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How to lower IAT’s PMAS?

BmacIL

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Says people who've worked in full vehicle engineering & vehicle requirements for a while.
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gearhead2685

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Says people who've worked in full vehicle engineering & vehicle requirements for a while.
Well going off the link in your sig less grill covering equals more hp......

There for Ford could have made more HP by uncovering more or changing the air box inlet but i guess their rating was "enough" according to you?

So hence why i was asking if this was your random theory or what.....

Never mind me i guess some people appreciate something to backup what they say......
 

BmacIL

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Well going off the link in your sig less grill covering equals more hp......

There for Ford could have made more HP by uncovering more or changing the air box inlet but i guess their rating was "enough" according to you?

So hence why i was asking if this was your random theory or what.....

Never mind me i guess some people appreciate something to backup what they say......
Ford has fuel economy targets and other vehicle attributes they have to consider when selling a car. First and foremost, they are going to cover up as much of the grille area as possible to reduce drag while still 1) cooling the vehicle properly and 2) providing enough air inlet cross-section to produce rated power (under all design conditions: high altitude, hot weather, cold weather, etc). Second, they want to minimize the air inlet area to its minimum required specifically for things like snow, dust, foreign object ingestion into the airbox. It's not a random theory. This is how vehicles get designed and engineered in an iterative process. Your skepticism is understood, though.

The Big Mouth will improve IATs for all airboxes; stock, GT350, PMAS, JLT, Steeda, etc. It is not a part that can be installed at production rate on the assembly line nor could a longer inlet on the stock box work as it would not be able to be assembled, so compromises are made. It will also add positive pressure to closed airboxes, which will improve power at high vehicle speeds. Even with open boxes, it will still direct more clean air into the inlet and filter than without during all conditions. Yes, this product will improve performance in real-world use.
 

gearhead2685

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I entirely get what you are saying and agree i was just trying to wedge some more info or response out of you.

Didnt intend to sound arrogant or spiteful.

Itll be interesting to see how the PMAS fits with the Cobra Jet intake.

I understand its not a direct fit and I might have to do something to shield it from the underhood temps.

I wish there was a better off the shelf cold air intake for the CJ manifold. I need to look more at maybe the whipple cold air intake that goes down the fender well. At least its roval and should mate up to the VMP TB good.

Thanks just trying to push the discussion.
 

BmacIL

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I entirely get what you are saying and agree i was just trying to wedge some more info or response out of you.

Didnt intend to sound arrogant or spiteful.

Itll be interesting to see how the PMAS fits with the Cobra Jet intake.

I understand its not a direct fit and I might have to do something to shield it from the underhood temps.

I wish there was a better off the shelf cold air intake for the CJ manifold. I need to look more at maybe the whipple cold air intake that goes down the fender well. At least its roval and should mate up to the VMP TB good.

Thanks just trying to push the discussion.
NP :thumbsup:

Sealing the box to the hood as best as possible and cutting out the radiator back wash into the intake stream is the best way to manage it. The big mouth does that second bit.

I believe that the PMAS and JLT intake boxes should fit, though I'll admit I'm not in tune with all the details of much of the aftermarket FI stuff.
 

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gearhead2685

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Right, I figured id use some gold reflective sheeting to block off as much of the underhood side as I can and some stripping like the roush or jlt box uses to seal up against the hood.

I cant even see my car at the moment since im out in Wash DC and cars at home in North Dakota slowly collecting a mountian of parts. LOL
 

pgonza2723

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With a JLT the IATs were pretty high till I took a Dremel to just the inlet side of the grill. Now my IATs are pretty consistently 2-4* off ambient when 30+ and drop fairly quickly off a stop. One thing that made a big difference was make sure to check the snorkel. Mine I didn't lock into place to moved into the box. Once I put into position it made a substantial difference as well.
 

JKL1031

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Ford has fuel economy targets and other vehicle attributes they have to consider when selling a car. First and foremost, they are going to cover up as much of the grille area as possible to reduce drag while still 1) cooling the vehicle properly and 2) providing enough air inlet cross-section to produce rated power (under all design conditions: high altitude, hot weather, cold weather, etc). Second, they want to minimize the air inlet area to its minimum required specifically for things like snow, dust, foreign object ingestion into the airbox. It's not a random theory. This is how vehicles get designed and engineered in an iterative process. Your skepticism is understood, though.

The Big Mouth will improve IATs for all airboxes; stock, GT350, PMAS, JLT, Steeda, etc. It is not a part that can be installed at production rate on the assembly line nor could a longer inlet on the stock box work as it would not be able to be assembled, so compromises are made. It will also add positive pressure to closed airboxes, which will improve power at high vehicle speeds. Even with open boxes, it will still direct more clean air into the inlet and filter than without during all conditions. Yes, this product will improve performance in real-world use.
There is a huge lack of OEM production and design knowledge here. Power in fsct isn't everything to a design.
 

gameovergt

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I've got a velossa tech big mouth that needs to be installed. You could look into getting one. Works great with stock air box & grill. .edited: others already mentioned it. Lol.
 

BmacIL

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There is a huge lack of OEM production and design knowledge here. Power in fsct isn't everything to a design.
Correct, which is why I listed a few of the key other things that go into the design and systems engineering of something like an airbox/grille interface.
 

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wireeater

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Rip it out and put the stock box back in?

I run PMAS and I never understand what the fuss is about. I've never had issues, even on summer days. But then again, I don't even pay attention to the IATS. I ran on a 95 degree night with a full tank of e85, flex tune and my intake with a slick and hit 7.8 for the 1/8th, manual.
 

WildHorse

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There is a huge lack of OEM production and design knowledge here. Power in fsct isn't everything to a design.
I understand perfectly. First and foremost, stock airbox is designed for sound suppression. Then efficiency/power. My JLT IS DESIGNED for airflow. So there ya go. :thumbsup:
 

JaxS550

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I am in Florida with a Steeda CAI. I still have the honeycombs in the corner, but used a dremel tool to cut out the back side off the closed off ones so most of them are open honeycombs now (just left the partial honeycombs in the corner edges blocked). I also tried to get the box to seal as best as possible to the hood. I tested using and not using the stock snorkel that Steeda has you re-use and it does make a big difference. (I initially didn't want to use the snorkel because its a B to use with the crap little tab screws that Steeda has you try to use. I ended up drilling 2 holes on each side of the snorkel-thru the box, and used a zip tie in a loop on each side thru those holes to hold the snorkel tightly in place.) This set up will get a little warm at a redlight but as soon as I start moving temps go down very fast so I don't care.

I was considering using some heat tape or header wrap, but it really is not that big of an issue for a daily driver. If it was a track car where every HP and degree mattered then maybe...
 

BmacIL

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I am in Florida with a Steeda CAI. I still have the honeycombs in the corner, but used a dremel tool to cut out the back side off the closed off ones so most of them are open honeycombs now (just left the partial honeycombs in the corner edges blocked). I also tried to get the box to seal as best as possible to the hood. I tested using and not using the stock snorkel that Steeda has you re-use and it does make a big difference. (I initially didn't want to use the snorkel because its a B to use with the crap little tab screws that Steeda has you try to use. I ended up drilling 2 holes on each side of the snorkel-thru the box, and used a zip tie in a loop on each side thru those holes to hold the snorkel tightly in place.) This set up will get a little warm at a redlight but as soon as I start moving temps go down very fast so I don't care.

I was considering using some heat tape or header wrap, but it really is not that big of an issue for a daily driver. If it was a track car where every HP and degree mattered then maybe...
If you ever decide you want to address that, the big mouth will greatly improve IATs in traffic with your intake. Happy modding :cheers:
 

347CobraII

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Intake temp always reads higher. Every morning or even after a week of sitting whole car going to be same temp and intake is always high by few degrees. So insulating everything will not change that. Why ford had it do this maybe to protect engine? maybe outside reading is wrong? But in the end doesn't really matter?
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