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sanchezcruz_20

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Is it worth it?



Guys, I'm joking. Relax. Just wanted to title my build with something that would grab some attention :headbonk:

My name is Steve. Long time Mustang aficionado. But it's been a while since I've owned one. My last Mustang was a '98 GT which I sold to my buddy in 2008.

Been out of the scene for a while but always kept interest. Timing was right and with the release of the 2015 S550 redesign, I simply couldn't resist.

I purchased it in May and have been LOVING it. Here's the specs:



Traded my 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT8 in on the Mustang.



The Jeep was an AMAZING vehicle. An excellent blend of performance, luxury and versatility. But day in and day out, it just wasn't quite as FUN as I had hoped.

My cousin, a Ford Salesman, helped me acquire this:









I am hoping this thread will serve as a nice way to document my build's progress, as the modifications are already underway.

Let's begin.
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sanchezcruz_20

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Nice car, so what are your plans for mods?
Thanks bud.

Plans? Well, I want more POWER. I figure one of the best ways to achieve that goal is forced induction.

With that mind, I wanted to get a proper baseline while the car is still bone stock. I visited a local shop for a dyno run. I knew I was in the right place when I pulled in.



Couple still shots...





Did three runs and the car performed as expected for a stock vehicle... here's a couple graphs.





 
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sanchezcruz_20

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Shot a couple videos of 2 of the dyno runs. Nothing exciting here since it's still stock. Clearly needs some exhaust.

[ame]

[ame]
 

madsedan

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Nice, I picked up a magnetic gray PP car last Friday myself, great choice!
 

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sanchezcruz_20

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Nice, I picked up a magnetic gray PP car last Friday myself, great choice!
Thanks!! I love the color as well. Any plans for yours?
 
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sanchezcruz_20

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Since the plan is forced induction, I picked up a set of spark plugs that are one step colder than stock; NGK 6510's



And gapped them to .035"

 

madsedan

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I'll keep it simple for now, a set of pipes, intake/tune, possibly a set of good coilovers or upgraded springs/dampers with heavier duty suspension bushings in the rear.
 
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sanchezcruz_20

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I'll keep it simple for now, a set of pipes, intake/tune, possibly a set of good coilovers or upgraded springs/dampers with heavier duty suspension bushings in the rear.
I'll definitely need some exhaust at some point too.

In preparation for the blower install, I went ahead and removed the sound tube. Kind of a pain to reach that nut on the firewall but a combination of tools, patience and arm wrestling got the job done.

 

madsedan

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Whats the reason for removing the sound tube?
 

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sanchezcruz_20

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Whats the reason for removing the sound tube?
In my scenario, the supercharger will replace the factory airbox and the sound tube won't have any place to connect.

Others remove it because it is unnecessary clutter in the engine compartment and since it doesn't affect performance, why not show off more of the motor.
 
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sanchezcruz_20

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Sound tube delete

I settled on Procharger for my forced induction needs, opting for the Complete H.O. Kit with P-1SC-1 headunit.

I'm an avid DIY'er but this will be my first supercharger installation. I'm not exactly a mechanic but have wrenched on cars a a fair bit so I'm up for the challenge. I researched the procedure quite a bit and feel prepared with all the information out there on the internet. I've always found great benefit in write-ups, pictures and video resources that others have posted so I am planning to document most of my installation in case there's anyone out there who is on the fence as to whether or not they can do the install on their own.

For you gearheads out there, some of the following posts may be remedial or fundamental. Please bear with me.

After removal of the sound tube, a hole is left between the engine compartment and cabin. I was pleasantly surprised to learn that Procharger supplies a cap to cover the void.

As stated, it's in a fairly obscure spot on the firewall, but once the sound tube is removed it can me photographed quite easily.

Without the cap:


With the cap:
 
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sanchezcruz_20

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Airbox Removal

With the sound tube out of the way, it's time to remove the airbox. This is a simple procedure as there is only one bolt that secures the airbox to the body. Otherwise, loosening the worm clamp at the throttle body, disconnecting the MAF sensor and a couples hoses from the inlet tube is all that is required.

For reference, here's my stock engine bay:


After uninstalling the enormous airbox, take a look at how much space is freed up in the engine bay:
 
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sanchezcruz_20

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Radiator Cover Removal

Next up, removing the radiator cover.

The cover is secured by 8 or so push pins. These are easily removed with a flat blade screwdriver but I love any excuse to buy a tool so I ran down to Harbor Freight for these:

http://www.harborfreight.com/push-pin-pliers-67400.html

They work well and are cheap.

Once removed, it looks like this...
 
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sanchezcruz_20

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Front Fascia Removal

Removing the front fascia is somewhat involved but a reasonable task. It just involves removal of a bunch of screws and push pins.

There's about 19 screws that need to be removed from the splash guard underneath the engine. There's also a bolt that fastens the bumper to the fender which is only accessible by pulling back the fender well liner. Kind of a pain to get too but at least there are only 2. Then removing 8 screws across the top frees the fascia, permitting it to be removed. Don't forget to disconnect the 3 electrical connectors on either side for the lights.

With the fascia removed, you're left with this:




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