Spark Plugs - Please Read

Just a quick post, if you are on stock spark plugs I highly recommend popping them out and give the gap a check. I have been seeing very inconsistent timing between cylinders when e-tuning customers EBM's. 90% of the time it is because they are on stock spar plugs and the gaps are all over the place. So far I have seen them have differences as little as .002", and as high as .010" between plugs. A customer I just I was tuning just last night pulled his plugs out and this is what he had |.028|.032|.030|.038|.

So, if you haven't done so yet pull them out and re-gap them. They are iridium's from the factory so you cannot gap them traditionally. Use a pair of pliers to open them up slightly, then tap them very lightly to gap them down!

FORGOT MY RECOMMENDED GAP! .026 - .028!!


Edit 4/17/15: Here are some graphs of a customers car I am tuning before and after spark plugs at my recommended gap.


Before (Stock Plugs):



After (NGK 6510 @ .026"):




Big difference!

Thank you,
Adam

What should the stock gap be?

Thanks for the heads up. I'll regap and put them at 0.030 ready for the reflash. Thanks map

Can someone tell me the stock gap for the 2015 GT PP?

map is there a way to purchase your intercooler piping without the bov? Sorry for the thread hijack.

robb said:

Can someone tell me the stock gap for the 2015 GT PP?

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Robb im not sure of your stock gap but your owners manual should have that info. You having an N/A motor is less troublesome than out turbo engines because boost pressure can blow the spark causing a misfire so our gaps must be appropriate or risk damage. Hope it helps

I have added my recommended gap to the first post, sorry I was in the middle of a 1000 things.

Stang4u2nv - Unless you already have a Turbosmart BOV there wouldn't be a reason to get it without the BOV. It has a flange for Turbosmart Vee Port or a Turbosmart Plumb-Back BOV.

If you want to use a different BOV completely drop me a pm and we can discuss.

Sorry map i thought that flange on the piping was a standard 38mm flange, correct me if im wrong in that. I have a tial bov which i was considering using. Thats why i wanted just the piping and couplers of course.

Stang4u2nv said:

Sorry map i thought that flange on the piping was a standard 38mm flange, correct me if im wrong in that. I have a tial bov which i was considering using. Thats why i wanted just the piping and couplers of course.

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It is a 38mm with an o-ring. If you want a 50mm Tial I can weld a Tial flange onto it for you for the cost of the flange. Make sure you have a 7psi spring in the BOV before installing!

So in short the answer to my question is yes, you do sell the tuning and coullers by themselves correct? If so how much?

May be unrelated or related but for those that have the early check engine light issue, might be worth a shot. My CEL came on at 200 miles and would come and go and the dealership replaced the spark plugs. I also ran fuel cleaner and used nothing but 91 octane. It has 1200 miles and no CEL yet.

I assume you have only seen Valencia engines so far? Job 1 for the Ecoboost 2.3L from Cleveland Engine Plant #1 was in March 2015; not sure if that will make any difference but it will be a difference in where the engine was manufactured.

wildsailor said:

I assume you have only seen Valencia engines so far? Job 1 for the Ecoboost 2.3L from Cleveland Engine Plant #1 was in March 2015; not sure if that will make any difference but it will be a difference in where the engine was manufactured.

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wouldn't that only matter if the plugs are manufactured at two different places? You could have two different assembly locations getting parts made from the same place, in the same batch even.

Stang4u2nv said:

So in short the answer to my question is yes, you do sell the tuning and coullers by themselves correct? If so how much?

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I'm assuming you meant tubing and couplers. Let's move this to pm's.

Regarding the engine assembly location, I really didn't dig that far into it as it really doesn't matter. It is simple enough to pull the plugs, gap them, then put them back in!

Slow day at work so I walked out and checked them. 0.028-0.029". I regapped them because I am retentive about stuff like that.

Where do you find out which location the engine was assembled? Curious to see if its a location thing.