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Who will swap for the new 7.3 V8!

millhouse

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tokuzumi

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Yet it'll be harder and more expensive and will get destroyed by an aluminum LS. If you're being reasonable, the only reason to do this over an LS swap in a fox is because it has a Ford logo on it.
I'm in line with this as well. The 7.3L will be an overall low volume engine. Especially when compared to quantity of V8s that were installed between the fenders of GM trucks and cars. It will be very easy to only be a few thousand dollars into securing an LS engine with wiring harness and ECM, along with some basic engine work depending on application (boosted, NA, etc).

Only way to get a 7.3L right now is to order one from Ford, and then buy parts or a shop's labor to adapt the engine to whatever platform in which it's going to be installed.

The LS swap into everything didn't occur overnight, so over time, I do see more and more of these 7.3Ls popping up in other vehicles. But it's going to take a while before you start seeing people with budgets installing these in Fox bodies. And outside of some drag race team using a S550, I don't see someone buying a 2015+ and yanking out the drivetrain to install this until these cars become cheap and are in their 3rd or 4th owner.
 

Bikeman315

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Fatguy, where are you? Last post was mid June. This thread is your baby. Would love to hear your thoughts after 3298 posts.
 

millhouse

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I'm in line with this as well. The 7.3L will be an overall low volume engine. Especially when compared to quantity of V8s that were installed between the fenders of GM trucks and cars. It will be very easy to only be a few thousand dollars into securing an LS engine with wiring harness and ECM, along with some basic engine work depending on application (boosted, NA, etc).

Only way to get a 7.3L right now is to order one from Ford, and then buy parts or a shop's labor to adapt the engine to whatever platform in which it's going to be installed.

The LS swap into everything didn't occur overnight, so over time, I do see more and more of these 7.3Ls popping up in other vehicles. But it's going to take a while before you start seeing people with budgets installing these in Fox bodies. And outside of some drag race team using a S550, I don't see someone buying a 2015+ and yanking out the drivetrain to install this until these cars become cheap and are in their 3rd or 4th owner.
An LS is absolutely going to be cheaper....right now. In 5 years, that still could be the case, but I bet it would be closer. We're talking used pricing.

With that said, the 7.3L will be cheaper for any given amount of horsepower. Bigger, better flowing heads. Bigger bore. Bigger valves. Just far more potential.

In regards to computers and wiring harness, I wouldn't touch anything out of a vehicle and instead jump straight to a stand-alone self tuning computer system for ~ $1k. You eliminate the need for any computer flashing. They are easy to use, and easy to monitor.
 

Big Boss

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If you can't bolt on heads, "full bolt on" is a stupid name IMO. You should be able to bolt on anything that uses bolts, including cams, rotating assembly, suspension, new transmission, etc. And if a car is truly "FULL" bolt on, that would mean anything that can be removed with bolts has been upgraded. I really hate the term full bolt on.
To me I always considered bolt ons stuff you could do fairly quick, with basic hand tools and little to no experience turning wrenches.
 

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Hack

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To me I always considered bolt ons stuff you could do fairly quick, with basic hand tools and little to no experience turning wrenches.
To me then it isn't "full". I realize it's off topic to the 7.3 swap discussion, but FBO drives me absolutely bonkers. "Full" absolutely implies everything. If you only did nothing burger changes like a CAI, just say you did a CAI rather than using a vague phrase that sounds as though you might have made a change that impacts power significantly such as heads, cams, stroker kit, turbo, etc.
 

Big Boss

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To me then it isn't "full". I realize it's off topic to the 7.3 swap discussion, but FBO drives me absolutely bonkers. "Full" absolutely implies everything. If you only did nothing burger changes like a CAI, just say you did a CAI rather than using a vague phrase that sounds as though you might have made a change that impacts power significantly such as heads, cams, stroker kit, turbo, etc.
I agree, what I was commenting on was the debate over what some people consider bolt ons.
 

millhouse

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To me then it isn't "full". I realize it's off topic to the 7.3 swap discussion, but FBO drives me absolutely bonkers. "Full" absolutely implies everything. If you only did nothing burger changes like a CAI, just say you did a CAI rather than using a vague phrase that sounds as though you might have made a change that impacts power significantly such as heads, cams, stroker kit, turbo, etc.
A supercharger is pretty easy to bolt on.
 

tokuzumi

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FBO to me means leaving the long block, transmission, and differential intact.
 

bootlegger

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You may want to go back and read my original post. Notice I say $700 worth of parts?
A tuner/programmer is a required part for modification. Even without a tune, the units are $400.
 

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millhouse

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A tuner/programmer is a required part for modification. Even without a tune, the units are $400.
I've always this considered part of the tune, and this would be required for any vehicle or engine.

But again, I would go with a stand alone EFI managment for the 7.3L for any type of retrofitting.
 

bootlegger

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I've always this considered part of the tune, and this would be required for any vehicle or engine.

But again, I would go with a stand alone EFI managment for the 7.3L for any type of retrofitting.
Then you are talking more than $1000 for the equipment alone. Programmers are only required when modding.
 

millhouse

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Then you are talking more than $1000 for the equipment alone. Programmers are only required when modding.
Stand alone systems can be had for ~ $1000 or less...all wiring included. For any type of retrofitting, this is the way to go. Even LS1 stand alones cost more or less the same. All of these systems self learn...and there is no need for any dyno time or mail order tune costs.

This doesn't change engine costs though. And again, I'm not talking about taking out a coyote and swapping in a 7.3L.
 

bootlegger

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Stand alone systems can be had for ~ $1000 or less...all wiring included. For any type of retrofitting, this is the way to go. Even LS1 stand alones cost more or less the same. All of these systems self learn...and there is no need for any dyno time or mail order tune costs.

This doesn't change engine costs though. And again, I'm not talking about taking out a coyote and swapping in a 7.3L.
Swapping in a 7.3 for any application and adding bolt-on mods will require a programmer, if you don't go the standalone route.
In regards to the standalone (like the Holley unit), their self-learning leaves a lot to be desired. My friend has the Holley system on the twin turbo LSX he installed in his boat. It has never really run quite right, and is going to have to be tuned. If you want to really get the most out of those, you will need to hit a dyno. I would stick with a SCT or n-gauge if I wasn't fairly experienced in tuning.
 

millhouse

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Swapping in a 7.3 for any application and adding bolt-on mods will require a programmer, if you don't go the standalone route.
In regards to the standalone (like the Holley unit), their self-learning leaves a lot to be desired. My friend has the Holley system on the twin turbo LSX he installed in his boat. It has never really run quite right, and is going to have to be tuned. If you want to really get the most out of those, you will need to hit a dyno. I would stick with a SCT or n-gauge if I wasn't fairly experienced in tuning.
I have used self learning Fitech. It worked amazingly well. Stupid easy to set up. Stupid easy to learn. My 427 with a fairly lopey cam had no issues idling.

And no, you don't need to hit a dyno. WOT self learning can be done on the street or at the track. Tunes come in conservative. You input your engine size, cam size, N/A or FI and it throws in conservative tables....enough to get the engine started and running.

I've used these. I know others that have used these. They work very....very....very well. Holley's are setup very much the same way....almost scary close to the Fitech.

Those that have problems, they are nearly 100% of the time attributed to poor grounds, poor crank/cam pickup signals or vacuum leaks.
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