Extended wheel stud DIY?

spiller · Jul 5, 2017

I have some APR studs on the way to me. I understand they can be installed using a press which obviously involves removing the knuckle. Is there a way to do it without a shop press? I will have the caliper/rotor off when I do the suspension install so would like to have a go at it.

1) safest way to remove OEM studs without damaging them?

2) how to instal the ARP studs - open lug nut against the hub face to pull the stud through? Use of loctite? Etc etc.

Cheers!

Joebroni · Jul 5, 2017

Nobody uses a press to install lugs. Or at least I've never seen anyone trying to work that hard for something so easy. You didn't say if you are doing front/rear or perhaps all four. I only did extended on the rear and chose to unbolt the knuckle after trying for a bit to squeeze them in. I've seen some people grind off a side of the lug head to fit them in but I didn't want to. I just did some fronts on a 2014 GT and was able to do it on car, without removing knuckle.

Just give the old ones a few smacks right on the end to pop them out. They shouldn't be that hard assuming you have a nice heavy hammer. And if you can get it out in 1-3 hits, it shouldn't mushroom the end. Maybe use something to absorb the blow if you are really wanting to keep them perfect. Like a block of wood or something soft (brass).

The method a lot of people use is an open nut and several (like 3+) washers underneath. When you run the nut down, the washers prevent the threads from pulling. There are lug installer tools that do the same thing with a bearing on the backside, just make sure you get one big enough. Our lugs are pretty fat. I'm looking at the one I got from Matco but I don't see a part number on it to give you. Shouldn't be hard to find or ask for one.

You don't need Loctite since they are splined.

Good luck!

Calvin · Jul 5, 2017

Joebroni said:
Nobody uses a press to install lugs. Or at least I've never seen anyone trying to work that hard for something so easy. You didn't say if you are doing front/rear or perhaps all four. I only did extended on the rear and chose to unbolt the knuckle after trying for a bit to squeeze them in. I've seen some people grind off a side of the lug head to fit them in but I didn't want to. I just did some fronts on a 2014 GT and was able to do it on car, without removing knuckle.

Just give the old ones a few smacks right on the end to pop them out. They shouldn't be that hard assuming you have a nice heavy hammer. And if you can get it out in 1-3 hits, it shouldn't mushroom the end. Maybe use something to absorb the blow if you are really wanting to keep them perfect. Like a block of wood or something soft (brass).

The method a lot of people use is an open nut and several (like 3+) washers underneath. When you run the nut down, the washers prevent the threads from pulling. There are lug installer tools that do the same thing with a bearing on the backside, just make sure you get one big enough. Our lugs are pretty fat. I'm looking at the one I got from Matco but I don't see a part number on it to give you. Shouldn't be hard to find or ask for one.

You don't need Loctite since they are splined.

Good luck!

I wouldn't generalize and say nobody presses them in. I've always pressed in studs as it seems like the most proper way to go about it. I am on my second set of hubs reusing my ARP studs on my Mustang. The front and rear suspension/driveline on these cars are one of the easier setups I have ever worked on and I can guarantee it takes less time for me to remove the front and rear hubs to press the studs out vs if I hammer and washer/nut it. Granted I will hammer and washer/nut it if I were to have to replace one on the field.

If you have access to a press, I recommend doing it that way. Minimizing the point load exerted on the hub bearings from impacting the stud as well as the tensile strain exerted on the threads from 'pressing' them in by driving them home with washers and a open ended nut is non-existent if you use a press. Granted it can be a moot point (the damage) and there are lug install tools made that derive off this concept. The BRZ/FRS platforms can experience damage to the studs if done this way as far as I know, However I haven't heard of anything negative on the Mustangs yet.

cking · Jul 5, 2017

I wouldn't hammer them out if I was doing them all too much shock on bearings

spiller · Jul 5, 2017

Joebroni said:
Nobody uses a press to install lugs. Or at least I've never seen anyone trying to work that hard for something so easy. You didn't say if you are doing front/rear or perhaps all four. I only did extended on the rear and chose to unbolt the knuckle after trying for a bit to squeeze them in. I've seen some people grind off a side of the lug head to fit them in but I didn't want to. I just did some fronts on a 2014 GT and was able to do it on car, without removing knuckle.

Just give the old ones a few smacks right on the end to pop them out. They shouldn't be that hard assuming you have a nice heavy hammer. And if you can get it out in 1-3 hits, it shouldn't mushroom the end. Maybe use something to absorb the blow if you are really wanting to keep them perfect. Like a block of wood or something soft (brass).

The method a lot of people use is an open nut and several (like 3+) washers underneath. When you run the nut down, the washers prevent the threads from pulling. There are lug installer tools that do the same thing with a bearing on the backside, just make sure you get one big enough. Our lugs are pretty fat. I'm looking at the one I got from Matco but I don't see a part number on it to give you. Shouldn't be hard to find or ask for one.

You don't need Loctite since they are splined.

Good luck!

Is there a difference between front and rear? I would have thought the procedure would be the same. What's the purpuse of grinding the base of the stud? Are the ARP studs oversized for the stud holes?

Calvin said:
I wouldn't generalize and say nobody presses them in. I've always pressed in studs as it seems like the most proper way to go about it. I am on my second set of hubs reusing my ARP studs on my Mustang. The front and rear suspension/driveline on these cars are one of the easier setups I have ever worked on and I can guarantee it takes less time for me to remove the front and rear hubs to press the studs out vs if I hammer and washer/nut it. Granted I will hammer and washer/nut it if I were to have to replace one on the field.

If you have access to a press, I recommend doing it that way. Minimizing the point load exerted on the hub bearings from impacting the stud as well as the tensile strain exerted on the threads from 'pressing' them in by driving them home with washers and a open ended nut is non-existent if you use a press. Granted it can be a moot point (the damage) and there are lug install tools made that derive off this concept. The BRZ/FRS platforms can experience damage to the studs if done this way as far as I know, However I haven't heard of anything negative on the Mustangs yet.

Cheers. I don't have access to a press and don't really want to pull the hubs off so will try the original method and be careful doing so.

I found an excellent PDF on Amerian Muscle's website which details the lug nut and washer method. Seems pretty straight forward. Perhaps ill do this (carefully).

http://www.americanmuscle.com/arp-front-wheel-studs-0513-cust-install.html

cking · Jul 6, 2017

I looked at the link and if 18oz framing happen loosen them with three or four whacks maybe ok. Good luck hitting it square and it no spinning. I'm used to old rusty ones, which can be very stubborn. We would whack them with 2# hammer one time on the press table to shock the rust loose, it would drop the brake loose pressure on press.

spiller · Jul 6, 2017

cking said:
I looked at the link and if 18oz framing happen loosen them with three or four whacks maybe ok. Good luck hitting it square and it no spinning. I'm used to old rusty ones, which can be very stubborn. We would whack them with 2# hammer one time on the press table to shock the rust loose, it would drop the brake loose pressure on press.

That link was for an S197 but I'd assume the S550 would have a similar hub set up, at least on the front. The car is only 6 months old and has had no exposure to corrosive conditions so let's hope they come out without too much abuse.

firestarter2 · Jul 6, 2017

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1836875&postcount=3

how I did it

spiller · Jul 6, 2017

firestarter2 said:
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1836875&postcount=3

how I did it

Thanks for the link. That spacer thingo is nifty, much better than the washer method. What is it called and where did you find it? Can I ask why you removed the hub? Also do the ARP studs come with one flat side like that or did you grind them?

firestarter2 · Jul 6, 2017

spiller said:
Thanks for the link. That spacer thingo is nifty, much better than the washer method. What is it called and where did you find it? Can I ask why you removed the hub? Also do the ARP studs come with one flat side like that or did you grind them?

Spacer thing is a O2 sensor remover, I didnt have enough washers. Washers would probably work better.

On the GT350 you cant get the studs out with the HUB on the car.

The ARP stud come with a flat side.

Norm Peterson · Jul 19, 2017

spiller said:
I found an excellent PDF on Amerian Muscle's website which details the lug nut and washer method. Seems pretty straight forward. Perhaps ill do this (carefully).

http://www.americanmuscle.com/arp-front-wheel-studs-0513-cust-install.html

I wouldn't call it 'excellent'.

For starters, they shouldn't be showing you to use the conical end of a lug nut against the washers. Use a regular hex nut with the same threads or the flat side of an open-style lug nut against the washers instead. Plan on using a deep-well socket.

Use a dab of grease (doesn't much matter what kind) between two of the washers. This will reduce the amount of friction.

As long as you're willing to wash them off with a solvent after you've drawn the studs home (acetone works well), a little grease on the stud threads reduces the friction still further and makes pulling the studs so easy you won't even need the impact tool or impact sockets.

Norm

wildcatgoal · Jul 19, 2017

Mine were installed with a standard on-car stud removal and installation tool at a Ford dealer (by a mechanic I know). He said it was a walk in the park with a little grease to help along the way. It is better to press them in, I guess, but I have no worries/issues.

NvrFinished · Jul 19, 2017

I'm going to need to install longer front studs when I go to my 19x11 square set up for the track. I've done a little bit of research and a cheap ball joint separator looks like the way go without worry of over stressing the new studs or causing possible damage to wheel bearing from whacking out the old ones. The link below is a good tutorial. It even has a link on a study done about stud failure due to improper stud installation.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3319195/Wheel-stud_installation/remova

M3Convert · Jul 19, 2017

Dumb question time:

What's the length of the OEM studs? I want to change the front (and maybe the rear now I've seen the ball joint press trick) to accommodate wider tires/spacers and closed end lug nuts.

Good thread, thanks

spiller · Jul 19, 2017

Norm Peterson said:
I wouldn't call it 'excellent'.

For starters, they shouldn't be showing you to use the conical end of a lug nut against the washers. Use a regular hex nut with the same threads or the flat side of an open-style lug nut against the washers instead. Plan on using a deep-well socket.

Use a dab of grease (doesn't much matter what kind) between two of the washers. This will reduce the amount of friction.

As long as you're willing to wash them off with a solvent after you've drawn the studs home (acetone works well), a little grease on the stud threads reduces the friction still further and makes pulling the studs so easy you won't even need the impact tool or impact sockets.

Norm

Thanks for the tips. When you say grease between two of the washers, any two washers in particular (I plan on using a stack of them)? Greasing the studs makes sense too. I do have an impact too with deep sockets so may use that on slow speed/low torque.

Extended wheel stud DIY?

spiller

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Joebroni

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Calvin

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cking

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spiller

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cking

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spiller

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firestarter2

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spiller

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firestarter2

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Norm Peterson

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wildcatgoal

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NvrFinished

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M3Convert

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spiller

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