Where to find the true OEM oil filter?

[xXANCHORMONXx]

So what you are telling me is that your finance guy said you void the warranty if you listen to the car's handbook that REQUIRES YOU to maintain the vehicle, you only void the warranty if you use a fluid that is lower quality than the recommended products. If you put fluids of better quality in your vehicle that are not OEM, your warranty will not be voided.

Yup exactly! Haha

I mean I'm sure there are the guys out there who forget to put oil back in or don't put enough and blame it on the dealer.

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[badass03ragtop]

I'm sure there are the guys out there who forget to put oil back in or don't put enough and blame it on the dealer.

Yeah, but dealership service departments aren't immune. I was having a warranty item (heater core) replaced at the dealership on my '03 when a Zinc Yellow Coby came in on a rollback with a seized engine. Apparently, the dealership had done a maintenance oil change and lube service on the car and whoever put the drain plug back in hadn't done it correctly, so it fell out and, of course, so did all of the engine oil...

 

[dgc333]

OK, then are both made by Purolator to Ford specs, but I do recall there being one difference: FL-820S (used on both my 03 'vert and SuperCrew), has the bypass valve at the backplate end of the filter, while the Purolator PureOne has the bypass located at the domed end of the filter.

I have researched the filters numerous times and always come away with the same conclusion, Purolator and Motorcraft are the best out there, but I give Motorcraft the nod for the reason mentioned. Of course, they are usually cheaper than the PureOnes too, so that doesn't hurt.

There is no "bypass valve" in oil filters per say. The actual filter element inside the can is floating, there is a spring at the bottom of the can that pushes it against the end plate and seals it so the oil has to pass through the filter media. If the pressure drop exceeds specs the filter element will move away from the end plate allowing the some/all the oil to bypass the filter media. This typically happens for a bit on cold start up or if you have not changed the filter in a very long time and it is plugged.

Most filters (but not all) have an antidrain back valve that you can see looking through the holes around the outer diameter of the end plate. The purpose of this is to prevent oil that is in the oil passages of the engine above the filter from draining back through the filter to the oil pan. If you buy a filter that is spec'd for your engine regardless of manufacturer if it requires an antidrain back valve it will have one.

I agree that Motorcraft or Purolator aare good filters. If you like Purolator Bosch is another choice, since they purchased Purolator Bosch filters have been rebranded Purolators.

Wix, Fram and Champion makes most all the other filters you can purchase.

 

[MyMustangVault]

For oil changes - are you going to go by the oil maintenance on the gauge display (% left) ?

 

[steve1107]

I'm doing an oil change soon and saw that the oem filter says FoMoCo compared to the Motorcraft ones you can get at the local parts store. Does anyone know if the dealership sells this one as pictured?

OEM doesn't mean "Outstanding Excellent Magnificent". Motorcraft is an excellent replacement.

 

[dgc333]

I am old school so I will do the first change around 1000-1500 miles, the second at 5k and 7.5k after that with synthetic oil. It's worked for me for the past 40 years where I regularly put 200,000+ miles on my vehicles and never had an internal engine failure or a turbo failure.

The manual for my ST said 10k miles, 1 year or when the monitor said to change it. And it was like clock work at 10k (didn't reset it when I changed the oil to see what it would do). My wife's car says the same thing but it came on at 7480 miles.

 

[TorkN8R]

First Oil Change

Did the first oil change yesterday with 500 miles on my GT/PP.

Went to the Ford Dealership and bought the Motorcraft FL-500 S filter and
12 (Case) Qts. Of Motorcraft 5-20W Full Synthitic oil.

I raised the front end up good and high, opened and drained 98% or so of the oil (cold) and than quickly spun on a Magnetic drain plug that I had also previously bought. I let the rest of the oil drain againist the magnetic plug for about a half hour. I did this just to see if there would be any metal shavings on the magnet.

I was glad to see that there wasn't any traces of metal at all on the magnet.

I than poured a new qt. of oil into the motor with the drain plug out. I did this just incase there was any metal pieces in the bottom of the pan that I may be able to flush out.

I than let that drain for a good hour while I took off the small arrow pan (8) screws, the one on the PP that has the flap for the oil filter. I did this because even with the flap pulled down, I was certain that when I spun off the filter, oil would run and drip all over the place, on the K-brace and there are some electric plugs down there as well (don't know what contraption it is that they are plugged into).

I than took some heavyduty aluminum foil and fashioned a funnel under the oil filter to run into my oil change pan. I let everything drip out until it stopped, about 2 hours. Than I wiped eveything down spic and span, put the stock drain plug back in and took the new oil filter, put a light coat of oil in the gasket, hand tightened it down, lowered the Mustang and funneled in my 8qts. of new oil.

Fired it up, let it warm up until the tach droped to operation temp and took it for a short ride. (15 miles) Parked it in the garage and turned out the lights. I know that was a long and boring story about a anal oil change but heres the important part that I think you should all know. I went out this morning and checked the oil, it was 1/2 way done the hash marks, 1/2 Qt. So I know I went along way around for that bit of info, but the point is, an oil change with the filter is 8 and 1/2 qts. Not 8 qts.

 

[Nanashii]

Did the first oil change yesterday with 500 miles on my GT/PP.

Went to the Ford Dealership and bought the Motorcraft FL-500 S filter and
12 (Case) Qts. Of Motorcraft 5-20W Full Synthitic oil.

I raised the front end up good and high, opened and drained 98% or so of the oil (cold) and than quickly spun on a Magnetic drain plug that I had also previously bought. I let the rest of the oil drain againist the magnetic plug for about a half hour. I did this just to see if there would be any metal shavings on the magnet.

I was glad to see that there wasn't any traces of metal at all on the magnet.

I than poured a new qt. of oil into the motor with the drain plug out. I did this just incase there was any metal pieces in the bottom of the pan that I may be able to flush out.

I than let that drain for a good hour while I took off the small arrow pan (8) screws, the one on the PP that has the flap for the oil filter. I did this because even with the flap pulled down, I was certain that when I spun off the filter, oil would run and drip all over the place, on the K-brace and there are some electric plugs down there as well (don't know what contraption it is that they are plugged into).

I than took some heavyduty aluminum foil and fashioned a funnel under the oil filter to run into my oil change pan. I let everything drip out until it stopped, about 2 hours. Than I wiped eveything down spic and span, put the stock drain plug back in and took the new oil filter, put a light coat of oil in the gasket, hand tightened it down, lowered the Mustang and funneled in my 8qts. of new oil.

Fired it up, let it warm up until the tach droped to operation temp and took it for a short ride. (15 miles) Parked it in the garage and turned out the lights. I know that was a long and boring story about a anal oil change but heres the important part that I think you should all know. I went out this morning and checked the oil, it was 1/2 way done the hash marks, 1/2 Qt. So I know I went along way around for that bit of info, but the point is, an oil change with the filter is 8 and 1/2 qts. Not 8 qts.

On the PP, the additional 1/2 qt is to compensate for the extra capacity of the oil cooler.

 

[erne75]

I got a couple of Motorcraft FL-500S oil filters at my local chinamart for less than $6 each. They also had 5qt of Motorcraft synthetic blend 5w-20 oil for around $17. I bought two...My car has 2400 miles. I'll wait until it gets to 3000 miles in the next couple weeks for the oil change.

Do I need to get a new oil plug washer like most of my previous car had or one is not needed?

 

[xXANCHORMONXx]

I got a couple of Motorcraft FL-500S oil filters at my local chinamart for less than $6 each. They also had 5qt of Motorcraft synthetic blend 5w-20 oil for around $17. I bought two...My car has 2400 miles. I'll wait until it gets to 3000 miles in the next couple weeks for the oil change.

Do I need to get a new oil plug washer like most of my previous car had or one is not needed?

I was wondering the same thing

When I looked at the plug on the car I didn't see a washer. I'm thinking it has an oring instead of a crush washer.

 

[TorkN8R]

I was wondering the same thing

When I looked at the plug on the car I didn't see a washer. I'm thinking it has an oring instead of a crush washer.

You are correct Sir. No washer needed. As you said...there is a permanent gasket inset in a reveal in the bolt itself.

I'll have to see is our local WaltonMart has the FL-500 S filter. I do know that they carry the Mobile 1 oil but its $26.00 for the 5 qt.

 

[xXANCHORMONXx]

You are correct Sir. No washer needed. As you said...there is a permanent gasket inset in a reveal in the bolt itself.

I'll have to see is our local WaltonMart has the FL-500 S filter. I do know that they carry the Mobile 1 oil but its $26.00 for the 5 qt.

Awesome, my 14 GMC is the same. Its a nice touch.

They have the filters on eBay for cheap. 6 or so shipped

 

[Todd15Fastback]

On the PP, the additional 1/2 qt is to compensate for the extra capacity of the oil cooler.

Interesting. Do you know if that is listed in any Ford documentation? I ask as I had Ford change my oil and it only listed 8 QT's on the invoice.

Guess I will skim my owners information tomorrow.

 

[Nanashii]

Interesting. Do you know if that is listed in any Ford documentation? I ask as I had Ford change my oil and it only listed 8 QT's on the invoice.

Guess I will skim my owners information tomorrow.

Not sure if it is listed anywhere. I will make sure to bring it up prior to my oil change. Check your dipstick and see where the oil is.

 

[TorkN8R]

Not sure if it is listed anywhere. I will make sure to bring it up prior to my oil change. Check your dipstick and see where the oil is.

All I can report is, I drained the pan and removed the filter. I let them both drain for a few hours. The new FL-500 filter ws a tad larger than the factory. That would account for a bit more oil.

Put it all back together, drove it for a few miles, (diffenantly not enough to burn a half qt on a new motor) Parked it over night, checked the dip stick several times, because I couldn't figure it out either. The dip stick was absolutely seated tight. Sure enough, 1/2 qt low or at least only half way up the hatched markings.

Added a 1/2 qt. It's been reading full now for the past week and 200 miles.

At least for my 2015 Mustang GT/PP , 8 and 1/2 Qts. Of oil for a proper oil change.

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