Educate a noob: Why does the Coyote respond so well to boost?

[Coconut]

Can anyone explain why the Coyote responds so well to boost? Compression ratio is fairly high at 11.0:1 and it's an aluminum block, yet it makes power so easily with FI. You throw $7-8k at a Coyote and you have 670HP+ without breaking a sweat. And why is that the Coyote responds better to power adders than an LT2/LT3?

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[ghostnote]

For the 2015+ in particular, forged rods and upgraded internals. Also, DOHC allows better airflow than the LS pushrod design. By that I ean that, at high RPMs, the cams can be adjusted so that the engine is still making power. With a few upgrades you can rev up to 8,000 - which is a big deal when it comes to horsepower.

EDIT: I should clarify that by "few upgrades" I don't mean cheap. Spinning past 7200 rpm or so is very taxing on components. But the coyote's design allows much power to be made even at high rpms. This engine doesn't "fall flat" like others. That's why people say it likes to rev.

EDIT 2: Also, I doubt that you can get 650+ usable whp for less than 10k. Sure, you can get the blower kit for about 7-8k. But then there's the install. And the accessories, including FBO. And the OPG. And suspension/axles/wheels/tires to get the power to the ground. It all adds up way past 8k. So no, you won't get 670whp for 8k. I mean, on the dyno, sure, if you don't care about longevity. But it won't give you consistent power at full operating temps.

 

[Dominant1]

Its got big lungs with 4 valves per cylinder, boost loves that!

 

[V8EATR]

As far as hp/liter or per pound of boost or however you want to rate it, cylinder head flow (not just peak either, coyote heads have great low lift numbers as well) and variable cam timing. Makes a smaller engine run like a bigger engine.

 

[NavyChief122]

I have 591 whp for less than 6k installed and could have more easily with a change of a pulley. It's very easy to get power on 5.0. If you spend 10k you better have 800whp. Name brand means a lot to people for some reason.

 

[jhatley7]

I have 591 whp for less than 6k installed and could have more easily with a change of a pulley. It's very easy to get power on 5.0. If you spend 10k you better have 800whp. Name brand means a lot to people for some reason.

Umm Yea I bought it all just because of the names on it. :frusty:

 

[3beeps]

I have 591 whp for less than 6k installed and could have more easily with a change of a pulley. It's very easy to get power on 5.0. If you spend 10k you better have 800whp. Name brand means a lot to people for some reason.

Always gotta make it about brands :doh:

 

[jhatley7]

Always gotta make it about brands :doh:

That's a bad ass pulley to gain 200whp! Lmfao

 

[347CobraII]

4 valve heads only part of it and having variable cam timing

 

[ForTehNguyen]

because you multiplying boost across 5 liters. A viper is even crazier on mild boost because of 8.4 liters

 

[RT302]

For the 2015+ in particular, forged rods and upgraded internals. Also, DOHC allows better airflow than the LS pushrod design. By that I ean that, at high RPMs, the cams can be adjusted so that the engine is still making power. With a few upgrades you can rev up to 8,000 - which is a big deal when it comes to horsepower.

EDIT: I should clarify that by "few upgrades" I don't mean cheap. Spinning past 7200 rpm or so is very taxing on components. But the coyote's design allows much power to be made even at high rpms. This engine doesn't "fall flat" like others. That's why people say it likes to rev.

EDIT 2: Also, I doubt that you can get 650+ usable whp for less than 10k. Sure, you can get the blower kit for about 7-8k. But then there's the install. And the accessories, including FBO. And the OPG. And suspension/axles/wheels/tires to get the power to the ground. It all adds up way past 8k. So no, you won't get 670whp for 8k. I mean, on the dyno, sure, if you don't care about longevity. But it won't give you consistent power at full operating temps.

FBO?

 

[Dominant1]

Full bolt ons....

 

[RT302]

Full bolt ons....

In the spirit of "educate a noob" lol. What all does full bolt ons entail? I'm looking at the E-force because of the warranty, I already have roush AB and the E-force replaces the intake manifold right? What else would be involved in this situation to keep warranty? I know headers and custom tune are out of the question

 

[Heardcuh]

In the spirit of "educate a noob" lol. What all does full bolt ons entail? I'm looking at the E-force because of the warranty, I already have roush AB and the E-force replaces the intake manifold right? What else would be involved in this situation to keep warranty? I know headers and custom tune are out of the question

It is my understanding that "full bolt on" for a 2015 Mustang GT would be a Cold Air Intake, Catback Exhaust, Long Tube Headers and a Tuner and Tune file to tie it all together. Some people consider that to be full bolt on, others think it also includes an upgraded throttle body and intake manifold such as the GT350 one. Full bolt on cars seem to hang around 450-470 depending on the car, Dyno, and fuel used from what I have seen on this forum.

 

[jasonstang]

When you have pressure but no flow it doesn't make horse power. Think of a pressure washer.
The Coyote head flows so much better than the LS it allows more rev and more rev means more flow and more flow means more power.

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