Helix P-Six Amplifier

After installing the JL audio 600/6 last year,I said I would never do it again.
It is pure torture working under that dashboard.But,I am not one to leave things alone.The JL amp has 75 watts per channel,and that is just barely enough for the hertz speakers.They like power!So out comes the JL and in goes the Helix.

This is built by in germany and it is like a tank.A serious piece of equipment.
It has 6 channels with 120 watts @ 4 ohms,and 230 watts @ 2 ohms.It is a full DSP that has time alignment,phase,crossover slopes and eq for each channel.In a nutshell,you can configure it anyway you can dream up.No longer are there any roadblocks when it comes to tuning it in.This unit also has 2 outputs and remote turn-on for a subwoofer,which is the next project.
I did not take alot of pictures,but if you have followed my other thread it is in the factory location.It is so tight in there I would not suggest it unless you have fabrication experience.The JL was a tight fit and this thing is about 3/8" of an inch wider.

Also the rca jacks are now right against the firewall requiring 90* rca cables.I did re-use my breakout box but made a separate one just for the rca cables.




Here is a screenshot of the software.


I only gave it a quick setup on sunday,and I can tell already that this thing is going to sing!This weekend I will set the mic up and really give it a tune.
I know it seems pricey,but if you add up the price of a good amp and then some form of DSP plus wiring and the frustration of setting it up you are very close to the price of this badboy.I dont know why more companies do not have these features implemented yet,maybe in the near future.

I will keep this thread updated as I make more progress.

Jeff

Congrats on a fine piece of audio! Helix processing power is freaking awesome!

Nice job! I've used their processor once. I personally use (well... if I ever install it again) the Audison Bit.1 because I have access to the Bit.Tune that'll tune it 90% for me. The Helix stuff is top notch kit!

Thanks guys.I have been drooling over this piece for a few months now.I was not going to touch the system again,but the tweaker in me can not stop.
I am hoping to achieve acceptable results with the passive crossovers still in place.If not,off with the door panels AGAIN and set it up as active.Right now I am trying to research a good frequency range for the rear fill speakers.I am going to try around 300-4000 hz ,but if anyone has some input I am all ears.Some say shut them off,others say sum them to mono and let them play a fill-in range.

Racemaster said:

Thanks guys.I have been drooling over this piece for a few months now.I was not going to touch the system again,but the tweaker in me can not stop.
I am hoping to achieve acceptable results with the passive crossovers still in place.If not,off with the door panels AGAIN and set it up as active.Right now I am trying to research a good frequency range for the rear fill speakers.I am going to try around 300-4000 hz ,but if anyone has some input I am all ears.Some say shut them off,others say sum them to mono and let them play a fill-in range.

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First off, congrats on a great piece of hardware, I'm using a DSP-Pro myself...
I'm curious about your speaker configuration... you say you still have the passive xovers in place? It seems to me that will limit your ability to use the xover/time alignment features of your Helix to its fullest...

Update Time!
Now that the subwoofer project is finished,this is the last piece of the puzzle.
I have set the gain on the sub amp to blend with the front stage.But there are times on some songs when it needs either a tad more or less bass.
TADA! Here comes the URC.3 from audiotec.It has 2 gain knobs and a push button switch all of which can be configured in the software to control whatever you like.

Finding a good place to mount it was another problem.We have airbags for the knee's so it is not so easy to just screw it up under there.
So I whipped up an offset bracket that catches the metal of the dash,not the plastic that houses the airbag assembly.


Here is the unit mounted.The unit is small and not near your legs when your driving.You do have to stretch some to reach it,but it's not often.


I set mine up to adjust the main gain on the left knob and the subwoofer gain on the right knob.The switch I have set for 2 different sound setups.
The first setup is 24db linkwitz crossovers,and the second setup is a 12db butterworth crossovers.The 24db sounds cleaner on most songs,but sometimes I prefer the butterworth as it has more an analogue sound to my ears.

I am still tuning when I have the time,but it is sounding real good now with the sub dialed in.The sub may very well be the most important upgrade that is needed to get a full rounded sound with some punch.

How did you connect it to sync to retain factory controls, handsfree, etc?

terion said:

How did you connect it to sync to retain factory controls, handsfree, etc?

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All of the above is in no way affected when you don't change the radio, but only the amp/dsp in the drivers kickpanel.

Cathul said:

All of the above is in no way affected when you don't change the radio, but only the amp/dsp in the drivers kickpanel.

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Hm. I don't get it. As far as I know with factory-amplified setup (shaker, B&O) radio outputs linear audio signal that is routed to amplifier and volume control is sent to amp digitally via separate bus. Is this not how it works? If not then what is purpose of fancy devices like iDatalink, DSR1, etc?

terion said:

Hm. I don't get it. As far as I know with factory-amplified setup (shaker, B&O) radio outputs linear audio signal that is routed to amplifier and volume control is sent to amp digitally via separate bus. Is this not how it works? If not then what is purpose of fancy devices like iDatalink, DSR1, etc?

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Shaker has a variable line output from the ACM. Same with the B&O system in the Mustang (and unlike like the F150 f.e.).
The idatalink devices are for ease of integration, because not everyone wants to make its own harnesses and stuff.
PAC-Audio doesn’t support the Mustang btw, due to the variable line output.

Cathul said:

Shaker has a variable line output from the ACM. Same with the B&O system in the Mustang (and unlike like the F150 f.e.).
The idatalink devices are for ease of integration, because not everyone wants to make its own harnesses and stuff.
PAC-Audio doesn’t support the Mustang btw, due to the variable line output.

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oh, really?
and where is processing/equalization/crossing done? also in acm? and if I want to get a better processing with an aftermarket dsp and all this stuff then how should it be?

In the amplifier. To get better processing power you need to get an aftermarket DSP or DSP/amplifier like the Helix, the Audisons, Arc Audio, Kicker IQ, JL TwK-88, JL VXi or whatever suits your budget and fees it with the variable low level output of your ACM as described in the sticky at the top of this sub forum.