BMR Tech Tip: Clock those bushings after lowering your S550!

Rebellion · Jan 11, 2017

Dominant1 said:
It was posted by a member, I don't know where he got it from he never said! Its important to remember that your cracking these bolts loose with the weight of the car on it, then re- torqueing them accordingly! Loosening them releases the pre- load!

The sticky on the suspension forum...the post with the torque specs.

MtnBiker · Jan 11, 2017

DennisP said:
If I may ask...where did this diagram come from? Is it the service manual? Will definitely be asking my shop to do this when I get the track pack installed next month!

The diagram is great. If you have the GT performance pack (don't know ecoboost stuff) I believe the front suspension is upgraded with a spherical on the rear inner LCA. Maybe some suspension guru can confirm but it sure looked like a factory bearing, not bushing, to me. Don't need to clock that one.

BmacIL · Jan 11, 2017

MtnBiker said:
The diagram is great. If you have the GT performance pack (don't know ecoboost stuff) I believe the front suspension is upgraded with a spherical on the rear inner LCA. Maybe some suspension guru can confirm but it sure looked like a factory bearing, not bushing, to me. Don't need to clock that one.

Correct on the GT PP. For non-PP guys (like me) it'll be worth clocking that one, where it is a bushing.

BMR Tech · Jan 11, 2017

Yup.

Even if the clocking doesn't make a difference in the height, or noise, or performance.....every single bushing needs to be indexed to no preload at ride height.

It will help with the longevity of the bushings tremendously.

One bushing I am seeing A LOT of failures with, is the outer toe/knuckle bushings. I assume Ford saw the same thing, and ensured the toe knuckle bearing was one of the first "suspension" pieces they released. Still not sure why anyone would put a rubber bushing in the toe alignment system...

Bluemustang · Jan 11, 2017

I checked my car in the driveway. The left rear and right rear have a different gap. Same with the fronts. I am guessing now that the bushings were not clocked as the shop said they were. Or it was not done properly.

It is common on lowering springs to have slightly different gaps? Or is it more likely the bushings need to be clocked?

BmacIL · Jan 11, 2017

Bluemustang said:
I checked my car in the driveway. The left rear and right rear have a different gap. Same with the fronts. I am guessing now that the bushings were not clocked as the shop said they were. Or it was not done properly.

It is common on lowering springs to have slightly different gaps? Or is it more likely the bushings need to be clocked?

How much of a difference? Some of that could just be in the tolerances.

Dominant1 · Jan 11, 2017

If you can easily see the differences something is wrong!

Bluemustang · Jan 11, 2017

Dominant1 said:
If you can easily see the differences something is wrong!

I could basically tell with the naked eye. I don't know the exact difference but about 1 or 2 fingers.

Don't know why it took me this long to notice.

BMR Tech · Jan 19, 2017

Bluemustang said:
I checked my car in the driveway. The left rear and right rear have a different gap. Same with the fronts. I am guessing now that the bushings were not clocked as the shop said they were. Or it was not done properly.

It is common on lowering springs to have slightly different gaps? Or is it more likely the bushings need to be clocked?

You could also have some sway bar preload that is causing it.

Did you ever get it figured out?

Bluemustang · Jan 19, 2017

BMR Tech said:
You could also have some sway bar preload that is causing it.

Did you ever get it figured out?

Not yet. Taking the car into the shop on Monday. I'll have them check the preload on the sway bars as well. I'll probably have them set the rear bar to soft position also.

BMR Tech · Jan 19, 2017

Bluemustang said:
Not yet. Taking the car into the shop on Monday. I'll have them check the preload on the sway bars as well. I'll probably have them set the rear bar to soft position also.

Keep me updated and let me know if you need any assistance.

Remember, also, if you need to give my info to the shop feel free.

Good Luck :thumbsup:

Bluemustang · Jan 19, 2017

BMR Tech said:
Keep me updated and let me know if you need any assistance.

Remember, also, if you need to give my info to the shop feel free.

Good Luck

Thanks Kelly you're the man! I will keep you updated and let the shop know that you can offer your help if needed. That's very kind of you!

s550v6 · Feb 22, 2017

BMR Tech said:
Many of our customers in both the GM and Ford segments of our operation, have ride height issues after lowering their vehicles.

Some very common complaints after lowering vehicles are:

-Car did not drop much in the rear

-Car is sitting lop sided

-Car is making noise now

-Car feels very unstable and floaty

-After lowering the car, some of the bushings have worn out

Many times, it is simply due to not loosening all of the suspension pivot point bolts, and re-torquing them to their specific TA values whent he car is sitting on all (4) wheels/tires - loaded.

The best way to perform this is get the car on a drive on lift, or blocks or drive on ramps. The car needs to be level and sitting on all 4.

Loosen all of the suspension pivot point bolts enough to where there is no load on the nuts.

After ALL of them are loose, go ahead and RE-torque them all to OEM specified values.

These pivot points are as follows:

FRONT: (anywhere there are rubber bushings)
Front Radius Control Arm - inner mount
Front Lower Control Arm - inner mount

REAR: (anywhere there are rubber bushings)
Upper Camber Link - inner and outer mounts
Toe Link Outer Knuckle Bushing
Rear Control Arm Front Inner Mount
Rear Control Arm to Knuckle Mounts

Hope this helps! Happy Modding!

:cheers:

Does this need to be done if you are using your SP080 springs? Do I just ask a mechanic to "clock my bushings" after I install the springs? Gearing up for the install, just waiting on Steeda Pro Actions.

luv2spedup · Feb 22, 2017

BDMACH1 said:
This should be made a sticky at the top, most people never think about doing any of this!

Agreed

DarkestHour · Feb 25, 2017

To confirm, when the car is having the alignment done is the best time to do this as doing it in your garage will not be doable without a lift?

BMR Tech Tip: Clock those bushings after lowering your S550!

Rebellion

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MtnBiker

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BmacIL

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BMR Tech

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Bluemustang

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BmacIL

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Dominant1

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Bluemustang

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BMR Tech

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Bluemustang

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BMR Tech

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Bluemustang

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s550v6

Mike

luv2spedup

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DarkestHour

Hi