FranzVonHoffer
Well-Known Member
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Install of ALP's parking sensors.
ALP comes with a CPU you have to stash somewhere out of site, a controller, a dash light and four sensors.
http://i.imgur.com/CeF9f0B.jpg
I removed the following inside panels:
Rear truck panel
Passenger rear quarter panel
Passenger lower door sill trim
Passenger kick trim and fuse cover
Passenger tranny tunnel trim (optional)
Driver tranny tunnel trim (optional)
Stick shift cover
Change bin cover
I’ve seen two other S550 Mustang installs and so far the best location for the controller seems to be in the change bin so I decided to follow the crowd and mount it there. Be advised when you pull that little plate off it only goes back on one way so orient your controller correctly when you tape it down.
These Mustangs are so easy to route wiring because all the panels are so loose and flexible. You can run cable or wire right behind the dash and over the transmission tunnel with mechanical fingers.
ALP comes with a dash light which I stuck right next to my Valentine One remote display. Telescope the wheel out and drop it all the way down and you’ll have room to run the wire. Pop out that panel and drill a hole to match the diameter of the light then pop it in. Be advised the base to that panel has to be cut to accommodate the wiring for the light but I just clipped it with some dia cutters and it cleared fine.
I redneck wired it straight to the fuse panels for a bench test. I forgot to order more Micro2 add-a-circuits so I’m riding like this till next weekend. Fuse 23 is switchable.
I wanted to install the CPU in the space where the manual goes but it’s already full of wiring for my Valentine One/ Remote Display/ Bluetooth splitter so I had to mount it to the back of the glove box.
I mounted the rear heads by the license plate. These things need to be aligned level and perpendicular to the road. ALP supplies you a square level to use but I prefer to use my own level. I ran a metal ruler across two floor jacks to make sure they were square on the X axis, then used hand level to check the Y axis. Did the same for the heads up front.
I ran the rear wiring along the existing conduit the Mustang has routed and zip-tied it at every junction. You need to keep track of the heads so I tape them up like ships wiring. Green/Starboard-passenger side, Red-Port-Driver side. I used double tape for rear, single for front.
Ran the wiring down the passenger door sill and into the foot well.
Front heads I installed at the outer edge of the bottom intake under the nose section. This required me to punch holes the lower honeycomb so the wiring would fit. I was going to punch through the firewall but with all that room in the fender I decided to just run it through there. Saved a ton of time and I can zip tie it in place at multiple locations for stability.
ALP has a specific order the heads need to connect to the CPU.
It pains me to have this nonsense in my glove box but this how I’m going to go with it. Probably some of you ambitious types can do a better location for the CPU but be advised when you do any firmware updates or change your profile setting you need to have access to the top of this CPU to stick the jump drive in with your new programs. So I wanted it very accessible.
I got on the ALP website to setup profiles for my ALP. Downloaded all this and a new voice pack to a ScanDisk jump drive and plugged it into the car. Note: The ALP gave me a low voltage warning when I tried to program it with the vehicle in accessory mode so I had to start it and program it while it’s running.
It flickers the lights for about five minutes then goes green (or blue in my case sense I have multiple profiles) when it’s done.
Restarted the system, verified settings then called it a night.
No more bumping my chin splitter into curbs.
ALP comes with a CPU you have to stash somewhere out of site, a controller, a dash light and four sensors.
http://i.imgur.com/CeF9f0B.jpg
I removed the following inside panels:
Rear truck panel
Passenger rear quarter panel
Passenger lower door sill trim
Passenger kick trim and fuse cover
Passenger tranny tunnel trim (optional)
Driver tranny tunnel trim (optional)
Stick shift cover
Change bin cover
I’ve seen two other S550 Mustang installs and so far the best location for the controller seems to be in the change bin so I decided to follow the crowd and mount it there. Be advised when you pull that little plate off it only goes back on one way so orient your controller correctly when you tape it down.
These Mustangs are so easy to route wiring because all the panels are so loose and flexible. You can run cable or wire right behind the dash and over the transmission tunnel with mechanical fingers.
ALP comes with a dash light which I stuck right next to my Valentine One remote display. Telescope the wheel out and drop it all the way down and you’ll have room to run the wire. Pop out that panel and drill a hole to match the diameter of the light then pop it in. Be advised the base to that panel has to be cut to accommodate the wiring for the light but I just clipped it with some dia cutters and it cleared fine.
I redneck wired it straight to the fuse panels for a bench test. I forgot to order more Micro2 add-a-circuits so I’m riding like this till next weekend. Fuse 23 is switchable.
I wanted to install the CPU in the space where the manual goes but it’s already full of wiring for my Valentine One/ Remote Display/ Bluetooth splitter so I had to mount it to the back of the glove box.
I mounted the rear heads by the license plate. These things need to be aligned level and perpendicular to the road. ALP supplies you a square level to use but I prefer to use my own level. I ran a metal ruler across two floor jacks to make sure they were square on the X axis, then used hand level to check the Y axis. Did the same for the heads up front.
I ran the rear wiring along the existing conduit the Mustang has routed and zip-tied it at every junction. You need to keep track of the heads so I tape them up like ships wiring. Green/Starboard-passenger side, Red-Port-Driver side. I used double tape for rear, single for front.
Ran the wiring down the passenger door sill and into the foot well.
Front heads I installed at the outer edge of the bottom intake under the nose section. This required me to punch holes the lower honeycomb so the wiring would fit. I was going to punch through the firewall but with all that room in the fender I decided to just run it through there. Saved a ton of time and I can zip tie it in place at multiple locations for stability.
ALP has a specific order the heads need to connect to the CPU.
It pains me to have this nonsense in my glove box but this how I’m going to go with it. Probably some of you ambitious types can do a better location for the CPU but be advised when you do any firmware updates or change your profile setting you need to have access to the top of this CPU to stick the jump drive in with your new programs. So I wanted it very accessible.
I got on the ALP website to setup profiles for my ALP. Downloaded all this and a new voice pack to a ScanDisk jump drive and plugged it into the car. Note: The ALP gave me a low voltage warning when I tried to program it with the vehicle in accessory mode so I had to start it and program it while it’s running.
It flickers the lights for about five minutes then goes green (or blue in my case sense I have multiple profiles) when it’s done.
Restarted the system, verified settings then called it a night.
No more bumping my chin splitter into curbs.
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