Pretty sure I have Eco "Pre"-Boom, what to expect/do next?

[NHEcoboost]

Recently I started noticing black, oily, smelly smoke from the exhaust. It got pretty bad. Also had some rough idling and backfires and noticeable oil consumption. I pulled my plugs and the #3 plug is caked with oil, with obvious dampness. The other 3 plugs look clean. I put in fresh plugs and after 2 days, the #3 plug is again black. There is also a VERY slight decrease in my coolant level, although I do not see any oil in there. Funny though, the car sounds fine and seems to run pretty strong, and I don't have any engine related DTC's, not even a miss-fire code. I did have an overboost DTC one time several weeks prior. . At this point I'm not inclined to start it or drive it until I figure out what to do next. Not sure how to tackle this one, but from reading other threads, it doesn't look good.

Picking up a gauge to do a compression test. But from there??

Thoughts?

Time to consider a 2.7/3.5EB swap?

Thanks guys!

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[lizardrko]

Yeah check the compression. Could be a valve issue. Something is causing the plug to go bad if it happend again. Always trace up the stack as to what can cause each issue. Good luck!

 

[Marvinmadman]

Pull the intake manifold and see what the inside looks like and peek at the valves too.

 

[wsfrazier]

If it ends up being worse case scenario and you need a motor, let me know.

I just got my Esslinger long block installed and have my 100% healtht running factory motor I want to sell. Valve cover to oil pan, never cracked open

 

[NHEcoboost]

Update. Pulled the plugs and ran compression. Here is what I got. Please forgive me if I'm in the wrong order but this is from the cylinder closest to firewall which I think is #1?
Cylinder 1: 150
Cylinder 2: 145
Cylinder 3: 155
Cylinder 4: 153ish

So, is this concerning?

Also pulled off the intake manifold and here are the pics of the valves that I can see. Again, I'm assuming that the cylinder closest to the firewall as #1...There is a small amount of oil on the gasket area for back 2 cylinders. Full disclosure, I run a driver's side catch can only.

 

[NHEcoboost]

Also, anyone remember the name of the shop in New Hampshire that builds 2.3's?

 

[Marvinmadman]

How much oil was inside the manifold? Could you pour it out?

 

[NHEcoboost]

No oil at all inside the manifold. the runners are clean. Looking down through the throttle body, it looks factory new, completely dry.

 

[Marvinmadman]

How many miles?

 

[NHEcoboost]

30,100

 

[Rick B]

Isn't your car under warranty? If not pull the head, you don't want to detonate the block. It may just be a head gasket. It certainly sounds like it from the symptoms you presented. An opportunity to get a MLS head gasket and ARP Head Studs

 

[NHEcoboost]

Warranty might be voided with my list of mods...but, yes, I have thought about taking it in to get it assessed. I just don't want to be on the hook if they've torn it down and its in pieces. Still vetting my options. Agreed that I'll do the MLS head gasket and ARP head studs if/when I pull the head!

I'm hoping the issue is isolated to the valves/head. The next step is much more difficult than just pulling the plugs and intake manifold. Fun little winter project.

 

[Rod Schneider]

Warranty might be voided with my list of mods...but, yes, I have thought about taking it in to get it assessed. I just don't want to be on the hook if they've torn it down and its in pieces. Still vetting my options. Agreed that I'll do the MLS head gasket and ARP head studs if/when I pull the head!

I'm hoping the issue is isolated to the valves/head. The next step is much more difficult than just pulling the plugs and intake manifold. Fun little winter project.

Just FYI, the cylinders are numbered front to back, #1 is closest to the radiator. If you do end up pulling the head, be aware that there are 3 special tools that are required, a crank timing lock pin, a cam timing lock plate, and a crank position sensor locating tool. They are available and not really too expensive. This engine does not have any keyways on the crank or cam gears and a very specific procedure is spelled out in the shop manual for setting the timing.

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