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Binks Ford's Fusion paint protection (Nano-ceramic)

Jules-2017

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If you think about it the dealer has already washed it (and I saw a guy washing a new stang I almost threw up and made a mental note they won't do my ceramic coating). There may be swirl marks from factory as I imagine it has already been cut and polished. Sam said the newer it is the better it would be and less prep work he has to do but it's not 100% from the dealer. I need to go down and chat to them but they impressed me so far with a quick chat.
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IngoStang

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I spent 2k on that. Nano-ceramic interior and exterior protection...

It is said to have life time warranty and it does not require annual inspection.

Because it is invisible and dunt even know if it is still there???

And I am given some 'special' detergent etc.


Does anyone know how to wash the car after this properly and whether this thing is worth the money???
No coating lasts forever. Just like tires, a coating will wear over time. You are dealing with something that measures in the microns for thickness. Whether the car is garaged or out in the weather 24/7 also has a bearing on longevity. Any PH Neutral wash is fine to use, like most companies though, they'll tell you that you can only use their product.

A strip wash with a higher PH rating ( stronger alkaline ) will attack the coating over time, shortening its life span. Going to a reputable detailer is a much better option as they tend to do a much better job and apply a better product.

Debate can go one for days as to which is the better coating and the longest lasting, that decision all comes down to you.
 

Frostee

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Do you actually need paint correction done on a brand new car? My understanding of swirls is they end up on the paint over time from normal washing. I'm no expert on paint protection and this level of detailing so correct me if I'm wrong on this the more I learn the better.
You absolutely need paint correction. Mine for example when put under black light showed up a tennis ball sized mark on the bonnet which I assume was there from some type of suction cup used to move the panel around. There was also various contaminants that needed to be buffed out. Think about it, the cars sit on the wharf for weeks and in most cases are given pretty average preparation by the dealer, not removing all the contaminants that have accumulated.

If you're going to add another layer of protection with a ceramic or similar coating, you're wasting your time if the paint isn't corrected before application.
 

apsilon

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You need paint correction on a new car if you're going to apply a sealant. Think about it. Any imperfection that's not removed is going to be sealed in so you're not going to be able to remove it later without a lot of work.

The dealer will most likely have washed the car to present it to you and I can guarantee that they'll have introduced marks. The cars also sit for at least 2 months after being built and a lot of that time is outside so that's plenty of time for contaminates to fall on the paint.

Would I trust a dealer to apply a sealant? Absolutely not. Not only will they overcharge for it but if they can't wash the car correctly in the first place how can they do something that requires far more attention to detail.

Picking up the car is the thing that I dread. Despite all my instructions I'm pretty certain they stuff something up and then I need to argue with them. Drilling the number plate holes incorrectly is my biggest concern as it's the most expensive to fix and so they'll argue the hardest but when I turn up with one of our thickness gauges, gloss meter, lights and spectros to check the paint I know I'll find flaws and I know the difference between what happens at the factory and what happens in delivery. It's never a fun time yet it should be.

My first few days with the car will be spent doing my own paint correction and then applying sealant and wax (I'm not a believer in ceramic or any of the other paint protection coatings).
 

Jules-2017

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No coating lasts forever. Just like tires, a coating will wear over time. You are dealing with something that measures in the microns for thickness. Whether the car is garaged or out in the weather 24/7 also has a bearing on longevity. Any PH Neutral wash is fine to use, like most companies though, they'll tell you that you can only use their product.

A strip wash with a higher PH rating ( stronger alkaline ) will attack the coating over time, shortening its life span. Going to a reputable detailer is a much better option as they tend to do a much better job and apply a better product.

Debate can go one for days as to which is the better coating and the longest lasting, that decision all comes down to you.
I have asked people so many times how long does it last and thy seems to make it sound like it's for life which I don't believe so it's good to get some realistic advice above:headbang: I intend to use the right cleaners and keep it under a car cover and then under a carport so I am hoping to get 5 years out of it.

Great advice, thanks.
 

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Frostee

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I have asked people so many times how long does it last and thy seems to make it sound like it's for life which I don't believe so it's good to get some realistic advice above:headbang: I intend to use the right cleaners and keep it under a car cover and then under a carport so I am hoping to get 5 years out of it.

Great advice, thanks.
There's a lot of protection products that are nano sealants that do wear and need to be reapplied. Some of these come with 5 year warranties, but it doesn't mean they last for 5 years and when you try to claim on them you can get into problems if they can show that you haven't adhered to the care instructions. There's some that Dealers sell that have statements such as "German Paint Protection Technology" and these tend to get rebranded every few years when word gets out as to what they are. There's a lot of traps for the unsuspecting.

I would only ever recommend getting paint protection from a specialist detailer.

There are nano-products that you can self apply, and they're good, but again you need to start with a good clean surface. I've used such on previous cars and they're good, but need to be reapplied 2-3 times a year and kept topped up with a treated shampoo and detailing spray.

With regard to use of a car cover - be careful. Car covers can actually do damage with scratching when you put them on and remove them constantly. Do your research as to what cover to get.

edit: Just saw you're dealing with Sam - you won't go wrong. He'll be using G-Techniq Serum and in my experience it's excellent. Pick up some of the detailing spray that he recommends. As for washing I use Bowden's Own Snow Foam and it's great.
 
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Vinno

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You absolutely need paint correction. Mine for example when put under black light showed up a tennis ball sized mark on the bonnet which I assume was there from some type of suction cup used to move the panel around. There was also various contaminants that needed to be buffed out. Think about it, the cars sit on the wharf for weeks and in most cases are given pretty average preparation by the dealer, not removing all the contaminants that have accumulated.

If you're going to add another layer of protection with a ceramic or similar coating, you're wasting your time if the paint isn't corrected before application.
I understand removing what is on the paint from transport and docks etc but isn't that what a clay bar is used for? I did read the comment above about putting it under a black light and picking up the suction cup marks and the like and I get that too but paint correction and removing contaminants are different processes right?
 

Frostee

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Surrexen

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Is the one you are talking about called Protektiv ?
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