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Some observations fighting IAT's with JLT CAI

Bluemustang

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That is exactly what I am getting next, the Velossa Tech Big Mouth. I already have Cervinis upper/lower grilles so I have plenty of air flow into the inlet. I just need something to stop radiator backwash. Just wish I knew about it before I installed the grilles because I will have to pull the bumper again.
Excellent. Please report your findings. I am doing the Velossa tech as soon as I man up and remove the bumper again lol. It was removed for my APR splitter and one or two of plastic clips broke... So I bought quik latch connectors for when I go to do it - I can line up the bumper gap.
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bootlegger

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If people made the decision to buy an aftermarket CAI system based on flow and air temps, the aftermarket companies would be out of business in short order.
Let's not get too crazy here. While intakes like the JLT do get hot sitting at idle in summer, there is absolutely no doubt that they flow much better than the stock system.
 

cib24

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Does the stock system really flow all that bad though?
 

Zinc03svt

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I think the advantage is minimal in the warmer months. I ran a JLT cobra jet on my 14. There are ways to improve flow on the stock system. Deleting carbon trap, opening up grill area, and dry flow filter all helped via my logged maf counts. ;).
 

AZ18yote

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bootlegger

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Does the stock system really flow all that bad though?
It's not that they flow poorly, just that they could flow better. The cone filter and larger diameter piping/MAF area do make a difference in the right conditions. The only real downside is heat. Personally, I will never likely be a drag racer, so having the fastest launch isn't my goal.
 

cib24

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I just think on a N/A car things like intake and even headers aren't really needed given the power you can make from a quality remap and 93 or E85 (if you have it). You have a lot more to gain from modifying the gearing to 4.09s, 4.30s or 4.56s and upgrading the associated suspension and drivetrain for drag race or road course use as you see fit.

Now, if you are going to add a blower then of course the bolt-on mods make sense so you would certainly want to add an intake, headers, mid pipe, whatever to make the most power. Having said that however, these cars make shit loads of power with just a blower and nothing else anyway so I'm not even sure you need the bolt-ons, as at such a high power level the better driver with 700hp is going to beat the guy with 800hp that can't launch or shift anyway.

If you care about bragging in the pub about your car's dyno horsepower and theoretical performance which you can't even legally use on the road, then I guess add everything and sleep better at night knowing your car is potentially faster than someone elses. .
 

bootlegger

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I just think on a N/A car things like intake and even headers aren't really needed given the power you can make from a quality remap and 93 or E85 (if you have it). You have a lot more to gain from modifying the gearing to 4.09s, 4.30s or 4.56s and upgrading the associated suspension and drivetrain for drag race or road course use as you see fit.

Now, if you are going to add a blower then of course the bolt-on mods make sense so you would certainly want to add an intake, headers, mid pipe, whatever to make the most power. Having said that however, these cars make shit loads of power with just a blower and nothing else anyway so I'm not even sure you need the bolt-ons, as at such a high power level the better driver with 700hp is going to beat the guy with 800hp that can't launch or shift anyway.

If you care about bragging in the pub about your car's dyno horsepower and theoretical performance which you can't even legally use on the road, then I guess add everything and sleep better at night knowing your car is potentially faster than someone elses. .
I would never want 4.09s or higher in this car. Traction down low is already limited. Since catless headers are worth 20+whp, I would say they are well worth doing. Intakes are more for engine bay clean-up, better sound, and slight power gain. Blowers are not the best mod for road course work, given the propensity for these cars to overheat.
 

cib24

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Fair enough. In the UK we are stuck with 3.55s and the gears suck as they are too long. Catless headers are illegal in many places, so not interesting to several people around the world and in States that have real emissions laws (I am aware that several US States simply don't care about pollution), and thus the gains provided by header solutions don't make any sense as changing out the stock mid pipe resonator gives you about 10 of that 20 hp anyway without touching the stock catted headers.

Agree with you on the blower point but others drag race or simply want to be the "cool" guy at the pub that can claim big hp. If you really want big power for those few moments on the street or strip that you can floor it for 5-10 seconds and not get in trouble, then Nitrous is simpler and switchable.
 

Bluemustang

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Let's not get too crazy here. While intakes like the JLT do get hot sitting at idle in summer, there is absolutely no doubt that they flow much better than the stock system.
Absolutely. I've proved that to myself over my datalogs. The most I saw with the stock 15 intake was 42 lbs/min, 45 with the JLT intake. After the ported 18 manifold, 49.5.

I am sure the stock 18 intake flows more because it has a larger diameter than the 15 one does. But let's not kid ourselves - The aftermarket intakes exist to flow more air. And generally speaking more airflow = more fuel = bigger bang, more power (up to a point). According to things I've read - this is usually limited by the volumetric efficiency of the engine.
 

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BmacIL

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Absolutely. I've proved that to myself over my datalogs. The most I saw with the stock 15 intake was 42 lbs/min, 45 with the JLT intake. After the ported 18 manifold, 49.5.

I am sure the stock 18 intake flows more because it has a larger diameter than the 15 one does. But let's not kid ourselves - The aftermarket intakes exist to flow more air. And generally speaking more airflow = more fuel = bigger bang, more power (up to a point). According to things I've read - this is usually limited by the volumetric efficiency of the engine.
Engines are air pumps that happen to burn fuel to do mechanical work. The more air they can pull and push through, the more power they make.
 

BmacIL

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Zinc03svt

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I went from 47-48 lb per minute on stock box filter to 51.27 maf counts with stock box mods stated above. Data...
 

cib24

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That's great that the MAF reads higher but it sounds like a pub brag to your mates. Who really cares about such a small difference on a N/A car? You won't feel 5, 10 or even 15 and arguably 20 hp in a nearly 4,000 lb car.

Anyway, striving for more efficiency with a better air box is definitely a good idea, but not at the cost the JLT or any other maker wants to charge you. In that case, the stock box is fine and put the $350-500 towards gears for more effective acceleration.
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