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HELLION BOOSTS THE WORLDS MOST POWERFUL GT350!

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Hi-PO Stang

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Nice ! I am impressed by how neat the engine compartment looks after the turbos were installed. Looks as if they were installed by FoMoCo.
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Billy1

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John U, would it have continued to make more power to 8250? or did it peak at 7,200?
 
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firestarter2

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Yes. when you put a lot pressure on the back of the valves it makes em wanna hang open or float. That's a bad thing when the piston intends to occupy the same space a few fractions of a second later.
Hmm I will investigate for some reason that sounds like nonsense to me. I feel like if they were so weak they hang open theyd loose contact with the cams and in all my years Ive never heard of upgrading valve spring for boost
 

Firepath

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Hmm I will investigate for some reason that sounds like nonsense to me. I feel like if they were so weak they hang open theyd loose contact with the cams and in all my years Ive never heard of upgrading valve spring for boost
It sounds technically plausible, and I have heard of more spring for boost before.

I look at it this way:

Extra pressure on the back of the (intake) valve head is just like having less spring. That means more likelihood of float at higher rpms or a lower rpm where float starts occurring. If floating (hanging open) badly / long enough you can get the piston-valve interference referred to previously.

Of course one could argue that if you're putting more air in you're going to have more back-pressure and thus the valve shouldn't be affected by it all much. Buttttt if you're putting more air in from boost there is definitely an increase in force in the direction of flow, after all, it's not going in there by itself otherwise you wouldn't need the boost to get the same power.

Basically at either side (exhaust or intake) if you have pressure on the backside of the valve, you're equivalently decreasing the rate of the valve spring. Whether this pressure is boost (intake) or backpressure (exhaust) is fairly irrelevant. Whether or not it will genuinely make a significant difference depends on the particular machine. If small boost, you're probably ok, if lots, you're probably after max power and want to raise the rev-limit (and probably put bigger cams in) anyway, so why not upgrade the springs.
 

EF300

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Hey Hellion,

Have you guys experienced any vibration issues with the motor ? If so how did you deal with them.

Thanks
 

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Voodooo

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They said the spray liners are good to 1000 hp. Yet they had a 1000rwhp goal and shattered that. Why didn't you install the liners knowing you were going to go up to or over that?

How much weight was added to the car?

No more NA engine :brokenheart:
 

firestarter2

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It sounds technically plausible, and I have heard of more spring for boost before.

I look at it this way:

Extra pressure on the back of the (intake) valve head is just like having less spring. That means more likelihood of float at higher rpms or a lower rpm where float starts occurring. If floating (hanging open) badly / long enough you can get the piston-valve interference referred to previously.

Of course one could argue that if you're putting more air in you're going to have more back-pressure and thus the valve shouldn't be affected by it all much. Buttttt if you're putting more air in from boost there is definitely an increase in force in the direction of flow, after all, it's not going in there by itself otherwise you wouldn't need the boost to get the same power.

Basically at either side (exhaust or intake) if you have pressure on the backside of the valve, you're equivalently decreasing the rate of the valve spring. Whether this pressure is boost (intake) or backpressure (exhaust) is fairly irrelevant. Whether or not it will genuinely make a significant difference depends on the particular machine. If small boost, you're probably ok, if lots, you're probably after max power and want to raise the rev-limit (and probably put bigger cams in) anyway, so why not upgrade the springs.
Yeah what you are saying makes sense, but is not one valve it's all of them. I'm used to foreign engines maybe the valve springs in a DOHC head are stronger. And traditionally they have more valves they usdm v8s.

I inherently don't like money is no object builds
 

Voodooo

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Yeah what you are saying makes sense, but is not one valve it's all of them. I'm used to foreign engines maybe the valve springs in a DOHC head are stronger. And traditionally they have more valves they usdm v8s.

I inherently don't like money is no object builds
What do you mean "money is no object builds"? When I build /rebuild an engine, it's best to replace everything needed and anything that has a failure history. (Valve springs fall into that category) granted this engine is fairly new, it's under boost and rpm. Why wouldn't you use stronger springs and lighter retainers?
 

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What do you mean "money is no object builds"? When I build /rebuild an engine, it's best to replace everything needed and anything that has a failure history. (Valve springs fall into that category) granted this engine is fairly new, it's under boost and rpm. Why wouldn't you use stronger springs and lighter retainers?
I agree. To me this isn't a money is no object decision its simply protecting one self from a much more expensive problem later, you already have the engine apart why wouldn't you take the necessary steps for a small amount more? Sure you might be able to get away with leaving the springs stock but whats the consequence of failure? The cost to proactively address the potential issue vs. fix upon failure is a drastic difference.
 

Scott Wilson

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This is probably the smoothest sounding 1k hp pull I have ever heard tbh. Great work!
 

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In the STANGTV article they show the cylinder head combustion chamber. It wouldn't hurt to index the spark plugs away from the intake valves. :cheers: every little bit helps.
 

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I would go with the ProCharger supercharger over the Hellion Turbos any day of the week.
 

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That is insane!!! Over 1,000HP and over 1,000TQ at the rear wheels?!?! :eyebulge: :eyebulge: LOL
I bet this build cost over 20K in total parts/labor.
 

Offboost

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By no means do we mean lazy in a derogatory way. Many of our customers have asked if our turbo kit will fix the "lazyness" within their GT350. We have many turbo sizes, but the quick spool 55mm units give the largest gain and the most average power.



You are correct, the car will never hook with that torque. We simply have a dyno of a max effort setup. The beauty of a turbo setup is that with our E boost 2 we can program any curve desired. We can program the power to come on at a nice rate, and peak at 8000 if needed, or anywhere in between.
So here are a few question for you?

How would the larger turbo's do with a stock engine and limited to 4PSI of boost. Hopefully it would lag them enough to not start building boost until about 4k to allow tires and chassis to be settled before making boost. I think 4psi of high quality boost at the higher rpms would help keep things together better and still have a very linear tractable power band.

Is there any way to get the air inlets to not suck under hood heat especially in hotter climates? What are the typical inlet temps running while sitting in traffic? I know even the stock inlets temps get high but would think the temps will be considerably higher since inlets are on the sides of the engine near the exhaust manifolds and turbo's.

Is there any type of thermal damage being done too the components up front near the turbo's cause I know things will be very hot in this area?
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