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BMR Tech Tip: Check those axle-to-spindle retaining nuts!

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moffetts

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I am wondering if the shorter gears in the PP cars is causing accelerated wear/slop on the splines of the half shafts and/or hubs. This would explain why torquing the piss out of the nuts (well beyond the spec) is temporarily resolving the issue; by doing this, you're locking the two sets of splines together. Eventually, though, the clamping force will lessen to the point that the splines on the half shaft and the splines on the hub are able to slop around again.
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kapiteinlangzaam

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Would it be visually apparent?

I have my original half shafts in the garage.
 

moffetts

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I’m not sure; it’s just a theory on my part. If we had a new or known good/not popping half shaft next to a known bad/popping one, we could have something to go on.
 

panzer

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Hi,

So I finally replaced my hubs after a year of problems off and on. From hearing my first noise to find out they were loose, to using ford spec, then trying BMR spec w/red loctite.

But now after replacing my hubs I think I have found why time and time again some of us are having issues with these spindle nuts coming loose and or hub bearings making popping and cracking sounds.

Below are these washers on my half shaft that ride up against the hub bearing. I have not seen these on all Mustangs. On a CJ Pony Parts Hub install video I did not see anything like this.

I think these could be the root of why the spindle nut eventuality comes loose. This washer smelled burnt and I just removed them and rolling with out these things. I have had no problems yet and hope all my hub and spindle nut problems are over.


So now I'm testing New Hubs, No Washers riding on the hub bearing with new spindle nuts torqued to BMR spec with red loctite.



I think its gonna last this time :)

https://imgur.com/a/gGFZNAi






Ref: CJ Pony Hub Install Vid

[ame]




gKiIjxg.jpg




66.jpg
 
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moffetts

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Interesting. My various hubs have not had that piece. I hope it stays quiet, but I seriously doubt it, unfortunately.
 

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moffetts

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The familiar popping has evolved and become creaking as well. I am replacing both hubs, both half shafts, and both nuts next weekend. I’ll get comparison pics of the old and new shafts; maybe we will be able to spot where these things are wearing.
 

kapiteinlangzaam

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I replaced my wheel bearings again today.

These ones are 6m old with about 10k miles. Only fitted through this summer season and they look like they've been under the freaking ocean. OEM Motorcraft.

Replaced with Timken. Clicking popping has gone, but for how long. When I put the GT350 half shafts in, it was silent for a few weeks and about 1k miles.

Old vs new

IMG_20180913_145023.jpg


IMG_20180913_145043.jpg


IMG_20180913_145030.jpg
 
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BMR Tech

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Crazy isnt it
 

kapiteinlangzaam

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Crazy isnt it
It's driving me nuts.

None of it warranty covered either.

$150,000 car here where I live, and this is the shit you have to put up with.
 

smann

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Can you link me to those timken bearings?
Thanks
 

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kapiteinlangzaam

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I got them from Rockauto.
 

Coyote Red

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I am at 39,000 miles and so good so far.
 

TheLion

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So I had a chance to pull the driver side rear wheel this morning on my GT, since that seems to be the most problematic side. This particular car only has just under 1900 miles on it, and the spindle nut did not budge with my torque wrench set at 150 ftlbs.

On my car, the stock nut has cutouts for a cotter pin. I added some red locktite at all of the cutout points, though I have no idea if that will really do anything, since locktite is designed to be spread into the threads when installing the nut onto the bolt. I did not want to loosen the stock nut to properly install the locktite, because that essentially would have rendered the existing nut unusable, as they are a one-time use piece. I still have to check the passenger side nut, but will do that when I can pull the car out of the garage.

I picked up 2 new nuts today to have on hand, just in case. Part number CCPZ-3B477-F, which do not have cotter pin cutouts, and appear to be Ford's silver grade 10.9 one-time use hardware.
Those cutouts are NOT for a cotter pin. They are pressure flanges. Take a nut off and then start to tighten it back on by hand. It'll go on really easy until you reach the crowned portion, then you will need a wrench to turn them. It's more or less a "quasi-staked" nut. It's not fully locked, but will add substantial friction.

I had to remove both CV joints to do a diff cover swap after I sheared a diff bolt, so I just recently did this hoopla. And the new nuts have thread lock on them instead of being staked / crowned so I'm guess the thread lock is more resistance to loosening due to vibration and thermal expansion and contraction effects.

I wonder if my staked nuts have backed out a bit and that's where my mysterious vibration is coming from that generally only happens around 110~120 mph...
 

Jmart

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Just went through this on my 2017 with just over 6k miles. Heard a pop one day while cornering, followed by a metallic sound when either starting from a stop or rolling to a stop. Checked my driver's side retaining nut and I could easily tighten it with a 3/8" drive ratchet. Got new OE nuts, applied red loctite and torqued to 150+ ft-lb. Sound came back a week later, this time the passenger side nut was loose. Followed the same process and now all sound is gone. Hope it stays that way!
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