Explain the 1,000 mi oil change to me

[samson]

I notice a lot of member with new S650s have gotten their first oil change at 1,000 miles rather than waiting for the standard 5,000 mile mark. Can someone explain the rationale behind this? I've never done this on any of my cars but wondering if I should on my very first Mustang. Is the 1,000 mile oil change still needed these days or is it more of a holdover from older models? After the 1K change, is every 5K sufficient?

Also what oil do the Ford service departments use? Will they do full synthetic and is that recommended?

Thanks, from a Mustang noob...

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[Skye]

I feel the 1,000 mi / 1,600 km point is something some (many?) of us have gravitated to over time. The origins of that milestone come from Ford's statements in the Owners Manual related to the car's overall break-in period.

Should you change at the reference point above? This topic and oil type is something you're going to get a wide variety of feedback on. Above all, read Ford's guidance in the manual; this is your baseline. If you'd like to do better still, as a personal preference, do so.

I changed mine at 1,000 mi / 1,600 km for a few broad reasons:

- From machining and assembly, there's "junk" in the engine and now oil filter

- From the wear of break-in itself, the internals of the engine have shed material

- The mileage is a waypoint in the car's life and wear; it's something of a freshening up

- IMO, the factory fill is not what you get off the shelf, but shelf and break-in additives, both of which are now spent. I have not documented proof of this. Just a belief. See Motorcraft XL-17

- From first light, it will take several oil changes (2 to 3) to stabilize what you ultimately run on. For example, from factory fill to Motorcraft Synthetic, the overall effect will take a few changes. When you change the oil, close to a quart (and other junk), is still in the galleys, maybe a cooler. It'll take a bit of time to work out. So, one change at 1,000 / 1,600, then one or two more later, you see nothing but the oil you're consistently using, and it's working properties

But do you have to? No. Follow the Oil Life Monitor (OLM) and the Owner Manual. There is no requirement you change the oil at the point mentioned. If you'd like to as a step towards goodness, great. If not, follow Ford's plan. Millions of vehicles have done nothing more than follow the manual and they are still going strong.

Ford Dealers will use Motorcraft 5W-30, blend oil, unless the manual specifies something else. This oil is a mix of synthetic and dino. Dealers often give the option of using a Motorcraft synthetic, which is fine. Using either oil and keeping records will maintain the factory warranty.

If you'd like to use aftermarket oil and filter, you can do that to. Use items that meet or exceed Ford's guidance in the manual. Document with a receipt or photo. Update in Ford Pass App. Something. Anything that will confirm later (if needed) you have been changing the oil, when and what you used. Your warranty will be maintained.

Should you use a full synthetic? I like using synthetics over dino or blends for one reason: they are designed as an engine oil. Dino can and does work fine. But in extreme tolerances and conditions, synthetics can work better. Further, synthetics are detergent, good at keeping the insides of the engine clean over the long term.

Again, you'll get a lot of feedback on this. In summary, I changed mine at 1,000 mi / 1,600 km, am using full synthetic, 5W-30 and am now following the OLM and Owner Manual.

This broad topic also leans into the trans and diff; they've been breaking in to. Some change their fluids quite early. That's cool. But IMO, these devices do not see wash from fuel, condensation or encounter the same temperatures and stresses as the engine does. Further, many items these days, many manufacturers, use synthetics or long-life oil from the start. I'll be changing mine early (still don't know at what point), but not way early. As a reference, my truck says I never have to change the Manual Transmission (MT) oil, except under certain conditions. I change it every 30,000 mi / 48,000 km anyway. The Owner Manual is the baseline for when to change and what to use.

Finally, if you'd like to know how things are going, do an oil analysis at that first change (and others if you like). Most of us use Blackstone's service. You can get a sample kit for free and stow it for now. Analysis is like $30-35. Some of us get the test done. It's nice to know. And when/if the car is ever sold, it will give confidence to the buyer things are well.

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/

 

[Zig]

More along the lines of taking a look and let’s see if anything obvious is amok. Sometimes better to find now as opposed to later. Some (people) will also do an oil analysis at that time but keep in mind, break in results in fine wear and particles as a result - new engine additives etc.. An initial analysis (not required - some choose to pay to send it off) as a ‘baseline’ but not required. I think the manual mentions oil consumption, on average, normalizes around 3k miles (should really be hours but thats not as easy to calculate).

 

[Crew4991]

The 1k oil change interval is part of the "break in" period. This refers to getting any new vehicle where you won't want to thrash the car for the first 1k miles and then change the oil around 1000-1500 miles. The 1k oil change interval dates back to the era of engines that shed massive amounts of metal during break in. This is still relevant today to some degree for any new car but substantially less due to the advanced manufacturing process. It is recommended to do the 1k mile interval and drive normally - but if you simply forgot/ignored and changed at 5k you probably won't notice any issues. The 1k interval is highly recommended for properly maintaining the engine and getting it to last longer over the course of the vehicle's lifespan. If you change the oil yourself at the 1k mark you can notice fine metal shavings/specs in the oil. The main concern here is to not bash on the car the first 1k miles with quick accelerations and such... so drive your new sports car like you are a cute old granny. LOL

Now for those service departments... they vary from dealership on oil quality. If you ask me they all suck. The one's I have seen get a big drum of crappy oil for cheap and shove that low end oil in cars that come in for service. It is how the service department makes money. Changing oil is a very easy task to do so either do it yourself with a quality oil/filter or ask a friend/family member/local trusted mechanic to do it for you.

I hope this helps you understand the break in period and 1k mile oil change a bit better.

 

[samson]

I feel the 1,000 mi / 1,600 km point is something some (many?) of us have gravitated to over time. The origins of that milestone come from Ford's statements in the Owners Manual related to the car's overall break-in period.

Should you change at the reference point above? This topic and oil type is something you're going to get a wide variety of feedback on. Above all, read Ford's guidance in the manual; this is your baseline. If you'd like to do better still, as a personal preference, do so.

I changed mine at 1,000 mi / 1,600 km for a few broad reasons:

- From machining and assembly, there's "junk" in the engine and now oil filter

- From the wear of break-in itself, the internals of the engine have shed material

- The mileage is a waypoint in the car's life and wear; it's something of a freshening up

- IMO, the factory fill is not what you get off the shelf, but shelf and break-in additives, both of which are now spent. I have not documented proof of this. Just a belief. See Motorcraft XL-17

- From first light, it will take several oil changes (2 to 3) to stabilize what you ultimately run on. For example, from factory fill to Motorcraft Synthetic, the overall effect will take a few changes. When you change the oil, close to a quart (and other junk), is still in the galleys, maybe a cooler. It'll take a bit of time to work out. So, one change at 1,000 / 1,600, then one or two more later, you see nothing but the oil you're consistently using, and it's working properties

But do you have to? No. Follow the Oil Life Monitor (OLM) and the Owner Manual. There is no requirement you change the oil at the point mentioned. If you'd like to as a step towards goodness, great. If not, follow Ford's plan. Millions of vehicles have done nothing more than follow the manual and they are still going strong.

Ford Dealers will use Motorcraft 5W-30, blend oil, unless the manual specifies something else. This oil is a mix of synthetic and dino. Dealers often give the option of using a Motorcraft synthetic, which is fine. Using either oil and keeping records will maintain the factory warranty.

If you'd like to use aftermarket oil and filter, you can do that to. Use items that meet or exceed Ford's guidance in the manual. Document with a receipt or photo. Update in Ford Pass App. Something. Anything that will confirm later (if needed) you have been changing the oil, when and what you used. Your warranty will be maintained.

Should you use a full synthetic? I like using synthetics over dino or blends for one reason: they are designed as an engine oil. Dino can and does work fine. But in extreme tolerances and conditions, synthetics can work better. Further, synthetics are detergent, good at keeping the insides of the engine clean over the long term.

Again, you'll get a lot of feedback on this. In summary, I changed mine at 1,000 mi / 1,600 km, am using full synthetic, 5W-30 and am now following the OLM and Owner Manual.

This broad topic also leans into the trans and diff; they've been breaking in to. Some change their fluids quite early. That's cool. But IMO, these devices do not see wash from fuel, condensation or encounter the same temperatures and stresses as the engine does. Further, many items these days, many manufacturers, use synthetics or long-life oil from the start. I'll be changing mine early (still don't know at what point), but not way early. As a reference, my truck says I never have to change the Manual Transmission (MT) oil, except under certain conditions. I change it every 30,000 mi / 48,000 km anyway. The Owner Manual is the baseline for when to change and what to use.

Finally, if you'd like to know how things are going, do an oil analysis at that first change (and others if you like). Most of us use Blackstone's service. You can get a sample kit for free and stow it for now. Analysis is like $30-35. Some of us get the test done. It's nice to know. And when/if the car is ever sold, it will give confidence to the buyer things are well.

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/

This is terrific information. Thanks for posting. Seems to me that no harm can come from a 1K mile oil change (except to the wallet), but some good can come from it. I am leaning towards getting it done at 1,000 mile I was just trying to understand the benefits.

I work from home so I don't expect to put more than maybe 5-6K miles on this car a year. For my situation do you think going full synthetic would be a good approach? Like is synthetic better than blend for a car that doesn't get a ton of miles driven on it and can sit for stretches?

 

[roadpilot]

More along the lines of taking a look and let’s see if anything obvious is amok. Sometimes better to find now as opposed to later. Some (people) will also do an oil analysis at that time but keep in mind, break in results in fine wear and particles as a result - new engine additives etc.. An initial analysis (not required - some choose to pay to send it off) as a ‘baseline’ but not required. I think the manual mentions oil consumption, on average, normalizes around 3k miles (should really be hours but thats not as easy to calculate).

^This.

Blackstone Labs is your engine's friend.

 

[robvas]

Has anyone done an oil analysis at 1,000 miles, or cut a filter open to see what's in there at that time?

Some people recommend doing it before 1,000 miles, or doing it again at 2-3,000

 

[jimbo67]

My first oil change was at 735. Just was a convenient time for me. Here is the Blackstone report.

 

[Zig]

My first oil change was at 735. Just was a convenient time for me. Here is the Blackstone report.


Missed a spot or two

 

[jimbo67]

Missed a spot or two

Damn it haha, also my car had 56 miles when I drove it off the lot.

 

[Zig]

..also my car had 56 miles when I drove it off the lot.

Thats lower than 69

 

[jimbo67]

I edited my reply to remove the attach in case you wanted to update.

Its all good. But thanks. As long as I don't miss any spots on the car I am painting at the moment lol.

 

[Bikeman315]

This is terrific information. Thanks for posting. Seems to me that no harm can come from a 1K mile oil change (except to the wallet), but some good can come from it. I am leaning towards getting it done at 1,000 mile I was just trying to understand the benefits.

I work from home so I don't expect to put more than maybe 5-6K miles on this car a year. For my situation do you think going full synthetic would be a good approach? Like is synthetic better than blend for a car that doesn't get a ton of miles driven on it and can sit for stretches?

My 19’ GT/CS just turned five years old and 15,000 miles. Boulevard cruiser with no track use. Oil gets changed at 5000 miles or one year. Always use syn blend. Oil always comes out clean and with no issues. Did the same with my 15’ EB with 51,000 miles. This was my work daily (75 miles a day).

A modern car doesn’t need more but do whatever makes you feel good. I don’t like throwing out money. By the way I grew up changing my oil every 2000 miles. Car tech has evolved a lot since the 70’s.

 

[Skye]

For my situation do you think going full synthetic would be a good approach? Like is synthetic better than blend for a car that doesn't get a ton of miles driven on it and can sit for stretches?

Long-term, I feel synthetics present benefits over dino, in several ways. So, yes, given the option, I'd take a synthetic.

Regarding infrequent use, that's OK.

It's another topic entirely, and another thread, but read up on battery tenders. It'd be worthwhile to set the car up for using one.

When you do drive the car, always drive long enough to get the engine up to full operating temperature. Given the choice of driving the car several times a week, but for a few minutes (IDK, 10-15) at a time, versus once every two weeks for an hour straight, I'd take the latter.

Short, "cold" drives encounter two conditions, at least:

- Fuel wash. The car naturally runs rich when first warming up; this additional amount of fuel mixes with the oil and weakens it. We all encounter it, but people who drive these "cold" stints accumulate much more of it

- Sulfur Dioxide is a natural by-product of burning dino fuels. When mixed with condensation from frequent, cold drives, it becomes a light sulfuric acid which attacks surfaces, seals and oils

Edit: longer drives gift additional benefits:

- Components are heat-treated, "seasoned", over time. They start cold, come up to temp and later cool down

- All fluids in all sections circulate really well, especially the car's coolant system

 

[JollyPedro]

I worked on helicopters, HH-60's and CV-22's, for over 20 years and guess what.....Not once did we have to change the oil after a break in run, lol! (Turbo shaft engines move a bit faster also) This is a waste of money, IMO, as the manufacture would require it if it was an issue. The metal flakes (called "swarf" by the way) would be extremely negligible in the standard, mass produced engine. Save your money for premium gas ladies and gents!

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