Pay for suspension install or buy tools and do it myself?

[BmacIL]

Thanks for all the thoughtful feedback.

Let's say that I get it done in a shop, what tools will I need to properly remove a wheel and adjust the shocks and struts?

At some point I will also be getting different wheels as well, so I at least want to be able to do the basics.

Thanks,

Struts can be adjusted by popping the hood.

Rear shocks can be adjusted with the wheels on, but rear of car raised. If you want to take the wheels off, 21 mm socket, and torque is 150 lb-ft. You'll want a deep 21 mm socket maybe a short, stubby extension, along with a 1/2" drive torque wrench.

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[MustangGuy]

I've got my Steeda parts: sport linear springs, adj pro-action dampers, camber plates, shock mounts, stop the hop kit.

I've contacted several shops by email to give me a quote on the install, but no response. I'm frustrated by the lack of response.

Part of me wants to buy the tools and do it myself. I have friends that do some of their own work, that would probably be willing to assist, but no mustang friends.

If I was to go the tool route I would need to buy some new tools to my current meager collection. I'm thinking I would need: large and small torque wrench, socket set, low profile jack, jack stands, battery powered impact wrench.

I'm mechanically inclined, but I am by no means the guy who generally works on his own car. The youtube install videos look pretty straight forward.

How much trouble am I getting myself into?

Dano, Don't know what part of Colorado you live in but I had Buchtel Motors in Denver install my complete Steeda suspension including all the same as yours plus some.. Ask for Dave the owner. Small shop with Great service.

 

[NightmareMoon]

What BmacIL said. Both adjustments are at the top of the strut on the Pro Actions, the fronts are easy access in the engine bay, and the rears are easy enough if you jack up the rear of the car a few inches. Removing the wheel would be overkill (although its always good to have the parts onhand to do so).

A standard hydraulic floor jack is all thats needed to get enough space above the rear tire to get your arm in there and reach the strut top.

 

[boB]

One tool I didn't see: the factory service manual.

 

[Roadway 5.0]

For sure do the install yourself. Tip: pre-assemble your struts (struts, cut bumpstops, camber plates) and shocks (shocks, mounts, cut bumpstops). When you go to actually jack-up the car, and install, this will save tons of time and reduce risk of leaving the wheels off of your car (due to time) over night. My bet is you can knock it out in 4-5 hours in a driveway. This includes one trip to Autozone for a tool you don't have yet.

- Mike

 

[Dano]

So one of the shops finally responded to my email requesting a quote. This was the Denver shop recommended by the Steeda rep.
They estimated $1200 to $1400 including alignment!

Holy cow.

Does that seem high to you?

Definitely has me leaning to doing it myself. I can buy some needed tools for way under that, and learn a few things in the process.
I just don't want to screw anything up, or get killed while under the vehicle.

 

[BmacIL]

So one of the shops finally responded to my email requesting a quote. This was the Denver shop recommended by the Steeda rep.
They estimated $1200 to $1400 including alignment!

Holy cow.

Does that seem high to you?

Definitely has me leaning to doing it myself. I can buy some needed tools for way under that, and learn a few things in the process.
I just don't want to screw anything up, or get killed while under the vehicle.

Yes, very high. About double what you should pay.

 

[MustangGuy]

So one of the shops finally responded to my email requesting a quote. This was the Denver shop recommended by the Steeda rep.
They estimated $1200 to $1400 including alignment!

Holy cow.

Does that seem high to you?

Definitely has me leaning to doing it myself. I can buy some needed tools for way under that, and learn a few things in the process.
I just don't want to screw anything up, or get killed while under the vehicle.

It's been a couple of years since I had my install done but I paid $860 including alignment. I thought it was fair for the laundry list of parts I had installed.

 

[Schu]

What do you need offset boxed end wrenches for? What size?

 

[Dano]

So I've decided to do the work myself. I've got all the parts and I've acquired the tools I didn't already have.

This is what I have (all Steeda):

• Low profile full length jacking rails
• Rear IRS Subframe Support Braces
  
• IRS Subframe alignment kit
• IRS Subframe bushing support system
• Adjustable pro-action shocks and struts
• Bumpstops
• Linear sport springs
• Camber plates
• Billet rear shock mounts

I want to divide the work up into bite sized chunks, without having to redo a lot of bolts, but I'm willing to redo bolts if it allows me to better divide up the work. One thought I have is that I want to do all the parts that affect alignment at once.

So here is the order I was thinking:

1. Jacking rails
2. IRS subframe support braces
3. Break
4. Suspension
   1. IRS Subframe alignment kit
   2. Shocks, struts, bumpstops, springs, camber plates, shock mounts
5. Alignment
6. Break
7. Subframe bushing support system.

The reason I'm thinking about doing the bushings support system last, is that I hear that can be difficult and don't want to bite off more than can be done in 4-5 hours. So I'm good dividing this up into multiple Saturday's over the course of a month.

Am I overthinking this?
Thoughts?
Recommendations?

 

[Cardude99]

I don't have any experience doing suspension work myself. I have considered doing the stop the hop kit as it doesn't look that complicated. Please post up your impressions with the install. I'm curious if I could actually accomplish it.

 

[1badrz28]

Everything looks good in the order besides number 7, do the alignment last. I just did springs about 14 days ago, I lowered the rear cradle and it was pretty easy. The fronts are the easiest IMO. Even swapping springs on the struts. Load up your front struts before starting the work and the front swap with be very quick. I used an angle finder on my spindle to get the camber close even with the front suspension dropped.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Irs support braces will have to come out to do the springs and shocks.

The bushing supports will require the removal of your rear shocks and nearly the effort of installing the springs themselves.

In short, springs go in first. Bushing supports while you’re in there and have the subframe dropped, alignment kit happens as you’re bolting the subframe back together, then rear shocks go on, then braces last. Splitting up the work you’re doing a lot of extra steps. Read all the instructions first, multiple times. Do things while they’re accessible. Theres a logical order to all this even if I made a mistake in the order above.

 

[Roadway 5.0]

So I've decided to do the work myself. I've got all the parts and I've acquired the tools I didn't already have.

This is what I have (all Steeda):

• Low profile full length jacking rails
• Rear IRS Subframe Support Braces
  
• IRS Subframe alignment kit
• IRS Subframe bushing support system
• Adjustable pro-action shocks and struts
• Bumpstops
• Linear sport springs
• Camber plates
• Billet rear shock mounts

I want to divide the work up into bite sized chunks, without having to redo a lot of bolts, but I'm willing to redo bolts if it allows me to better divide up the work. One thought I have is that I want to do all the parts that affect alignment at once.

So here is the order I was thinking:

1. Jacking rails
2. IRS subframe support braces
3. Break
4. Suspension
   1. IRS Subframe alignment kit
   2. Shocks, struts, bumpstops, springs, camber plates, shock mounts
5. Alignment
6. Break
7. Subframe bushing support system.

The reason I'm thinking about doing the bushings support system last, is that I hear that can be difficult and don't want to bite off more than can be done in 4-5 hours. So I'm good dividing this up into multiple Saturday's over the course of a month.

Am I overthinking this?
Thoughts?
Recommendations?

You are an organized person. Accountant? Anyway, I would do this order:

1. Preassemble struts, springs, bumpstops, camber plates ; shocks, bumpstops, and shockmounts; install jacking rails so you can use them for step 3
2. Break
3. Install suspension, IRS alignment kit, bushing support system, IRS braces (might take the whole weekend in a driveway)
4. Break (and let suspension settle)
5. Alignment
-------------------------------
Option 2 (less aggressive)
1. Preassemble struts, springs, bumpstops, camber plates ; shocks, bumpstops, and shockmounts; install jacking rails so you can use them for step 3
2. Break
3. Install REAR suspension, IRS alignment kit, bushing support system
4. Break
5. Install FRONT suspension, IRS braces
6. Break (and let suspension settle)
7. Alignment

Be careful with option 2; you don't want to go performance driving with unbalanced springs.

Nightmaremoon said it best, you're better off installing everything you can when the subframe is already down. It's not that bad to drop, but can be time consuming on the first go and you surely don't want to do it twice for no reason. Try and get a buddy to help; you can shave off a lot of time and get some extra strength battling suspension bolts if you don't air tools (I really hope you do...those rear shock bolts -- upper and lower -- are a beast).

- Mike

 

[mustank]

do it yourself. I just did Steeda pro-action coilovers and rear shocks and struts. I did it on jacks in my parking lot. There is no joy like trying to get the rear springs out of their perches. F those B's

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