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BMR Tech Tip: Clock those bushings after lowering your S550!

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Obsessed

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Has anyone had any luck doing this at home without a lift? I was thinking of jacking the front of the car up and then loosening the bushings up then lowering the car and bouncing it around a bit. Then i would drive the car on ramps in the front and jack the rear up to have car be level and re tightening. Can this be done without a lift?

I tried jacking the car up on 4 ramps but there wasn't enough clearance to work, and with no clearance it was too hard to get to the bolts. I'm going to ask the alignment shop to do it.
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evo8904

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I had a shop check mine out and take care of the little noise that I was hearing. Wasn't even an hour of labor. However, I think that this topic should be a sticky.
 

havasu486

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BMR, FTW
 

Obsessed

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I had a shop check mine out and take care of the little noise that I was hearing. Wasn't even an hour of labor. However, I think that this topic should be a sticky.
Did the car drop at all when the did that?

Wish there was a way to determine if this was needed before paying someone to clock the bushing bolts.
 

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dubster99

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Easy way to do this in a garage w/o lift or ramps?
 

mindys

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Need to keep this for reference when I do springs.
 

ForTehNguyen

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Easy way to do this in a garage w/o lift or ramps?
best way i can think of is measure the height from the center of each wheel to the ground, jack up a corner of the car, remove wheel, use a jack to compress suspension to the recorded height measured earlier, then torque down from there. Not sure which bolts will be accessible from this setup. 4 post lift just makes it a lot quicker
 

LETHAL

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Good advice and very often over looked.
 

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rj67

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Anyone successful doing this in their driveway? My LR is too high.
 

hvysoul

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best way i can think of is measure the height from the center of each wheel to the ground, jack up a corner of the car, remove wheel, use a jack to compress suspension to the recorded height measured earlier, then torque down from there. Not sure which bolts will be accessible from this setup. 4 post lift just makes it a lot quicker

I used my floor jack under the rear spring perch and raised the rear suspension to the point where the car just started to raise.
 

dubster99

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His tech tip said car needs to be level and sitting on all 4 wheels.....
 

fifteen5oh

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Can someone make a picture pointing out all the bolts/mounts ?

That would be awesome. Maybe like a small write-up.
 

solshinobi

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Many of our customers in both the GM and Ford segments of our operation, have ride height issues after lowering their vehicles.

Some very common complaints after lowering vehicles are:

-Car did not drop much in the rear

-Car is sitting lop sided

-Car is making noise now

-Car feels very unstable and floaty

-After lowering the car, some of the bushings have worn out


Many times, it is simply due to not loosening all of the suspension pivot point bolts, and re-torquing them to their specific TA values whent he car is sitting on all (4) wheels/tires - loaded.

The best way to perform this is get the car on a drive on lift, or blocks or drive on ramps. The car needs to be level and sitting on all 4.

Loosen all of the suspension pivot point bolts enough to where there is no load on the nuts.

After ALL of them are loose, go ahead and RE-torque them all to OEM specified values.

These pivot points are as follows:

FRONT: (anywhere there are rubber bushings)
Front Radius Control Arm - inner mount
Front Lower Control Arm - inner mount

REAR: (anywhere there are rubber bushings)
Upper Camber Link - inner and outer mounts
Toe Link Outer Knuckle Bushing
Rear Control Arm Front Inner Mount
Rear Control Arm to Knuckle Mounts


Hope this helps! Happy Modding!

:cheers:

[MENTION=9985]BMR Tech[/MENTION]

I have FRPP track shocks and struts in a box at home and bmr SP083 on order. Would i need to "clock the bushings" on these as well? If so, do you have a description of "clocking" for these bushings? I am planning to install these myself when the springs come in. Thanks.
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