GT350R Springs for GT (high rate, minimum lowering)

[BmacIL]

Thank's. I'll give it a try. Even with jack stands I was getting a bit scared hitting the tires from under the car with a sledge. haha

I bought some anti-seize to help prevent this in the future. Sorry for all the questions and getting off topic everyone.

Best way is not from the inside. The wood should limit paint scratches. Let it swing to it like a pendulum.

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[2015Etrac]

Best way is not from the inside. The wood should limit paint scratches. Let it swing to it like a pendulum.

Oh ok, so hit it from the outside of the wheel? I kept thinking I needed to hit it from behind the wheel which makes it tough to get a good swing.

 

[Norm Peterson]

I ran into a snag today, apparently my SVE wheels are frozen to the PP rotors I installed this spring, I guess I should have used anti-seize.

I'm betting the problem is between the hub and the center hole or centering rings if your wheels use those, so if you're going to use anti-seize that's where it needs to go. No place else makes sense, and it'd be flat-out wrong to put anti-seize on either the wheel studs or anywhere on the lug nuts.

You may have to whack the tire, spin it half a revolution, and hit it again. Repeat as necessary.

I usually need to give the Forgestars one or two whacks (on the inside) with a rubber mallet, but hitting on the inside isn't all that difficult.


Norm

 

[BmacIL]

I'm betting the problem is between the hub and the center hole or centering rings if your wheels use those, so if you're going to use anti-seize that's where it needs to go. No place else makes sense, and it'd be flat-out wrong to put anti-seize on either the wheel studs or anywhere on the lug nuts.

You may have to whack the tire, spin it half a revolution, and hit it again. Repeat as necessary.


Norm

Rotor hub face (but careful not to put any on the studs) helps a lot too. Even though you're not getting rust there, there's at least some kind reaction there (could be galvanic?)

 

[shogun32]

Yeah I need to go fetch me some vacuum caps. @SteedaTech why not include them with the shocks? My 'Actives' came with a cap but not the 'Actions'

 

[2015Etrac]

I'm betting the problem is between the hub and the center hole or centering rings if your wheels use those, so if you're going to use anti-seize that's where it needs to go. No place else makes sense, and it'd be flat-out wrong to put anti-seize on either the wheel studs or anywhere on the lug nuts.

You may have to whack the tire, spin it half a revolution, and hit it again. Repeat as necessary.

I usually need to give the Forgestars one or two whacks (on the inside) with a rubber mallet, but hitting on the inside isn't all that difficult.


Norm

Yeah, I plan to put some anti-seize on the back of the wheels where it sits on the hub and around the center hole. I think it has to do with an aluminum wheel and steel hub. If I had money it seems like the easiest way would be to buy some nice 2 piece rotors but I think this should help. I finally got the wheels off today after a bunch of driving back and forth and stopping quickly in the driveway and kicking the wheels. haha

 

[2015Etrac]

Great Idea, I need to do that. Unfortunately mine are already rusted bad but maybe I can hit them with some WD-40, clean them up some, and put some caps on them. Nice idea with the gauge too. So both front and rear shocks are 2.5 turns to full stiff?

 

[2015Etrac]

Rotor hub face (but careful not to put any on the studs) helps a lot too. Even though you're not getting rust there, there's at least some kind reaction there (could be galvanic?)

I'm actually getting some rust on the rotor hub face where the wheel sites. I hit it with a wire brush while they were off. I'll probably clean them up some more before adding anti-seize when I switch back to my A/S wheels after the track day. I bought some Loctite Silver Grade anti-seize which seems like it should do the job.

 

[shogun32]

So both front and rear shocks are 2.5 turns to full stiff?

I just measured mine. I got 9 quarters (2.25 turns) from one mechanical limit to the other, on both front and rears. I set them to 5 quarters back from fully closed because that's how you measure such things - count backwards from needle seated.

In the automotive world CCW = closed, unlike in pretty much every other application.

 

[Norm Peterson]

So both front and rear shocks are 2.5 turns to full stiff?

Probably closer to 2.25 turns. Not a good idea to force them too far no matter what you're using to turn the adjusting screws with.

I use full soft as my index when making or changing settings and dial up.


Norm

 

[Chief_GT]

Norm or BmacIL any thoughts from my previous question?

I’ve read through the whole thread. Lots of great information.

I have a 2016 GT/PP completely stock. This isn’t an everyday car so ride harshness doesn’t bother me. The car is a weekend/ nice day cruiser with a few track days and auto cross events a year. I don’t want the car to be slammed but slightly lower and a little stiffer. I was thinking if the following but would like some input.

GT350 Front Struts
GT350 R Springs
PP Rear Shocks
BMR SP082 Springs
Rear billet shock mount since I would be right there anyways.

Upon reading it seems the stock PP sway bars are plenty when paired with stiffer springs/ shocks and wider stickier tires.

 

[BmacIL]

Norm or BmacIL any thoughts from my previous question?

I’ve read through the whole thread. Lots of great information.

I have a 2016 GT/PP completely stock. This isn’t an everyday car so ride harshness doesn’t bother me. The car is a weekend/ nice day cruiser with a few track days and auto cross events a year. I don’t want the car to be slammed but slightly lower and a little stiffer. I was thinking if the following but would like some input.

GT350 Front Struts
GT350 R Springs
PP Rear Shocks
BMR SP082 Springs
Rear billet shock mount since I would be right there anyways.

Upon reading it seems the stock PP sway bars are plenty when paired with stiffer springs/ shocks and wider stickier tires.

I would not do the PP / 082 combo with the R fronts and GT350 struts. Do the GT350R springs all around and the Ford Performance Track dampers or Bilstein B6 dampers, or swap GT350R springs for BMR SP083 springs and same dampers.

There's a lot more information gained outside of this thread. I'd strongly consider a bigger front bar to pair with the setup, but yes the pp rear is plenty.

 

[2015Etrac]

I just measured mine. I got 9 quarters (2.25 turns) from one mechanical limit to the other, on both front and rears. I set them to 5 quarters back from fully closed because that's how you measure such things - count backwards from needle seated.

In the automotive world CCW = closed, unlike in pretty much every other application.

Appreciate it. Thanks.

 

[Chief_GT]

I would not do the PP / 082 combo with the R fronts and GT350 struts. Do the GT350R springs all around and the Ford Performance Track dampers or Bilstein B6 dampers, or swap GT350R springs for BMR SP083 springs and same dampers.

There's a lot more information gained outside of this thread. I'd strongly consider a bigger front bar to pair with the setup, but yes the pp rear is plenty.

if keeping the PP struts/shocks which springs would you pair with them for mild drop better performance? I’ll look into a stiffer front bar as well.

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