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Easiest Subwoofer to Install for A/V Noob?

Sda3

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I'll have to look at this as well. I have the 9 speaker shaker with no sub as well but have a sub and amp sitting in my basement.
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Bartly

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On a premium it is much less.. and it is already low level.. there is a little bit of processing.. but not as significant as after the amp.. on the premium systems the crossover is in the amp.. they are set and the processing is in the amp.. thats why on the premium there is not as much processing in the head unit..

I tuen off all processing in the head unit.. the beauty of the Shaker system versus a Sony system is the output is varied behind the radio where the sony system is steady and the amp does all of the volume adjustment..

Anyone that has a premium basically has an equivalent of an aftermarket radio in the car.. the output voltage is 2-3.6 volts and it will NOT clip.. all the way up there is no clipping..

It is also a full range signal.. all the way.. so you do not have to worry about summing channels or any of that garbage... if you have a premium.. grab the input for your aftermarket amp at the input of the factory amp and you will be very pleased
Hey OEMRadio,
Can you go into a little detail of the Base stereo for us Base guys. I am wondering how tapping into the rear speaker wires would work out for adding a Sub? Does a person have to tap into both left and right speakers to route to an amp to power one sub woofer? Also if you don't mind, how about hooking an amp to the front speakers lines to power 1 sub and better door speakers? Any insight you can share? I realize you can modify a stock head unit for us, but I'm not that much of an audiophile, so can live with less than perfect sound. Just unsure how bad it would really sound.
 

pike1346

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I can get you the factory amp input plug diagram.. basically the wires that feed the input of the factory amp will be used for the input of your sub amp

There are no RCA connectors.. but the input to the amp is the equivalent of RCA level.. what you would do is cut the ends off an RCA and solder them onto the input wires.. and you are good to go. I believe the factory amp is on the driver side dash.. I cant remember.. someone else may be able to help with the location of it..

it is a very easy thing to do.. and it provides for the best signal to your amp..
I really appreciate all the input. I think, from what I have researched, the outputs are on the Grey 16 pin plug, pin 1 is purple/green positive sub and pin 2 is green/white negative sub....located on the factory amp in the drivers side kick panel.

I am going to tap into these. I believe this will get the signal to the amp.
 

OEMRadio

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I really appreciate all the input. I think, from what I have researched, the outputs are on the Grey 16 pin plug, pin 1 is purple/green positive sub and pin 2 is green/white negative sub....located on the factory amp in the drivers side kick panel.

I am going to tap into these. I believe this will get the signal to the amp.
I would actually grab the rear channel into the amp.. not that one.. that would have some processing .. that is the signal out from that amp to the sub amp.. so grab either front of rear.. those come directly from the ACM
 

pike1346

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I can get you the factory amp input plug diagram.. basically the wires that feed the input of the factory amp will be used for the input of your sub amp

There are no RCA connectors.. but the input to the amp is the equivalent of RCA level.. what you would do is cut the ends off an RCA and solder them onto the input wires.. and you are good to go. I believe the factory amp is on the driver side dash.. I cant remember.. someone else may be able to help with the location of it..

it is a very easy thing to do.. and it provides for the best signal to your amp..
on second thought, could you please provide me with the factory amp input diagram when you get a minute? i would really appreciate it.
 

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OEMRadio

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Yes.. easier for me if you email me so I can just send as an attachment.. posting pictures is a pain ..
 

Sda3

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I'd love to get ahold of it as well, I see this project in my near future as well
 

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Anybody have pictures of them connecting a 4 channel amp to the factory amp. I'm trying wire all my car speakers to my aftermarket amp but idk how to connect the factory wires on the amp to my aftermarket amp
 

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I've never had an issue with about 15 installations of these. Maybe they've changed something inside. But I never just plug in an amplifier to power, I always have the battery disconnected, then plug it in, then reconnect the battery. Not doing this often prematurely degrades internal caps in amps.
Going on six months with mine. NO issues. Installed as you should, took my time. Fingers crossed I guess. I'm very happy.
 

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On a premium it is much less.. and it is already low level.. there is a little bit of processing.. but not as significant as after the amp.. on the premium systems the crossover is in the amp.. they are set and the processing is in the amp.. thats why on the premium there is not as much processing in the head unit..

I tuen off all processing in the head unit.. the beauty of the Shaker system versus a Sony system is the output is varied behind the radio where the sony system is steady and the amp does all of the volume adjustment..

Anyone that has a premium basically has an equivalent of an aftermarket radio in the car.. the output voltage is 2-3.6 volts and it will NOT clip.. all the way up there is no clipping..

It is also a full range signal.. all the way.. so you do not have to worry about summing channels or any of that garbage... if you have a premium.. grab the input for your aftermarket amp at the input of the factory amp and you will be very pleased
So then, I can just replace the rear speakers in my Premium car with woofer/tweeter pairs, and a passive crossover under the rear shelf? The signal going there is full-range and flat, correct? (I plan to replace the rear speakers before messing with the door speaker set.)
 

OEMRadio

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So then, I can just replace the rear speakers in my Premium car with woofer/tweeter pairs, and a passive crossover under the rear shelf? The signal going there is full-range and flat, correct? (I plan to replace the rear speakers before messing with the door speaker set.)
No.. this is NOT what I am saying.. what I am saying is this is a perfect signal for an aftermarket amp to use.. send this signal to the amp and you will have a great starting point.. if you were to try and power speakers with this you would be sadly disappointed
 

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Right, well unfortunately we are discussing two separate issues, and getting them crossed up.

First, yes, I get that IF I want line-level, then your point is that I am fortunate to have the Premium car, and the best place to tap it is before the outboard amp.

But second, IF I want to replace the rear deck speakers and use the high-level signal from this outboard amp, then my question to you is about confirming that this high-level signal is full-range and flat.

Note that only after replacing the crap speakers back there, will I reevaluate the need for a trunk subwoofer. (I am a "40Hz is good enough for me guy".)
 

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Sorry to gravedig, I am interested in hooking my subwoofer amp up to the amp input like these guys was talking about. I am not positive which inputs OEMradio was referring too, on the little chart, can someone clarify which number/spots would be where I want to connect positive sub and negative sub to? Be awesome for some clarification if this is indeed better than a lc2i

I have a 17 premium, 9 speaker. so I should be able to use this chart they was referring too from what I understand.
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