Engine rebuild suggestions

ahl395 · Nov 3, 2017

Hey guys,

Unfortunately on the way home today, I believe my 5th cylinder ate itself. At WOT I had some wheel spin, rev limiter pegged at 8k even after I let off the gas, fireworks out the tailpipe, and now running rough with a Cylinder 5 misfire code. I have yet to do a compression test but I think its pretty clear my engine is toast. :(

Just looking for some opinions and suggestions on what to do next. I want to build the motor for 1000+whp (I dont want to do this again). If you guys have any suggestions as to what to get, what to look for, etc. I'd appreciate it as I know very little technical details on this subject.

I will be bringing the car to PSI Proformance in PA for the work, they do engine and machine work all in house so I think that would be cheaper than a new shortblock. I see MMR has a rotating assembly kit for 1500hp for $2900, seems like a good deal

Any suggestions as for what parts or specs to ask for is appreciated

SoCalTim · Nov 3, 2017

Did you jinx yourself in the 'anyone regret going FI' thread? Earlier today you said you were waiting for the engine to fail next! Sorry to hear your engine looks to have take a turn for the worst.

Also looking out for info on a solid shortblock, as that is in my future. Hoping to throw one in before mine takes a crap down the line.

ahl395 · Nov 3, 2017

SoCalTim said:
Did you jinx yourself in the 'anyone regret going FI' thread? Earlier today you said you were waiting for the engine to fail next! Sorry to hear your engine looks to have take a turn for the worst.

Also looking out for info on a solid shortblock, as that is in my future. Hoping to throw one in before mine takes a crap down the line.

Seriously man, I really did :lol: :frusty:

Also curious if there's a difference between building for a certain hp level and building for a certain boost level. I'd like to be able to see 16-17psi without worrying too much (aside from fuelling issues). Not sure if that changes anything.

sigintel · Nov 3, 2017

Damn dude.
Sorry to hear.
It was still worth it though yea?
Check for any blockage in the cats?
Junkyard motor swap?

ahl395 · Nov 3, 2017

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sigintel said:
Damn dude.
Sorry to hear.
It was still worth it though yea?
Check for any blockage in the cats?
Junkyard motor swap?

No cats already.

Although that would be the cheapest way out I want to build the engine so I don't have to worry about this happening again. The positive side is I'll be able to turn up the boost and timing once I get my methanol Injection system in.

Still worth it, but it's riding close on the edge :lol:

Tommy V · Nov 3, 2017

How many miles were on your motor??Dam man sorry to hear this,someone must have put a hex on u like they did to me.This year has been a nightmare for things breaking for me.My 2017 has 1k miles when the convertor broke.

Boduke0220 · Nov 3, 2017

I'm no motor Guru but some good I beams, diamond pistons and darton sleeves seems to be the way to go from what I've seen on several built coyotes. PM Burnin4 he had a nice motor that handled 1100whp and a lot of 1/2 mile pulls

higdominator · Nov 3, 2017

Ive been looking around and contemplating this as well. It's hard to pass up the idea of tossing in upgraded rods, pistons, rings, and bearings in your stock shortblock and moving on. I was fighting with that idea as well but another part of me questions that approach.

If I am investing the time and money to put a new motor in, I don't want any questions as to what I will be able to throw at it. Will good rods and pistons take 100whp? yes, but then you could fatigue the factory sleeves and be right back at square 1 some day but with another big expense and a loss of your initial investment.

I think I have reached a compromise of a minimum sleeved block so I will be comfortable running 1K whp, and that is where I will have to stay. I want to be able to beat on the car now and then and not worry, so pay the little extra up front for piece of mind and have stress free fun.

So..

Who has the best bang for your buck sleeved short block?

5.oh · Nov 3, 2017

ahl395 said:
Seriously man, I really did :lol: :frusty:

Also curious if there's a difference between building for a certain hp level and building for a certain boost level. I'd like to be able to see 16-17psi without worrying too much (aside from fuelling issues). Not sure if that changes anything.

HP breaks things not PSI. For a boosted application PSI is relative, CFM is more important. think about something like a t25 turbo running 10 PSI vs a 91mm turbo running 10PSI. The CFM is completely different. Build the motor for the power you want to make.

ahl395 · Nov 3, 2017

Tommy V said:
How many miles were on your motor??Dam man sorry to hear this,someone must have put a hex on u like they did to me.This year has been a nightmare for things breaking for me.My 2017 has 1k miles when the convertor broke.

24k on the motor, supercharged since 6k

Yeah I hear you man, my converter broke around 10k. After reading about this engine handing boost so well I haven't been so lucky lol

Boduke0220 said:
I'm no motor Guru but some good I beams, diamond pistons and darton sleeves seems to be the way to go from what I've seen on several built coyotes. PM Burnin4 he had a nice motor that handled 1100whp and a lot of 1/2 mile pulls

Okay thanks, I'll keep these in mind

higdominator said:
Ive been looking around and contemplating this as well. It's hard to pass up the idea of tossing in upgraded rods, pistons, rings, and bearings in your stock shortblock and moving on. I was fighting with that idea as well but another part of me questions that approach.

If I am investing the time and money to put a new motor in, I don't want any questions as to what I will be able to throw at it. Will good rods and pistons take 100whp? yes, but then you could fatigue the factory sleeves and be right back at square 1 some day but with another big expense and a loss of your initial investment.

I think I have reached a compromise of a minimum sleeved block so I will be comfortable running 1K whp, and that is where I will have to stay. I want to be able to beat on the car now and then and not worry, so pay the little extra up front for piece of mind and have stress free fun.

So..

Who has the best bang for your buck sleeved short block?

Hmm, you do have a point. In reality I will probably not go over 800 since I'm stuck with 93+methanol. But I do want the capability. Can my block be sleeved? Or does that require a all new block?

5.oh said:
HP breaks things not PSI. For a boosted application PSI is relative, CFM is more important. think about something like a t25 turbo running 10 PSI vs a 91mm turbo running 10PSI. The CFM is completely different. Build the motor for the power you want to make.

Got it, thanks for the clarification.

On another note, I was actually doing a WOT log at the time. So for the hell of it I'm going to send it to Lund and see why they think the revs pegged at 8 with no throttle. I know my wheels spun but not for that long.

isedawishy · Nov 3, 2017

MPR for an assembled unit or MMR for parts and have your own builder assemble

Tommy V · Nov 3, 2017

ahl395 said:
24k on the motor, supercharged since 6k

Yeah I hear you man, my converter broke around 10k. After reading about this engine handing boost so well I haven't been so lucky lol

Okay thanks, I'll keep these in mind

Hmm, you do have a point. In reality I will probably not go over 800 since I'm stuck with 93+methanol. But I do want the capability. Can my block be sleeved? Or does that require a all new block?

Got it, thanks for the clarification.

On another note, I was actually doing a WOT log at the time. So for the hell of it I'm going to send it to Lund and see why they think the revs pegged at 8 with no throttle. I know my wheels spun but not for that long.

I don't really like how slow throttle reaction is with the auto either.When my convertor broke I was at wot,convertor broke at about 6k rpms,after it I heard it break I let off and the car still held wot for at least 2 seconds after that and bounced off the limited 3 or 4 times.Thought for sure something was hurt in the motor,but got lucky.

ahl395 · Nov 3, 2017

Tommy V said:
I don't really like how slow throttle reaction is with the auto either.When my convertor broke I was at wot,convertor broke at about 6k rpms,after it I heard it break I let off and the car still held wot for at least 2 seconds after that and bounced off the limited 3 or 4 times.Thought for sure something was hurt in the motor,but got lucky.

I'm thinking when the wheels spun that the converter unlocked for some reason which shot the rpms up. Just a guess, hoping Lund can tell me.

whatsup62 · Nov 3, 2017

Not that it has anything to do with your failure just curious what boost you were running and brand of oil and weight?

kcc0521 · Nov 3, 2017

ahl395 said:
I'm thinking when the wheels spun that the converter unlocked for some reason which shot the rpms up. Just a guess, hoping Lund can tell me.

Jon told me that the car will unlock the converter if the car spins in the street. If i were building and engine i would go with a sleeved block and only use a builder that is known in the coyote world. It is too much money to trust it with just anyone. You should be able to use your stock block. You can also buy a a stock shortblock for 2500 new from ford.

Engine rebuild suggestions

ahl395

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SoCalTim

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ahl395

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sigintel

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ahl395

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Tommy V

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Boduke0220

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higdominator

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5.oh

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ahl395

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isedawishy

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Tommy V

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ahl395

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whatsup62

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kcc0521

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