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SCCA F-Street Setup. What's Everyone Done so Far?

SteveW

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I simply unplug it and fire up the car. Put on my seat belt and then change drive modes. I don't touch anything with advancetrac if I have the jumper unplugged. No more weird advancetrac issues, but it does disable new accelerometer recordings in the cluster (who cares?)

Were you on ABS after the finish or just cruising?
Same here with my GT. If unplugged then no worries about messing with stability control & traction control settings. I just start it up and go. It's like stability and traction control just disappears. I have a base so what's all this drive mode talk, haha?

I've also not experienced a Service Advanctrac dingaling message while unplugged. Only thing is remembering to plug the jumper back in (or not) for the trip home.
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DickR

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Thanks for the info.

Do you have to wait 30 seconds every time?

About 0.7 g braking. Not even close to ABS.
 

DickR

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Same here with my GT. If unplugged then no worries about messing with stability control & traction control settings. I just start it up and go. It's like stability and traction control just disappears. I have a base so what's all this drive mode talk, haha?

I've also not experienced a Service Advanctrac dingaling message while unplugged. Only thing is remembering to plug the jumper back in (or not) for the trip home.
Great to hear. I'll do some "get acquainted with it testing" prior to going to Lincoln for the Pro Finale and Nats. I need "drive mode" to get the MagneRide Track mode.

Thanks!
 

DickR

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Tested briefly this morning on the street with no indications of "gotchas" or delays EXCEPT for anyone who left foot brakes and tends to overlap brake and throttle enough to light the brake lights even if the pedal pressure is minimal. Normally brake overrides throttle at speeds over about 10 mph unless Advance Trac is disabled. With the connector unplugged brake overrides throttle did not appear to be disabled. Not relevant to me fortunately.
 

DickR

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9 runs today on a 53 second TnT course with similar elements to the 80 second course last weekend where the problem appeared (after the finish). No issues with 7 runs using the normal toggle switch to turn off Advance Trac in Track drive mode. Also no issues with 2 runs with the "dyno plug" removed in Track drive mode. MagneRide and steering felt the same.

FYI I checked front and rear "wheel bearings" and the rear stub axle nuts for any play and looked for any debris behind the brake rotors that might interfere with the wheel speed sensors. No play and no visible debris but I really couldn't see the wheel speed sensor/toothed wheel due to the brake debris shields. I did not remove calipers so I could remove the rotors.
 

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w3rkn

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Is there a forscan code for that "brake over throttle" nanny..?


I have 3 feet.
 

NightmareMoon

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Is there a forscan code for that "brake over throttle" nanny..?


I have 3 feet.
Not that I've seen. That kind of thing is usually the domain of the ECU tuning, not really an as-built configuration type of deal.
 

Wolverine

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Two-day Autocross last weekend, and the first event I used the “unplug” method for TC/STM. Pulled the plug first thing Saturday morning during tech and at startup I got the familiar lights indicating those systems were off. Ran all day with no issues at all. Parked the car overnight, came back in the morning and I had a “Steering Assist Fault - Service Required” message, and NO power steering at all!

I got on the forums, found a few cases of this with little to no solution. I took the battery cables off for 1.5 hours (while I worked the course in the morning), removed the ground bolt and scraped away the paint under it to ensure solid connection, reconnected the plug, started and stopped the engine several times, drove around the paddock, and even checked for codes using a friends Cobb AccessPort. No codes and none of my tricks had any effect.

I drove all day Sunday with no power steering, ended up taking first place in my class but it was not fun or easy to manage the car on transitions. The force required to turn the wheel was inconsistent (as expected when tire friction varies).

Drove home and parked it. Noon on Monday I start it up to drive to work (expecting no PS) but to my relief the error was gone, and PS restored. While I’m grateful to have it working again, I no longer trust it and I’m not willing to pull the plug near the air box at my next event for fear this might happen again.
 

boardkat

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FWIW, code isn’t in ECU, need an MSCAN-capable ELM327 OBD-II dongle to access the module and clear in FORScan. Never had it happen myself, but had a similar experience doing a burnout at an early season PS and tripped a code in the ABS module. Lost the run, but reset when I got back and didn’t lose my next three.
Electronics on this car are finicky regardless of what you do (or do not). IME, best solution is to be prepared when they try to bury you at inopportune times. But trust me when I say you’ll be worse off without dyno mode than with it more often than not :)
 

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DickR

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I used the recommended OBD reader and FORscan a few days ago for the first time since the Advance Track warnings on August 4 and subsequent testing with the "dyno plug" removed. After screen printing the DTC's I cleared them and then removed the dyno plug. Those DCT's seem to be identical. However, I don't know if the original DTC's had self cleared due to the time between the event and when checked weeks later.

Dennis (Boardkat): Are you aware of anyone with MagneRide and the oem controller who has pulled the dyno plug? If yes have they noticed any change in characteristics compared to simply using the switch to disable Advance Trac? The only difference I see/feel is that the plug doesn't disable brake over throttle but I don't LFB.
 

DocWalt

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My car has MR and I pull the dyno plug. Works perfectly normally. I can't speak for '18s
 

DickR

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My car has MR and I pull the dyno plug. Works perfectly normally. I can't speak for '18s
Great info. Thanks!

Do you replace the plug ASAP after your runs and do you clear the DTC's? I've replace the plug but didn't clear DTC's (using FORscan) until a couple of days ago. Fortunately no indication of power steering issues such as Wolverine experienced with his 17 after leaving the plug off overnight.

FYI I found a "2 wheel Dyno mode" status item in FORscan yesterday. However it does not change from On with or without the plug.
 

DocWalt

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Great info. Thanks!

Do you replace the plug ASAP after your runs and do you clear the DTC's? I've replace the plug but didn't clear DTC's (using FORscan) until a couple of days ago. Fortunately no indication of power steering issues such as Wolverine experienced with his 17 after leaving the plug off overnight.

FYI I found a "2 wheel Dyno mode" status item in FORscan yesterday. However it does not change from On with or without the plug.
I drove home with the plug undone by accident, no issues. DTCs cleared when I plugged it back in, IIRC. I don't worry about the DTCs too much.
 

Wolverine

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Are you guys unplugging/plugging-in this connector with the engine running? I always do it with the car shut off, just because if there’s communication happening (power flowing) through this connector then I don’t want to risk it unnecessarily.
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