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Brake cooling duct project has begun

Dspec_S550

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really cool. great job!
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BTM

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And completed project...


Pretty easy project, minimal fabrication/modification and they don't look bad either.

.......
Hey, here's what it looks like to do the same thing, except be willing to lose the foglights. JLT kit (plugs in for pic - gets removed on track). Our cars are nearly twins... :headbang:
nose view.jpg
 

strengthrehab

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Do the fender liners have to be removed for the installation?
 

Optimum Performance

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Do the fender liners have to be removed for the installation?
Ken,

They do not have to be removed but if you remove some of the push pins required when you pull the bumper cover/under tray you have plenty of access to route the hoses.
 

lugz

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subbed to great thread. Question for [MENTION=21104]BTM[/MENTION] - did the JLT kit come with those plugs or did you dig up something on your own?
 

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BTM

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subbed to great thread. Question for [MENTION=21104]BTM[/MENTION] - did the JLT kit come with those plugs or did you dig up something on your own?
Came with the kit, nice touch to keep road junk and rainwater out of the hoses when not on track.
 

BTM

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Did you notice any ill effects of removing your grill backings?

Hood flutter? increased drag, slower times, etc?
I get just a little bit of hood flutter/shake above 100 miles an hour, but I can't remember if it did a similar thing in stock form, I think it did. The key is to exhaust as much air as you're bringing in, so I have gutted Roush hood vents with dramatically enlarged openings in the hood and hood liner to do that. Other than that, the air conditioning condenser ( it is not the radiator right behind the grill, radiator is behind the condenser ) is a bit more vulnerable, but nothing bad has happened yet. And it is only a $140 part even if I do break it. Oh… And needing to recharge the AC afterwards…

I'm quite sure it is draggier then the stock grill in terms of drag coefficient, but I don't have any scientific testing around lap times or straightaway speeds. I changed so much other stuff on my car around the same time, overall lap times are definitely lower, but it is a mix of all of that stuff, stickier tires, and me getting more comfortable driving the car.

Where I live, we get ambient temperatures above 100° in the summer, and pushing the car hard for 20 minutes above a black track in those conditions was definitely getting engine compartment and cylinder head temps very high. Not a problem anymore, and I also went to the Reische 170° thermostat.

None of this stuff is very relevant to cooler climates or a daily driver that must do everything well…
 

Competition Orange

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I get just a little bit of hood flutter/shake above 100 miles an hour, but I can't remember if it did a similar thing in stock form, I think it did. The key is to exhaust as much air as you're bringing in, so I have gutted Roush hood vents with dramatically enlarged openings in the hood and hood liner to do that. Other than that, the air conditioning condenser ( it is not the radiator right behind the grill, radiator is behind the condenser ) is a bit more vulnerable, but nothing bad has happened yet. And it is only a $140 part even if I do break it. Oh… And needing to recharge the AC afterwards…

I'm quite sure it is draggier then the stock grill in terms of drag coefficient, but I don't have any scientific testing around lap times or straightaway speeds. I changed so much other stuff on my car around the same time, overall lap times are definitely lower, but it is a mix of all of that stuff, stickier tires, and me getting more comfortable driving the car.

Where I live, we get ambient temperatures above 100° in the summer, and pushing the car hard for 20 minutes above a black track in those conditions was definitely getting engine compartment and cylinder head temps very high. Not a problem anymore, and I also went to the Reische 170° thermostat.

None of this stuff is very relevant to cooler climates or a daily driver that must do everything well…
Ok, thanks.

I'm going to remove the rear hood seal and see if that helps, I get a lot of hood movement stock.

I just installed my tow hook, and am getting the car prepped for the season now. Thanks!
 

mnmike59

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Ok, thanks.

I'm going to remove the rear hood seal and see if that helps, I get a lot of hood movement stock.

I just installed my tow hook, and am getting the car prepped for the season now. Thanks!
I get some hood flutter on mine as well above 120. I've been thinking about opening up the front grill a bit, but also creating an exit for the added air flow. This is an exciting time of year for us Northerners. :clap2:
 

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I get some hood flutter on mine as well above 120. I've been thinking about opening up the front grill a bit, but also creating an exit for the added air flow. This is an exciting time of year for us Northerners. :clap2:
I would get hood flutter at speeds above 130 so as an experiment I ran a piece of racers tape across the front of the car were the hood meets the front bumper. That did seem to improve the hood flutter but by the time the car hit 145 the flutter was back.

Over the winter I added a thicker foam rubber seal to the gap just under the hood and between the headlights and the hood to stop air from getting under the hood through those areas. I have not been back on track since to verify my idea but if it works it will be a simple fix. I am also waiting for my hood vents from Trackspec that should be a permanent fix as well as an improvement in air flow through the engine bay.

Dave
 

higdominator

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I also have used rubber seal on top of the headlights running from the radiator cover to the fender seals. I haven't hit a track yet but a few test runs show a bit less shake. I think a lot of it is also the thin aluminum hood skin. It flexes quite easily.

My next mod to improve airflow management is a set of bigger vents, likely the ones from Velox for the S550 GT. I currently have gutted roush.
 

Jeffy_2010

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Just to revive this, has anyone started mass producing the vents to go behind the lower grill yet?
 

Jeffy_2010

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Not that I have seen, would be a great sell.
I think I'm gonna have the custom shop that always works on my car fab up something and use the FTB plate
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