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How to reduce IAT's, improve flow & positive pressure with PMAS & other open CAI's

Gibbo205

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Hi there


Though happy with my PMAS for the extra performance and sound improvements it offers I was not particular happy about the very high IAT's compared to stock I was getting even with my opened up stock grill and velossa big mouth. So I went on the mission on how to get the IAT's back down to similar levels as the stock air box whilst not impacting flow and trying to also to reduce negative air pressure.

The best CAI will offer great flow, positive air pressure (ram air) and low IATs. The PMAS has high IATs as it has no snorkel to pull air from outside the engine bay and has negative air pressure due to its open design, on the flip side it has fantastic flow. PMAS did not do the below because it would make cost higher and install a lot hard, they designed a good intake to sell huge volumes off, which they have succeeded but it can for sure be improved upon.


A modification I made as soon as I got the car with the stock air box was to open up the front grill honeycombs and also fit a velossa big mouth to ensure only exterior colder denser air entered the air box, even better it was rammed in causing ram air effect on stock air box:





So I enlarged the PMAS heatshield front opening to accommodate the GT350 snorkel which I got from JDM for $38 as the PMAS comes with no snorkel from the factory as PMAS state the snorkel restricts flow on a standard car. From a discussion with PMAS they did say on a car with the grill opened up this may not be the case.







With the grill fully opened the car almost no longer needs to suck air through the opening because air is being forced into the heatshield and pressure increasing as momentum increases of the vehicle. Then to guarantee I was improving flow I made additional opening in the heatshield on cool wing side, same as Whipple air intake has and then a further opening in the bottom of the air box.

So I had the flow sorted by doubling size of the orifice in the heatshield compared to stock. So now I wanted to try and reduce the negative air pressure, it will never become positive (ram air) like a sealed intake but I can certainly reduce the negative pressure which is beneficial.

So I ran ducting from the air box to some brake cooling ducts I got and then put them on the areas of the car that see the most air flow, the lower front grill and underneath the car.



Removed Steed front splitter, large brake cooling duct glued in place:







Dremeled front lower grill and clipped into place another brake cooling duct:





Ducting was ran from these ducts directing into the PMAS heatshield, in essence the intake is not trying to suck air through holes simply because the air is being rammed in, so like push pull:







Then I discovered JLT are now supplying a foam insert with their latest revision of their CAI stating it helped reduce IAT, so I found some dense fire proof foam and cut it too shape, its not prettiest thing to look at, but the PMAS is the ugly ducking anyway and to remove take seconds for shows:





A better image of the ducting, I also smoke tested and all three ducts flow into the air box very well:





Some images of the final product, the ducting is very subtle and looks almost oem, those with USA lower frill could simply cable tie the ducting behind the grill, making install a little easier:







Bear in mind the above modifications can work for any intake and improving flow, increasing air pressure and lowering IAT's is only ever a good thing. The under car duct that goes into wing side of the air box would be ideal for Whipple air box which has the side already opened to further reduce IAT and create more positive pressure at speed to help feed the blower.

In short my PMAS now gives me similar IAT's to what my stock air box did which was improved with the open grill and Velossa big mouth which are 1-2c above ambient on highway, 3-5c above ambient on city driving and now when stopping at stop lights it takes a long time to hit 10c above and infact tends to hold at 6-8c at stop light and when pulling away heavy throttle is not required to bring temperatures right back down.

Might be placebo but the car feels stronger than ever, the throttle is snappier its so sharp and sensitive and if I floor it in 5th at 70mph the car absolutely pulls like a train, feels stronger on the high way for sure. Could be effect of the improved flow and increased air pressure, or just placebo. :lol:

I am happy, I have shared my findings, I am sure some will comment that PMAS removed the snorkel because it limited flow in their testing, well yes of course it would but with the above done the flow is further improved. Also PMAS built an intake to hit a great low price, spending R&D on snorkels and more complex air box / heatshield would increase the cost of the unit and make it more expensive.

Nothing is perfect and anything can be improved upon, that is why we mod because for us we have one aim, our own targets.


I plan to hit dyno soon and I shall do a dyno with hood up and all ducts disconnected from PMAS, this should yield best results with hood up. I shall then re-connect ducts/snorkels and put hood down and re-run. :)
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Rebellion

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Gibbo205 is the true IAT master! makes me start thinking like an engineer (which I actually am, just not related to cars).

Just thoughts...wouldn't it be better if you did an entire grill delete instead of just the ram section? It would alter the aerodynamics a bit, but definitely it would be more cooling for the engine and ultimately, IAT. Coupled with the biggest radiator you can find, lower fan setpoint, and thermostat, there should be some improvement.

Not a fan of the car looking all asymmetrical, wouldn't it be nice if you delete the fog lights and make ducts from there? Also, thinking about pulling air from the splitter, would water and other stuff get pulled towards the filter?

I had thought about putting more gasketing material on the airbox edges, like those for AC hoses...and making a full circle on the JLT foam insert. Just ideas, I haven't even bought a CAI yet.
 
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Gibbo205

Gibbo205

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Gibbo205 is the true IAT master! makes me start thinking like an engineer (which I actually am, just not related to cars).

Just thoughts...wouldn't it be better if you did an entire grill delete instead of just the ram section? It would alter the aerodynamics a bit, but definitely it would be more cooling for the engine and ultimately, IAT. Coupled with the biggest radiator you can find, lower fan setpoint, and thermostat, there should be some improvement.

Not a fan of the car looking all asymmetrical, wouldn't it be nice if you delete the fog lights and make ducts from there? Also, thinking about pulling air from the splitter, would water and other stuff get pulled towards the filter?

I had thought about putting more gasketing material on the airbox edges, like those for AC hoses...and making a full circle on the JLT foam insert. Just ideas, I haven't even bought a CAI yet.

Having a full open grill delete would do little for IAT's now, remember engines love cooler/denser air, this air is outside your engine bay, not within it, so you want to channel it to the air filter best way you can, I believe my way accomplishes this. ;)

However a full open grill delete will help cool the entire engine bay area so in theory this would help reduce CHT temperatures so if you have CHT temperatures issues a full grill delete would help. Also remember to aid in reducing CHT temperatures reduce your anti freeze mixture to something like 60% water, 40% coolant and add a bottle of water wetter. Bear in mind reducing anti-freeze mixture will mean your coolant will only be good for down to around -25c, so only advisable in warmer states. :)

The only issue with a full open grill is more air enters under the hood increasing pressure and in turn this causes more lift, the most likely first signs of this shall be hood shake at highway speed, extend the rubber stops to try and stop the shake and in extreme cases at higher speed more lift in the front due to air pressure will reduce grip, but I seriously doubt anyone would notice this.

A way of having best of both worlds with a grill delete to get lots of air in under the hood is to then give it a place to escape easily, so a massive hole in the hood, aka hood vents. This is why race cars have hood and fender vents, it helps with aero dynamics, engine cooling and brake cooling. :)
 

armykyle1 [HACKED ACCOUNT

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Very nice write up. I think I'll look into the gt350 snorkel, even though that will be a difficult modification on the steeda intake. The secondary pickup is a fantastic idea too.
 

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Gibbo205

Gibbo205

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Very nice write up. I think I'll look into the gt350 snorkel, even though that will be a difficult modification on the steeda intake. The secondary pickup is a fantastic idea too.

I just cut the hole large enough in the PMAS heatshield, then drilled some holes around the opening and used cable ties to hold it into place. It should then push up snug against the OEM rubber snorkel in the bumper.
 

Vinny@JLTPerformance

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Even if you don't run our kit the amount of time and effort you put into this is impressive.

Hopefully these forum members will appreciate it and not bash you :)

Nice job.
 
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Gibbo205

Gibbo205

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Even if you don't run our kit the amount of time and effort you put into this is impressive.

Hopefully these forum members will appreciate it and not bash you :)

Nice job.

Well apart from my own time and effort the cost has being some ducting and some brake cooling ducts. For me that is worth it when it improves flow and reduces negative air pressure and IAT. :)

Also to note I would do this with any open CAI on the market not just PMAS and like I said it would also work fantastic with Whipples CAI as the whole wing side on the Whipple heat shield is open. :)
 

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I'd be curious to see how much gain on a CAI is from the intake elbow and how much is from the open cone filter.

I've noticed a good gain from my Airaid elbow and aFe panel filter ... personally for me I'm not sure I'd gain much more by adding a cone filter into the equation.
 
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Gibbo205

Gibbo205

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I'd be curious to see how much gain on a CAI is from the intake elbow and how much is from the open cone filter.

I've noticed a good gain from my Airaid elbow and aFe panel filter ... personally for me I'm not sure I'd gain much more by adding a cone filter into the equation.
I actually dynod the airaid modular intake tube vs stock tube, there was no gains in power and no changes to the curve. Afe dry pro filter was used on both runs and the car was on JDM tune on both runs.

The airaid module intake tube did nothing for power, but it did improve throttle response.

In theory a cone filter will increase power if the car is flow limited. The increases in power come from intake tubes with larger maf tube diameters, this allows for more air hence the maf tables being different in the tune and this yields extra power.

If I was a gambling man I'd say 7-10WHP comes from a larger maf tube diameter and a good flowing oiled cone filter is probably worth 4-7WHP.
 

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I actually dynod the airaid modular intake tube vs stock tube, there was no gains in power and no changes to the curve. Afe dry pro filter was used on both runs and the car was on JDM tune on both runs.

The airaid module intake tube did nothing for power, but it did improve throttle response.

In theory a cone filter will increase power if the car is flow limited. The increases in power come from intake tubes with larger maf tube diameters, this allows for more air hence the maf tables being different in the tune and this yields extra power.

If I was a gambling man I'd say 7-10WHP comes from a larger maf tube diameter and a good flowing oiled cone filter is probably worth 4-7WHP.
With you having the more restrictive stock headers that will definitely decrease overall airflow demands so probably 10-12whp and similar torque max gains but more once you put in your long tubes.
 

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Um, excuse me if i missed it somewhere. But this looks like an excellent vacuum for water on the road. Or small puddles for that matter. Unless you live in the desert i think this wouldn't be advisable to do.
 

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I actually dynod the airaid modular intake tube vs stock tube, there was no gains in power and no changes to the curve. Afe dry pro filter was used on both runs and the car was on JDM tune on both runs.

The airaid module intake tube did nothing for power, but it did improve throttle response.
Interesting. The thing about dyno's is they only measure performance changes at WOT/full throttle and although I love those increases, I'd put equal, if not more, importance on part throttle performance improvements and I can say I felt that with the Airaid MIT ... and granted throttle response is a plus in my book.

Now the 93 tune gave me BOTH so that's the best bang by far! :D
 

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Um, excuse me if i missed it somewhere. But this looks like an excellent vacuum for water on the road. Or small puddles for that matter. Unless you live in the desert i think this wouldn't be advisable to do.
I'm pretty sure Gibbo doesn't have it connected directly to the engine so there's no vacuum pull at all. It's just a conduit as a cooler air source.
 

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Thanks for the pictures/ideas thrown out there for everyone to consider. It is never a bad thing to lower IATs. I'm not sure if it will make a difference in hp, but if flow isn't restricted this sure won't hurt. Looking at pictures of the PMAS, I thought of closing off the top in a similar manner as you. To me, that area looks like a high heat source. When I actually get my hands on the intake I may try that. Maybe closing that off and opening the front of the box by an equal amount would offset restriction?
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