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BMR Tech Tip: Check those axle-to-spindle retaining nuts!

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moffetts

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I finally got my shafts swapped out with GT350 shafts and new timken hubs and new nuts. No noise yet, but we shall see. The nuts were on there with about a million pounds of force (needed a torch to melt the loctite, otherwise they were not coming off) so the clicking is either the CVs themselves being worn out or a tiny amount of slop between the splines in the shaft and the splines in the hub. If it’s the latter, there’s no way to stop that from wearing.
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highvoltage

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Well i started to get the click and glad for this community and vendors like BMR. Driver side rear nut was definitely loose. Every other one was fine. Added some Red Loctite and will see how it does. Will probably be swinging in to get a new nut though soon.
 

CoolRod

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After autoX last weekend, I've got the ABS/Traction control/Advance Trac/Airbag lights on. Since I previously replaced both the axle shaft nuts and applied red loctite and still had clicking, it looks like I will now need to replace the rear wheel hub bearing assemblies. I noticed Rock Auto has several brands to choose from (Timken, Moog, Motorcraft, Mevotech). Has anybody found that a particular brand better than the other??
 

Jmart

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I finally got my shafts swapped out with GT350 shafts and new timken hubs and new nuts. No noise yet, but we shall see. The nuts were on there with about a million pounds of force (needed a torch to melt the loctite, otherwise they were not coming off) so the clicking is either the CVs themselves being worn out or a tiny amount of slop between the splines in the shaft and the splines in the hub. If it’s the latter, there’s no way to stop that from wearing.
Are you getting any noise after a few weeks of driving? My new OE nuts are still tight, but the metallic pop/clicking sound came back after a week and it seems to be getting worse again. I'm thinking the half shafts and wheel bearings may need replacing. Curious to hear how yours are holding up since you're a step ahead of me in the process. Thanks!
 

moffetts

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Are you getting any noise after a few weeks of driving? My new OE nuts are still tight, but the metallic pop/clicking sound came back after a week and it seems to be getting worse again. I'm thinking the half shafts and wheel bearings may need replacing. Curious to hear how yours are holding up since you're a step ahead of me in the process. Thanks!
So far so good. No creaking or popping.
 

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kapiteinlangzaam

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OK folks, so ive been meaning to update this thread for a while but never got around to it.

My car has been clicking and popping for almost a year.

-Factory bearings failed. Clicking started.
-Replaced OEM bearings. Clicking continued
-Replaced factory half-sahfts with FR GT350 items. Clicking continued
-Replaced diff carrier bushings. Clicking continued
-Greased/cleaned/checked the calliper carriers and disc guards. Clicking continued
-Replaced OEM bearings with Timken. Clicking continues.

-Have several sets of new bolts and flange nuts. No effect. Everything is tightened to BMR specs with Loctite. No effect.

The interesting thing is, that everytime we disassemble the rear end to replace parts, and then reassemble, the clicking will completely disappear for anything from 1 day to 1 week. Or 50 to 500 miles. But it ALWAYS comes back.

Im now in the hole for about $2,000 chasing this and I give up. I'll live with the clicking and popping.
 

Coyote Red

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Sorry to hear ^ problems, to update my 16 GT, build date 12/15 is still driving fine after lowering at 39,000 and I am now at 42,000. I drive as a Medical Tech over 6 county's in coastal bend and hill country Texas. Amazing car after BMR suspension upgrades.
 

Fordman460

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Does anyone know the the specs on the threads for the shaft? When I was pulling my axle nut off it messed up the threads on the shaft and I need to find a die set to fix it.
 

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Interestingly I had a wobble from my rear at 30-35mph.. So I jacked up the drivers side rear, low and behold the damn axle nut was loose. Not finger loose but definitely not 150ft/lbs. Torqued it to spec, and checked the passenger side as it was fine. Test drive and wobble is gone. Who knows how much damage was caused to the bearing (24,000 miles on car). If it comes back, off to the dealer it will go since its still on bumper to bumper warranty.
 

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Update, there is still a wobble at 35mph so its apparently the tires. Having the tires checked with a dynamic balancer this weekend.
 

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whalesalad

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Was having a strange firm metallic clunk when backing into my steep driveway. That is where I first noticed it, really only on the drivers side. Then it started to get worse as the months went by and eventually began happening when rolling around slowly in parking lots (going from forward to reverse normally)

The drivers side nut was loose enough to move about 1/4 turn @ 150 ft/lbs but not sure if that is considered super loose or not.

Regardless I replaced the nuts and also applied red loctite. 150 ft/lbs plus a bit more for good measure. Fortunately my local dealership had them in stock.

32mm socket + 2 axle nuts and about 15 minutes of labor.

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moffetts

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Did it stop the noise? I started hearing a clunking sound under similar circumstances and it was loose lower control arm / camber link bolts. They wouldn't have been loose if I hadn't had to take the damn car apart so many times troubleshooting the stupid bearings.
 

whalesalad

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Did it stop the noise? I started hearing a clunking sound under similar circumstances and it was loose lower control arm / camber link bolts. They wouldn't have been loose if I hadn't had to take the damn car apart so many times troubleshooting the stupid bearings.
I haven’t heard anything yet, fingers crossed. If it continues I will post back here.
 

Bbarfoot14

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I haven’t heard anything yet, fingers crossed. If it continues I will post back here.
So the replacement nut is different then the one that came from the factory?
 

moffetts

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The castle looking ones are the old style. They have been out of circulation for a long time.
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