2020 Shelby GT350 Engine Failure

[JAJ]

Your front splitter center piece does not appear to be correctly installed.

Correct! Some dealer techs just don't read the instructions - they seem to think it's decorative and just snap it on. In this case it's not even snapped on correctly and chances are good it's missing most or even all of the screws that keep it on at high speed. That splitter will detach at about 100mph.

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[hafgod]

Should've bought a prius. All jokes aside dude I'd go for the dealer buyback, I know if I were to buy a car brand new and they were to replace the engine, I would leave the dealership somewhat weary.

 

[mattballislife]

I actually did a buyback on an engine tick issue that the dealer could not figure out. They had my car for over a month which checked the lemon law box here in California. The dealership took the engine apart etc.

what I had to do and what I got - I escalated my case with a regional rep who put me in touch with the RAV team.

the RAV team gave me a couple of options which differ a bit from cobrajets post.

1 - I could do a buyback. With a buyback you don’t get a full refund.

• If you got gap it comes pro rated
• There’s a formula they use to charge you for the mileage on the car
• You will not get your paint protection and window tint reimbursed by the RAV team.
• You get 100% of your down payment back
• Any interest accrued while you had the car and all payments will be paid back
• The RAV team will only pay you back the down payment + any payments you paid to the bank with interest minus the mileage cost formula.
• Gap will come from the dealer you purchased the car/gap from. The dealer will lose your paperwork the first time around and you’ll have to submit twice...(speaking from multiple gap refund experiences).
• Once you get an acceptance letter from the RAV team you’ll get a check in about 2 weeks but it will go to the dealer. They will also immediately pay off your loan.

2nd option - buy a car at the dealer instead of getting your money back.

• If it’s a gt350 and you got a great deal on it the dealer does not have to match that deal. If you got it at msrp and the dealer has it above msrp for the same exact car/options, they do not have to give it to you at msrp.
• I got my car from a different dealer than the one that fd it up and the one that fd it up did not care. They generally sell all their gt350s bullets etc for way over msrp and didn’t give two sh*ts about my buyback.

if you have to and the option is there, do the buyback. You will not get your paint protection and tinted windows covered just an FYI. I was also able to argue in a rental car only after they had the car for a couple of weeks. Be prepared to check in on things frequently.

My experience with Ford as a company with this whole process was a pretty good one to be honest. With the dealer...not the same story.

I was able to go up north and find an R afterward though...ha

if you have any questions feel free to shoot me a message.

 

[Cobra Jet]

I actually did a buyback on an engine tick issue that the dealer could not figure out. They had my car for over a month which checked the lemon law box here in California. The dealership took the engine apart etc.

what I had to do and what I got - I escalated my case with a regional rep who put me in touch with the RAV team.

the RAV team gave me a couple of options which differ a bit from cobrajets post.

1 - I could do a buyback. With a buyback you don’t get a full refund.

• If you got gap it comes pro rated
• There’s a formula they use to charge you for the mileage on the car
• You will not get your paint protection and window tint reimbursed by the RAV team.
• You get 100% of your down payment back
• Any interest accrued while you had the car and all payments will be paid back
• The RAV team will only pay you back the down payment + any payments you paid to the bank with interest minus the mileage cost formula.
• Gap will come from the dealer you purchased the car/gap from. The dealer will lose your paperwork the first time around and you’ll have to submit twice...(speaking from multiple gap refund experiences).
• Once you get an acceptance letter from the RAV team you’ll get a check in about 2 weeks but it will go to the dealer. They will also immediately pay off your loan.

2nd option - buy a car at the dealer instead of getting your money back.

• If it’s a gt350 and you got a great deal on it the dealer does not have to match that deal. If you got it at msrp and the dealer has it above msrp for the same exact car/options, they do not have to give it to you at msrp.
• I got my car from a different dealer than the one that fd it up and the one that fd it up did not care. They generally sell all their gt350s bullets etc for way over msrp and didn’t give two sh*ts about my buyback.

if you have to and the option is there, do the buyback. You will not get your paint protection and tinted windows covered just an FYI. I was also able to argue in a rental car only after they had the car for a couple of weeks. Be prepared to check in on things frequently.

My experience with Ford as a company with this whole process was a pretty good one to be honest. With the dealer...not the same story.

I was able to go up north and find an R afterward though...ha

if you have any questions feel free to shoot me a message.

Not to confuse the OP or anyone else for that matter, the RAV Buy Back gives the Vehicle Owner only (2) options to get out of a Lemon or problematic vehicle:

1) Refund
2) Swap of Collateral (replacement vehicle)

The quoted reply above, the first half is discussing IF a Vehicle Owner opts for a REFUND. The second half is discussing the Swap of Collateral.

There is no “Gap” or coverage by the Dealership of deltas when doing a Swap of Collateral.


———

The RAV “Acceptance” letter is issued to the Vehicle Owner after they have been through the Ford Regional CSR and the case is turned over to RAV. Once the Vehicle Owner agrees to go into the RAV Buy Back “program”, RAV sends out a FedEx that contains the RAV documents and the letter stipulating the Customer has entered into the RAV process regardless if they choose a complete Refund OR a Swap of Collateral (BOTH being referred to as the “Buy Back”).

The Customer must sign and send back a copy of the letter by the deadlines imposed on the documents. The Customer also must make sure they follow all RAV instructions such as supplying all necessary requested docs pertaining to the vehicle and vehicle ownership.

———

The Dealership is only the “Middle Man”.

Most of them have never dealt with any RAV Buy Backs and therefore have to rely on the Ford Warranty and Policy Manual that outlines the RAV Process (along with any other “how to deal with this or thats”). All Ford Franchises are supposed to follow and abide by that Policy Manual - and if they don’t understand the written process, then they themselves have to call and deal with the RAV Dept on the phone and “learn” along side the consumer...

The Dealership only facilitates the paperwork processes, establishing any cash or loan transactions, getting the new vehicle delivered to the Customer (IF the Customer elected a vehicle replacement) AND taking receipt of the existing collateral (the Lemon).

If the Customer is electing a Swap of Collateral, the Dealership will help the Customer to find another vehicle, RAV does not get involved in this part of the process. The Dealership and Customer have to work on locating another vehicle.

————

RAV is an internal Ford name and division, but is outsourced to Concentrix, a wholly-owned subsidiary of SYNNEX Corporation (NYSE: SNX).


———

Regarding the Collateral Swap option (vehicle replacement) of a RAV Buy Back - it’s strictly MSRP to MSRP. It does not matter what type of deal the owner was able to get on their original purchase. If MSRP was say (totally hypothetical figure) $50k, then the vehicle the Customer can pick can be any new Ford as long as the Window Sticker MSRP is $50k. If the Customer picks a vehicle where the MSRP is say (again totally hypothetical figure) $55k, then he/she is responsible for the $5k delta.

NOTE:
In the case of a Shelby, if the Customer paid MSRP+ADM markup, that most likely will get handled quite differently from a standard Ford vehicle purchase.

When doing a swap of collateral, Ford Incentives, Ford Cash, Ford A-X plans, Dealer Discounts, Military, student or other discounts do NOT apply at all. Again it’s MSRP to MSRP.

If the MSRP of the new collateral is higher, the Customer is also responsible for the delta in State Tax. So in the above basic example, the Customer would have to pay tax on the $5k, NOT the total MSRP.

As I posted previously, I have very detailed threads on this site that go into the RAV process much deeper with better examples of the breakout of costs, fees, deltas, etc. it would take me forever or days to retype or put everything back into this specific thread.

I also have a “Lemon” thread in the Issues-TSB sub-forum that has a boatload of valuable info too for Lemon issues (and folks have posted their Lemon’d VINs there too). That thread is invaluable to those who never went through the process or need to know more on what to expect etc.

No BS, the RAV process can be tedious, it can be frustrating but as I stated initially, IF the Customer can remain professional and retains all of the docs to support their claim, they can and will come out on top...

 

[Evil_E]

It's Tuesday. What's the diagnosis from the dealer OP? What failed and root cause?

 

[GT350Obsession]

It's Tuesday. What's the diagnosis from the dealer OP? What failed and root cause?

Very eager to know this, as well. My fingers are crossed for an electrical failure, such as the previously mentioned alternator or battery.

 

[GrabberBlue]

Call me a contrarian, but has anyone considered that the problem might be electrical and that the engine's actually fine? They can turn the engine over manually, so it's not actually seized. When the engine stops running and the starter can't turn it usually means that the battery hasn't been charging and it's dead.

I hope this turns out simpler than it sounds...

Interestingly enough when my first engine went it destroyed the battery which prevented myself and the dealer from firing it up again.

 

[GrabberBlue]

The biggest IF in the RAV/Lemon Buyback process is your state lemon law. If your state lemon law sucks then you are SOL. My state only uses "collateral charges" in the lemon law so Ford RAV takes liberty and claims only what is on the buyer's order when the vehicle was purchased will be refunded.

I am getting royally screwed through an attorney enacted RAV buyback. RAV is looking at the buyer's order total dollar amount and that is all I will be refunded. Will be taking a loss of ~10k in taxes (paid at registration) and interest that won't be reimbursed to me.

 

[overdrive714]

Hey everyone, I've posted an update to the ongoing engine issue journey I'm going through by editing the original post. Again I can't thank you all enough for sharing your insights and suggestions on how to deal with this problem. Again I hope no one ever has to go through this. Also with the buyback option you had been discussing about, I fear that I will lose out thousand of dollars from the exterior modifications I've done already (windows tint, paint protection film, etc.) as well the additional thousands of dollar I've saved by not having the pay sales tax for this vehicle! If I am able to do a straight trade like Cobra Jet had mentioned from my car to another similar model without having to pay sales tax on it, I'd be definitely open to that option.

 

[Shift]

Hey everyone, I've posted an update to the ongoing engine issue journey I'm going through by editing the original post. Again I can't thank you all enough for sharing your insights and suggestions on how to deal with this problem. Again I hope no one ever has to go through this. Also with the buyback option you had been discussing about, I fear that I will lose out thousand of dollars from the exterior modifications I've done already (windows tint, paint protection film, etc.) as well the additional thousands of dollar I've saved by not having the pay sales tax for this vehicle! If I am able to do a straight trade like Cobra Jet had mentioned from my car to another similar model without having to pay sales tax on it, I'd be definitely open to that option.

Buyback was a hail mary shot for me as I live in CA but bought the car in MA. Only the lemon laws of whichever state you bought it in applies. Even in the best scenario where they did allow a buyback, I'd lose out on the $4k I spent on clear bra and detail(something that now costs about $6k if I were to redo it today, so that'd be a total of $10k cost there), and I bought a base 2016 GT350, which MSRP'd @ $50k. New one that I'd buy MSRP's @ $65k. That's $15k on top I'd have to pay, plus the tax difference on top would be $1,500.

I paid $1,200 for a 8yr/60k mile $0 deductible premium care plan back in 2016. That same plan is now $3100. Maintenance plan was $1800, it's probably over $2k now.

After it's all said and done, I'd be out $30k just to get into a new Shelby even if I did a buyback. Safe to say I would not do a buyback for my situation even if they offered it after doing the math.

 

[RJay]

-One of her mechanics had informed her that the front splitter looks like it's installed correctly. Now if anyone can send me photos as to what the proper installation of the front splitter should look like, that'd be awesome!

Here is a great thread on splitter installation.

The first post even has a link to the Ford Training Video on the topic.

I would read the crap out of this thread, watch any videos, and then the next time you're down there you will be the expert!

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/check-your-splitter-install.43097/

 

[overdrive714]

The biggest IF in the RAV/Lemon Buyback process is your state lemon law. If your state lemon law sucks then you are SOL. My state only uses "collateral charges" in the lemon law so Ford RAV takes liberty and claims only what is on the buyer's order when the vehicle was purchased will be refunded.

I am getting royally screwed through an attorney enacted RAV buyback. RAV is looking at the buyer's order total dollar amount and that is all I will be refunded. Will be taking a loss of ~10k in taxes (paid at registration) and interest that won't be reimbursed to me.

Here is a great thread on splitter installation.

The first post even has a link to the Ford Training Video on the topic.

I would read the crap out of this thread, watch any videos, and then the next time you're down there you will be the expert!

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/check-your-splitter-install.43097/

Thank you for sharing this, I'll definitely familiarize myself the proper installation of the splitter so I can school the mechanic when I drop by the next time.

 

[Jimmy G]

The Voodoo has the engine builders signature on it, doesn't it? This is 100% a mechanical failure.

Just make sure your next one is built by someone else .

 

[That_Guy]

Definitely check into your state’s laws if you are serious about the buyback route. I was able to get a complete refund, including taxes, title and paint protection film. But I did have to get a lawyer. And it was not easy. But since they largely made me whole, I’m rolling the dice again on a 2020.

 

[shogun32]

The Voodoo has the engine builders signature on it, doesn't it? This is 100% a mechanical failure.
Just make sure your next one is built by someone else .

next we'll have a "black list" of engine builders. And sale refused if on the list...

More likely spun rod bearing. There are commonly 3 'sizes' of bearing shells. I wonder just how carefully they are measured and matched up to tolerances.

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