330 Ci) . Please make a build thread as I will be following closely for your review . If you like it I may build one too .
So are the Ross pistons specific for “stroker”
What makes them specific for the stroker ?
BES built me a sleeved 5.2 short block a few years ago with custom Ross pistons/Manley H rods . I had assembled a long block with block/GT 350 heads /ford racing cams and finally have it in a car (3.2 KB with 8 rib ). Did not make it past initial logs due to oiling issues . My fault though as I had used the wrong oil restrictors for the GT pump . Had to pull the motor and hoping the cams are not trashed but only ran for few 100 miles so I have my finger crossed.
As you may have not iced I am one of those guys who can break anything ,like some one once said “even a “ball bearing in a rubber factory “ .. so I am now obsessed with spare engines . Lol
I know I have had my share of bad luck but I don’t believe there is any such thing as a “billet proof” block especially at the power level you are planning .
Ross pistons in the BES block .
saved block / rods and L&M rebuilt block
The issue is not really related to Centrifugal superchargers or P.D. blowers only as many people may thing because the same thing seems to be happening to turbo cars between 1K to 1300 RWHP using the OEM crank it just fails at some point. I don't know WTH it is causing that if its too much RPM or whatever but is happening since the 1st gen coyote came out.
I think that my Callies Crank choice is a good one step above stock option and achieve my HP goals with this thing. I don't want to spin my engine over 7500 rpm anyways in this build even though some are spinning these things to the moon, I won't, especially with the longer stroke it will be making. i would love to go with a Bryant Crank but the almost 5K price per unit, turnaround and 1500+ HP are things I'm not looking for this build. I also have 0 intentions of O-ringing the block.
I was reading about your stroker plans before I even knew that Callies was offering the 3.8" and 3.9" cranks and found out to be very interesting that we could achieve the extra cubes especially with these blocks. If a new crank is going to be ordered, why not take full advantage of the whole rotating assembly being upgraded and also build up a capable bigger engine? To me it was a no brainer.
I'm not sure about the Ross pistons dimensions except that they are not an off the shelf set for the coyote and they will be a 3.7" bore and 12:1 compression. Also, the rods needed to be different and they told me that the Turbo Tough Rods are not available to be purchased for this Bore/ Stroke configuration of the coyote, only the Manley pro series are at this time.
So, I'm curious and excited to see what this build is going to result ( yours too ), not only in numbers but drivability, tunability, fuel systems, and the most important thing to me which is the longevity and reliability.
My car will be driven to and from the track and will be a 110% full street car. i'm not looking to beat records or anything just want to have my fun and be able to crank it up without scratching my head in fear or knowing a lot could go wrong if I did that. As the weak links are being taken out of the equation slowly and being replaced with better, more expensive and much more reliable parts inside and outside the engine, etc,, I will finally be able to enjoy the T.T. kit but not at OEM type of boost 5-10 psi but at big boy boost level which I hope it will be enough for me and not even more addictive than this whole thing has become during my many many years in this hobby. LOL.
I even thought about a GT500 but what's the point of buying a car that starts at 80k+ that will result similar #'s to a boosted 5.0 and on top of that the transmission is a HUGE and $$$ ??? Besides that, if you want to make big power in a new GT500 it will still need its engine build anyways, so whats the point,? saying i own a shelby.. lmao.. I wanna go fast and a GT is perfect for that already.
I'm letting the best in America build and tune this setup as I am ready to live with the results. I'm pretty positive and confident we are steering towards the right direction with this build. Yes, things could go wrong, and yes, I do know there are too many variables when it comes to building a boosted application even in this day and age but at the same time I'm making sure that we are doing everything we can in our power to minimize those risks by letting them build and tune this thing with the best parts and building the car like a whole unit as one thing leads to another as usual. No cutting corners or BS, taking chances to save 1-2K like boosting the car with OEM crank sprocket for example, or not upgrading valve springs, or I trying to do something I don't know or am not too sure how ( no poke to you or anyone) on something of this magnitude, blah blah blah. This thing will get the best of the best and again, I will live with the results whatever they are knowing we all tried out our very best.
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