Made 471whp with PBD E85 tune, JLT Intake and Texas Speed headers/xpipe (catted)

[Deleted member 33561]

Thanks. It's already on order. By the way my comment about SAE HP is all theory of course. Some shops seem to manipulate the numbers to make customers happy.

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[Notagain]

Dynos a tool nothing more.

Any stock dyno numbers by any chance?

Id care way more about the gains stock to more vs anything the youtube blowhards claim.............

 

[Sammy123]

No stock dyno numbers.

Next week I will do some quarter mile testing on the street with NT05Rs. Bought a dragy to get accurate numbers.

 

[Sammy123]

So I got my dragy and NT05Rs. 11.78 @ 122 was best I could do on the street.

What's bothering me is that I have to run with traction control fully off even with NT05Rs. With TC/Advancetrac set to Sport the car will pull power at around 80mph for some reason. Makes no sense, I'm not spinning at that speed and especially not N/A with NT05Rs. Shifts are really hard though, annoyingly hard for daily driving.

 

[Myshelby3425]

So I got my dragy and NT05Rs. 11.78 @ 122 was best I could do on the street.

What's bothering me is that I have to run with traction control fully off even with NT05Rs. With TC/Advancetrac set to Sport the car will pull power at around 80mph for some reason. Makes no sense, I'm not spinning at that speed and especially not N/A with NT05Rs. Shifts are really hard though, annoyingly hard for daily driving.

I get that pull of power too at times. Shifts are hard in sport for the PBD tune pretty much like drag mode. Normal and D is where is need to be to daily for me.

What do u use to measure time?

 

[Sammy123]

I get that pull of power too at times. Shifts are hard in sport for the PBD tune pretty much like drag mode. Normal and D is where is need to be to daily for me.

What do u use to measure time?

For me there's no difference in shifts between Sport and D, they both shift hard. S just holds the RPM longer. Are you saying they were able to tune the S mode for hard shifts while leaving D mode relatively stock like as far as shifting?

 

[armykyle1 [HACKED ACCOUNT]

I have PBD as well but my shifts are pretty normal. Unless I'm pushing on the car.

 

[Myshelby3425]

For me there's no difference in shifts between Sport and D, they both shift hard. S just holds the RPM longer. Are you saying they were able to tune the S mode for hard shifts while leaving D mode relatively stock like as far as shifting?

Yes. I don’t believe they touch the shift firmness in Normal mode. Make sure that your in normal mode when in D if not let your tuner know.

 

[Sammy123]

I talked to Trevor at PBD and this is as good as it's gonna get, no more revisions needed.

So with JLT intake, Texas speed headers and xpipe (high flow cats), straight E85 tune and full weight (including full tank of E85 that tested 88% ethanol), and 305 NT05Rs drag radials on stock 19x9.5 wheels I did 11.78 @ 122 on the street. This was around 10:30 at night with temps around 75 degrees.

I am wondering what else I can do N/A to get that time/trap speed up at full weight. The only thing I'm missing top of my head would be going catless xpipe and ported intake manifold. But that would be 10hp at most maybe? I'd be open to weight reduction that doesn't involve taking out the seats. Racing at half tank will save about 52 lbs, though that's not something I would want to depend on, especially with E85.

I've read going to 4.09 increases acceleration significantly, but it pretty much closes the door on going boosted. I'm also at 3.55 already. I really would like to hit a 125/126 trap (regardless of time) under the same conditions, which is good roll racing territory here in Florida.

 

[OU81]

I know you said you don't want to remove the seats but the rear seat is so easy & quick to take out that it is pretty scary we strap kids in that. Bottom cushion just unclips & each back cushion just has 1 nut that needs to be removed per cushion & they slide out. With an impact the whole thing is maybe a 3 min job for 32 lbs removed. Not much weight but it still adds up

 

[Myshelby3425]

I talked to Trevor at PBD and this is as good as it's gonna get, no more revisions needed.

So with JLT intake, Texas speed headers and xpipe (high flow cats), straight E85 tune and full weight (including full tank of E85 that tested 88% ethanol), and 305 NT05Rs drag radials on stock 19x9.5 wheels I did 11.78 @ 122 on the street. This was around 10:30 at night with temps around 75 degrees.

I am wondering what else I can do N/A to get that time/trap speed up at full weight. The only thing I'm missing top of my head would be going catless xpipe and ported intake manifold. But that would be 10hp at most maybe? I'd be open to weight reduction that doesn't involve taking out the seats. Racing at half tank will save about 52 lbs, though that's not something I would want to depend on, especially with E85.

I've read going to 4.09 increases acceleration significantly, but it pretty much closes the door on going boosted. I'm also at 3.55 already. I really would like to hit a 125/126 trap (regardless of time) under the same conditions, which is good roll racing territory here in Florida.

Try wrapping the intake tube and making a lid for the JLT to get rid of some of the heat. Port the manifold ($250-300) and add Heatshield products Sticky shield to the bottom on the manifold. This will help you out to get more than 10whp. FL heat is no joke.

 

[Zelek]

Try wrapping the intake tube and making a lid for the JLT to get rid of some of the heat. Port the manifold ($250-300) and add Heatshield products Sticky shield to the bottom on the manifold. This will help you out to get more than 10whp. FL heat is no joke.

The bottom of the manifold is plastic. Those heat shields won't make much of a difference.

 

[Myshelby3425]

The bottom of the manifold is plastic. Those heat shields won't make much of a difference.

Steeda seems to think so. It reflects 90-95% of radiant heat. My IATs dropped when I wrapped just the lid of my Steeda closed CAI. The plastic tube closest to the intake gets pretty hot, I couldn’t imagine how much hotter it gets below the intake mani.

 

[Zelek]

Steeda seems to think so. It reflects 90-95% of radiant heat. My IATs dropped when I wrapped just the lid of my Steeda closed CAI. The plastic tube closest to the intake gets pretty hot, I couldn’t imagine how much hotter it gets below the intake mani.

There is nothing measuring the heat at that point though. IAT's are measured before the manifold so any heat reduction you are doing is not being calculated by the ECU. You're just spending money on things you think are doing something and Steeda is gladly taking your money.

They should focus on fixing the issues with their closed box CAI that many have complained about from terrible MAF signals to fitment issues.

 

[Myshelby3425]

There is nothing measuring the heat at that point though. IAT's are measured before the manifold so any heat reduction you are doing is not being calculated by the ECU. You're just spending money on things you think are doing something and Steeda is gladly taking your money.

They should focus on fixing the issues with their closed box CAI that many have complained about from terrible MAF signals to fitment issues.

Well not my money. I bought the shield myself for about $35 vs their precut $99.95 piece. $35 wasn’t going to break the bank so gave it a try. The wrap on the intake did help for a fact.

The box works fine for me, I just don’t use their supplied filter. No fitment issues either.

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