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How to reduce too high Cylinder Head Temperature on race track?

Nuked

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You could drain out some coolant and just add distilled water back in. Just make sure to do a 50\50 flush before winter.
When you install the 170 thermostat you will lose some coolant. Just top it back off with distilled water as said above. Check it after full to make sure it is good to a minimum temperature for your climate. Tune can be adjusted to better maximize the lower temp thermostat as well.
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Burkey

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Euro spec cars run the retarded lower grille like we get in Australia right? Eg. The less vented version.
Maybe get rid of that for a start, get some air into the engine bay.
As other have said, pull the rubber strip off the base of the hood too.
 

3star2nr

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I'm actually surprised the engines overheating and not the rear diff...

These cars really are just high performance street cars. When you start driving them like a man they need some help.
 

BmacIL

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I think it is just a base suspension GT non perf pack car.
It's not. It's an EU GT, which gets the PP1 but does not have the center gauges and gets a 3.55 torsen instead of 3.73 when had with the manual.
 

BigBlue

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It's not. It's an EU GT, which gets the PP1 but does not have the center gauges and gets a 3.55 torsen instead of 3.73 when had with the manual.
Could also be the cat overtemp protection combined with cyl head temps.
 

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BmacIL

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Could also be the cat overtemp protection combined with cyl head temps.
I am still leaning towards air in the cooling system.
 

Flyhalf

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I'm installing and testing a water cool spray on my 2018 gt coolers and radiator.
The car does overheats.
I regularly track my car.
I'll keep you posted on results.
First tests seem encourage. Unfortunately i can't upload videos here.
Screenshot_2019-09-28-18-23-14.png
 

Cobra Jet

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OP, just an FYI - I know yours is a 2018, but the 2019 F150 and Mustang 5.0’s had issues with CHT sensors prematurely failing.

See this link for the TSB I had posted quite a bit ago:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/tsb-19-2049-cht-mil-dtc’s-p1289-or-p017d.120216/

It could be something as simple that your CHT is failing and creating a situation where it looks like the temp is excessive “too soon”. It’s always best to be cautious as you are, but just wanted to pass along the TSB info so you can check to see if replacing the CHT helps.
 

AZ18yote

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Is e85 an option where you are? Should help run cooler.
 

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EFI

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Big ass radiator, big ass oil cooler, open grill, hood vents.

That should keep you in the low 200s all day long.
 

CrashOverride

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Unless the 18+ are different, I am fairly positive the oil temps are inferred, so whatever cooling mods you do to affect the oil temperatures, won't be reflected properly on the oil temp "gauge". I don't think a lower temp thermostat will do much of anything, you will be above the normal opening temp a few turns into the track and stay there the entire time. A better fan won't work in this case either. You simply need to move more air across the radiator and exhaust more heat from the engine compartment. I would get a bigger and more efficient radiator, make sure to duct the air into the radiator and not allow it to bypass it. Also, you may want to vent your hood so the air can be sucked out. To do it properly, you would need to know where the low pressure zone is on the hood to exhaust the air. You could also try to rig up brake cooler ductwork because the heat from your rotors isn't going to help the underhood temps.

Oh how I am jealous that you can go to the ring. I'm with the others though, that the dice have nowhere on a track. There shouldn't be anything in the car but you, and you should be wearing a helmet. If for nothing else than to make sure that you don't get distracted and run into someone else who is running all of the safety gear. On the flip side ++ for your Fraulein to be willing to macht schnell!

Meine deutsch ist sheiss. I had 2 years of deutsch instruction over 30 years ago, and I can no longer even form comprehensible sentences :frown:

You may also want to look into meth injection, it does have a cooling effect associated with it. Just leave your tune as is though, don't advance the timing because of the meth, just enjoy the added cooling because of it. Props for driving a US pony car over there. I can't imagine how expensive it would be with taxes and the inherent fuel consumption/engine size costs associated with owning one.
 
OP
OP

audioslave

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Thanks for all the input! :clap:

My mods now:

Mishimoto Ford Mustang GT Performance Aluminium Radiator
Thermostat 170° F
Oil Cooler (with housing)
removed the under hood liner


for the diff:
exhaust wrap
75W-140


And still, half lap on the Nordschleife and cylinderheadtemperature at 120° and lass of power. :explode: Once I also got too high diff temperatures, but the cylinderheadtemperature is more a problem.

I can see the Mustang has a stock electric fan. I have never heard it working, is this normal? Under what circumstances the stock electric fan should be working? In my former cars it was really loud if the fan starts running.
As the mods cost me a lot of money, I'm kind of disapointed and not shure if I should continue to improve the temperature... I know there are still some things to change you have mentioned, but I'm not shure if this really helps and I don't want to burn any more money because of this.


At least even with loss of power and early rev limiter at the second half of the track, I was able to go under 8 minutes (with helmet :captain::angel:)

 

Andrewg

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Thanks for all the input! :clap:

My mods now:

Mishimoto Ford Mustang GT Performance Aluminium Radiator
Thermostat 170° F
Oil Cooler (with housing)
removed the under hood liner

for the diff:
exhaust wrap
75W-140

I get the feeling you might be leaving something on the table by not having a tune optimised for your thermostat but more importantly the prolonged run time under heavy load.
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