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Procharger Stage 2 Help With Knock

ahl395

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I too would recommend an aftermarket tune. The Procharger tune usually isnt stellar. I recommend Lund or PBD.

Otherwise, false knock can be a real issue. First thing to check is the AC line going near the intake tube to the throttle body. Make sure it's bent far enough out of the way or wrap it with something so its not metal/metal contact if it touches the pipe when the motor torques. I would check there first if you say the exhaust is stock.

Your MAF should be reading much higher but it could be something off in the tune. It's not possible to install it incorrectly in the intercooler. What pulley are you running and have you checked with a boost gauge other than the boost box (which have been known to have accuracy problems in the past)
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markmurfie

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Unless Procharger is doing some really dumb crap in their tune, I doubt they are, you are not going to nearly double airflow with the tune. Adding the missing 8* of timing isn't going to double your airflow either.

This really seems like hardware is installed wrong, or something is broken.
 

Crackerjack17

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Small leak somehwere? I wouldnt focus on a psi #. There are so many variables between setup's, weather, etc and the gauges that read it. Almost as bad as dyno #'s. You get a smaller pulley, its gonna flow more CFM. More air, more fuel, more power. The psi # is a variable, but not the only variable. What's the air temps when you did your logs?
 

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1- 14 psi is pushing the limits of the stock motor, and it won't likely live very long if your pushing it that hard.
2- wait until the tuning process is complete, ignition timing has a lot to do with power and torque delivery.
3- E85 and boost with these cars REALLY wakes them up. Especially mid range torque.
4- the P1SC on these motors is likely close to maxed out at 14 psi ( at Max blower speed) depending on flow mods.
 

80FoxCoupe

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Figured I'd post a little update. Wound up getting a remote tune and ALL the little drivability quirks are now gone, no more weird idle revs to 1500 for no reason when the car is in neutral, and slow driving around parking lots and such is much better. Very happy about that. Knock issue appears to be gone now as well after a couple revisions. Interestingly enough - my MAF lb/min went up but it's still not in the 80's+, however I am getting like 65-70 by about 7000-7200rpm.

I think my expectations for how the PC would behave were apparently way off, 3rd gear doesn't even spin my tires and I'm still on stock 255 Kumho's. Currently looking to pulley down a bit on the blower, but also not wanting to go bananas since the motor is stock. Anybody have any info on how much boost the various pullies will produce on a stage 2 system with a p1sc? I'm currently leaning towards a 4.38 or 4.25, but finding concrete information is difficult to come by. I've seem some posts on here saying 3.85 gets people 14psi by 7k, and others saying they needed 4.25.
What pulley is on it now?
 

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SheepDog

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Ok so you recommend to not go smaller pulley?

Tuning is done, everything looks good in my last 2 logs.

Unfortunately e85 is a scarcity in my area, and that would also require me to invest in a big boy fuel system - I don't think I'm ready for that.

That's kinda what I had read, but thought that was with a 3.85 pulley, so I figured I'd step down a tad to something like a 4.25 just to get a little more oomph. Unfortunately it doesn't sound like that's really even worth while or recommended...I might have to change power adder teams next year, unless somebody wants to take this PC off my hands right now lol.
I recommend driving it as is until you can do a fuel system, then you can crank up the boost a little. What is you elevation? What rear end gearing do you have? At 12 psi, and sea level you should being seeing somewhere around 700whp. Of course that can go 50 hp either way depending on a million other factors. If you trust that your tuning is spot on, and there are no mechanical problems, leaks, etc, then it should be pretty darn fast.
 

SheepDog

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673’ for altitude. Car has 95# DW injectors and a JMS - those aren’t good enough for a smaller pulley? From my searches that could take me to 800whp roughly. 3.31 rear end.

I do need to get some actual numbers, either from a local dyno or a draggy or something. I should be able to do that in the next couple weeks.
I meant that if you wanted to "safely" run at 14 PSI, you should probably have a return system. I think 800 WHP on a P-1SC is pretty much maxing it out on pump gas, .
 

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You can always do a wastegate setup. Good luck sir, I bet if you put it on a Dyno you will be happy with the results.
 

SheepDog

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I’ve considered that, best of both worlds from a centri and pd blower. That said it’d require custom fab that I can’t do. It might be something Ill upgrade to next year. I was just looking to get a bit more torque earlier on simply and cheaply right now.

Only downside about a WG setup is wouldn’t it require more belt tension hence more pressure on the crank?

I’m not so much concerned about what the dyno says and more how the car feels.
get a Griptec pulley. Then you wont need to crank down on the belt so hard to prevent slip
 

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SheepDog

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You will definitely need a retune dropping that many sizes of pulley if your current one is 4.75.
 

ahl395

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A 3.9" will just about max out a P1SC and make around 14psi.

If you're on 93 the most you'll want to safely run is usually about 12psi. I too vote for the 4.25". On the current pulley you're probably seeing like 8psi which explains why you're underwhelmed.

I'm all for wastegating personally. It really wakes up the midrange. You could pulley down to 3.9" and wastegate to 12psi. Same overall boost but you'd get into it a little quicker. I don't tension my belt much tighter on my gated setup than I did beforehand. It can put more stress on the belt/blower/crank but I've been 40k miles so far without issue. Made an incredible difference in my car, you can check my build log for more info on my setup. The difference would be less drastic on a P1SC but definitely still noticeable.
 

ahl395

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Ok I’ll probably pick up a 4.25 and go from there for the remainder of this year. I see about 9psi MAX by 7k, and maybe 10 by 7200.

I have seen you’re build, that’s what started me on the road to thinking about it. I’ll have to go check it again. Just sucks there’s no “kit” for it, have to have somebody local set it up custom.

What do you do for the belt slip? You run a gates pulley or just able to size everything appropriately? Are you on the stage 2 8 rib setup?

Thanks for the input!
Yes it's the 8 rib setup so belt slip isn't an issue. I run a Gates HD green belt but I ran an AutoZone belt in the past too lol. The stage 2 tensioner is stout. I tighten it so I can just about twist the belt 90 degrees at it's longest stretch, which is generally the standard for belt tension. No belt slip issues even when wastegating from 20+ psi to 12.
 

ahl395

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This is interesting...your blower bracket looks different than mine even though we’re both running the stage 2. Did the design change in the past 2 years?
483DB153-FB09-4A2C-A918-8AAC114314A6.jpeg
I have never seen that before.... Maybe someone else can shed some light on that.

I assume it's a new tensioner design?
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