Steeda Vertical Link Install Write-up

Project Whitemare · Dec 17, 2015

STEEDA BILLET ALUMINUM VERTICAL LINKS

Tools Needed:
15mm Socket
18mm Socket
3/8" Drive Ratchet
Rubber Mallet

Difficulty Level:
2 out of 12 Beers

Parts List:
(2) Billet Aluminum Vertical Links
(4) Washers
(2) Energy Suspension Grease

Preparation:
Use Steeda Jacking Rails to raise the rear end of the car and place it on jackstands. Remove rear wheels.

Video:

[ame]

Installation:

With the rear on jackstands, pull out the Steeda Vertical Links and inspect your parts.

To insure that the lower control arm doesn't move when removing the OEM vertical link, place a jack under the rear knuckle where the toe link is mounted. Just enough to support the weight.

Remove the 18mm bolt from the bottom of the OEM vertical link.

Remove the 15mm bolt from the top of the vertical link and be sure to grab the retaining nut off the back of this bolt.

Moderate use of man muscle will be needed to wrestle the OEM vertical link from the grasp of the Lower Control Arm. A screw driver will also help as pry tool.

Obligatory pic of our flimsy lady link next to the man link that is the Steeda Billet Aluminum Vertical Link.

Sure these will get your ass down to the store to pick up some milk, but if you have higher demands for your car, than this upgrade is a must.

Now you wanna rip open one of the packs of Energy Suspension Grease and cream pie those bushings!!
Be sure to apply the grease on the inside and outside of the washers guys.

The vertical link will take a bit of persuasion to get into alignment with the bottom hole. This is when the 2nd beer comes in, and where the rubber mallet comes in handy.

Gently massage the vertical link into place, and be sure that you fully seat the upper bushing into the recess before torquing the 15 bolt to 76 ft/lbs and the 18mm bolt to 129 ft/lbs.

Repeat the process for the other side and installation is complete!

David@Steeda · Dec 17, 2015

Yes! Sweet write-up, Nick! Very informative and much appreciated

Gibbo205 · Dec 18, 2015

Good work

Legionofone · Dec 19, 2015

If you drop the lower control arm you can get the bottom part in easier, then you just jack it up and it will pop into the top slot.

David@Steeda · Dec 19, 2015

Can't wait to see the vid!

ThirtyThreePointThree · Dec 20, 2015

So a helpful hint I just figured out for taking the OEM links out. I used a rubber mallet and hammered downwards. Be careful not to cause the link to hit your rotor and it just comes right out!

David@Steeda · Dec 21, 2015

Nice to see others posting helpful install tips!

Project Whitemare · Dec 27, 2015

Just finished the install video:

[ame]

Todd15Fastback · Dec 27, 2015

Nice job, Nick!!

jefc73 · Jan 21, 2016

Nice vid and write up Nick. @Project Whitemare Getting mine done today. Oh ya gettin it done. :thumbsup:

jdoug · Jan 21, 2016

I'm surprised no one else has asked the obligatory "have you noticed any difference" question, so here it is. There seems to be some debate on the importance of changing the vertical links. I mean, sure, the Steeda ones are far superior, but how much of an actual difference can you feel when driving? Also, do you already have other IRS subframe support to combat wheel hop, such as the bushing spacers, alignment sleeves, and differential bushings? Just trying to figure out where in the pecking order these links fall into when upgrading the rear since I'm just starting down that path.

David@Steeda · Jan 22, 2016

jdoug said:
I'm surprised no one else has asked the obligatory "have you noticed any difference" question, so here it is. There seems to be some debate on the importance of changing the vertical links. I mean, sure, the Steeda ones are far superior, but how much of an actual difference can you feel when driving? Also, do you already have other IRS subframe support to combat wheel hop, such as the bushing spacers, alignment sleeves, and differential bushings? Just trying to figure out where in the pecking order these links fall into when upgrading the rear since I'm just starting down that path.

Hey bud, as some others have mentioned we'd recommend our other IRS components first and install these as one of the last few mods. They certainly perform better than the factory links, especially when launching the car, although you'd notice more of an immediate difference in wheel hop reduction if you installed the subframe support braces and bushing support system (with alignment kit) first.

jefc73 · Jan 22, 2016

David@Steeda said:
Hey bud, as some others have mentioned we'd recommend our other IRS components first and install these as one of the last few mods. They certainly perform better than the factory links, especially when launching the car, although you'd notice more of an immediate difference in wheel hop reduction if you installed the subframe support braces and bushing support system (with alignment kit) first.

I put the vertical links and toe links on last. Great advice from David and that's what I would follow first if doing in increments. I went with the whole package. The stock vertical links are pretty weak compared to the Steeda billet ones. :thumbsup:

jdoug · Jan 22, 2016

That's the plan, and thanks for the input from both of you guys. I already have the Steeda bushing spacers and alignment kit installed and will probably do differential bushings next.

Digital_Synapse · Jan 24, 2016

LMAO cream pie those bushings! Hahahhaa

Steeda Vertical Link Install Write-up

Project Whitemare

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David@Steeda

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Gibbo205

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Legionofone

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David@Steeda

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ThirtyThreePointThree

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David@Steeda

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Project Whitemare

GTFO Squad

Todd15Fastback

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jefc73

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jdoug

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David@Steeda

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jefc73

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jdoug

Regular Guy

Digital_Synapse

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