Manual shift knob and reverse collar gap

[BatmanJohnson]

I replaced my stock shift knob on my GT with a Ford performance shift knob (white one from Bullit/Mach 1) and noticed that there's a pretty big gap between the bottom of the shift knob and the reverse collar gap. The old shift knob spun way easier than the new shift knob. The new shift knob started having resistance after 3 turns while the stock one had almost none. I don't want to keep twisting the new one as I've already used quite a bit of force already. Is there a way to maybe raise the reverse collar instead?

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[GrabberBargeCaptain]

I found that on the mach1 knob as well. i just kept turning it till it bottomed out but it still not as flush as the stock knob.

Eventually i got a rattly buzz out of the shifter so i went back to the stock leather knob, but i still get it here and there, just not as bad (im at 4k miles).

 

[Keith S]

Mine ended up looking basically the same…

 

[GrabberBargeCaptain]

^ That's weird, i have the same MY as you too.

I think it just needs a jam nut if you want to use that shift knob. Included on many aftermarket shift knobs.

 

[jloshotz]

There may be a little thread locker in the threads, perhaps right at about the height where it was previously installed by the prior owner. I just did this over the weekend, also installing the Steeda aluminum reverse lockout collar, and I will say, using a jamb nut is the way to go. Make sure the shifter is in reverse, get the height right where it needs to be. You should still be able to lift the collar about an 1/8” with it in reverse. I found having the bottom of the jamb nut just at the top of the lockout collar to be perfect, that left the knob at about 15° off its proper alignment (so the shift pattern will be perfectly lined up when tight). This will take trial end error, spin it on and off as many times as you need to. Then I applied blue loctite to the threads where the nut is, and trailed a line right up the side of the threads. Hard to keep the jamb nut from moving, and want it to stay put as well. I then turned the knob down, gave it its final 15° turn to get it snug. Let it sit for a few hours, and perfect. Probably a way more detailed response than you were looking for, but hopefully it helps

 

[BatmanJohnson]

There may be a little thread locker in the threads, perhaps right at about the height where it was previously installed by the prior owner. I just did this over the weekend, also installing the Steeda aluminum reverse lockout collar, and I will say, using a jamb nut is the way to go. Make sure the shifter is in reverse, get the height right where it needs to be. You should still be able to lift the collar about an 1/8” with it in reverse. I found having the bottom of the jamb nut just at the top of the lockout collar to be perfect, that left the knob at about 15° off its proper alignment (so the shift pattern will be perfectly lined up when tight). This will take trial end error, spin it on and off as many times as you need to. Then I applied blue loctite to the threads where the nut is, and trailed a line right up the side of the threads. Hard to keep the jamb nut from moving, and want it to stay put as well. I then turned the knob down, gave it its final 15° turn to get it snug. Let it sit for a few hours, and perfect. Probably a way more detailed response than you were looking for, but hopefully it helps

Hmmm Alright, maybe I'll try to thread the shift knob off and try again. So weird though because the old one bottoms right out.

https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-7213-M8B

Did I order the wrong part? Can't be...

Also, what's the point of the jamb nut? I thought it's so you don't accidentally thread right through the shift knob no?

 

[Racin4ds]

Hmmm Alright, maybe I'll try to thread the shift knob off and try again. So weird though because the old one bottoms right out.

https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-7213-M8B

Did I order the wrong part? Can't be...

Also, what's the point of the jamb nut? I thought it's so you don't accidentally thread right through the shift knob no?

You're not going to thread it through the knob, I can assure you that! The threads are likely tapered and meant to get tight as you go further down (think pipe threads) so that you can perfectly index the pattern and NOT have to use a jam nut like the old days...

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