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Tune your magnaride!!!!!

meares

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what are your new tires?


No disrespect, but anyone that wishes to turn an R into a Cadillac might need a driver mind mod...

My R is perfect as it is on back roads, intermediates and interstates... I did initially have issues with tramlining but changing the tires was the best mod for better street manners. Altering the suspension software just to get better street manners is akin to putting a supercharger on the VooDoo just to get better 1/4-mile times.

Amazes me what people are willing to do to their cars to alter them from their intended purpose... but, then again, it is your car and your money.
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Hack

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I love the idea, not because I think Ford engineers are incompetent, but because they did a separate GT350 and R Magneride tune/setup. Many people will be buying light weight track wheels and/or changing tires for track days. With lighter wheels the Ford setup will no longer be as optimized as it is with the factory wheels.

I also like the idea of being able to dig into the Magneride and mess with it. I'm amazed that something is available so quickly. The aftermarket really responds with new products in a short amount of time!
 

firestarter2

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I'm interested I find the ride in normal mode rough. Not that id ever in it lol

I want to lower the car
 
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oldmachguy

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No disrespect, but anyone that wishes to turn an R into a Cadillac might need a driver mind mod...

My R is perfect as it is on back roads, intermediates and interstates... I did initially have issues with tramlining but changing the tires was the best mod for better street manners. Altering the suspension software just to get better street manners is akin to putting a supercharger on the VooDoo just to get better 1/4-mile times.

Amazes me what people are willing to do to their cars to alter them from their intended purpose... but, then again, it is your car and your money.
No disrespect taken, but I think you missed my point, or, more likely, I was less than clear.

I'm 56. I've daily driven a 2004 Mach 1 the last 144,000 miles - with very stiff Eibach Sportlines, Tokico Illuminas (set on 5 up front), MM CC plates, etc., and 275's square. I've tracked it and DD'd it. I also tracked and DD'd a 2006 Z06 for a few years. The Mach's stablemate, which I've had since '79, was built in 1965. It's louder and stiffer than the Mach. I tracked it and DD'd it (in college).

I definitely like my DD quite a bit stiffer than most would care for, especially at my age, so my recommendation had nothing to do with reducing the wear and tear on me. (Otherwise, I would have ordered an ATS-V, not an R.) Instead, it had to do with reducing wear and tear on the R.

This DSC tuning technology enables the magnaride hardware to deliver a much smoother ride on the street, especially over really rough roads, while significantly improving track performance. The former should dramatically reduce the wear and tear on control arm bushings, front and rear, caster-camber plate bearings (if you have them), and delay the onset of all kinds of rattles (under dash, instrument bezel, headliner - you name it). On Mustangs, that's huge. I just replaced all six control arms, and 12 control arm bushings on the Mach because they had been completely destroyed by 144,000 miles on my rough riding suspension, on our rough roads in Dallas. (I will supply pics, if anyone wants to see the damage stiff suspension and rough roads will do to a daily driver).

And since this DSC tuner gives you a tune, I'm pretty sure you can set it to "stiff" when you want, and "soft" when you want, just like the "loud" switch for the exhaust. I'm willing to sacrifice some of my driving fun if softening the suspension for some in-town driving, especially on certain roads, will help reduce the wear on my R.


And, FWIW, at Texas World Speedway, with 2:08's in the Mach on street tires, and 1:58's in the Z06 on EMT's, the folks who asked me to be an instructor with their HPDE group apparently didn't think I needed a driver mod. But I drive just for fun, every chance I get, as long as it's safe.
 

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No disrespect, but anyone that wishes to turn an R into a Cadillac might need a driver mind mod...

My R is perfect as it is on back roads, intermediates and interstates... I did initially have issues with tramlining but changing the tires was the best mod for better street manners. Altering the suspension software just to get better street manners is akin to putting a supercharger on the VooDoo just to get better 1/4-mile times.

Amazes me what people are willing to do to their cars to alter them from their intended purpose... but, then again, it is your car and your money.
With all do respect and I enjoy your post, all cars can be improved upon. What is perfect for one might need advancement to another. I'm not in anyway saying the GT350/R needs help. It is a great car and I love mine. Is it perfect to me from the factory? 90% YES!
Imagine if ford allowed the engineers free range to do what they wanted and to keep the car within safety specs and within a budget without bean counters.
If it were up to me the first thing I would of not done is use any rubber suspension bushings. I'd ditch them and use bearings. Second I would of ditched the stock GT350 cast wheel boat anchors, aluminum doors, aluminum deck lid, aluminum K-member, aluminum front control arms, aluminum IRS cradle, aluminum differential housing, and a PDK transmission. I know it's $$$ but I can dream.
 

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No disrespect taken, but I think you missed my point, or, more likely, I was less than clear.

I'm 56. I've daily driven a 2004 Mach 1 the last 144,000 miles - with very stiff Eibach Sportlines, Tokico Illuminas (set on 5 up front), MM CC plates, etc., and 275's square. I've tracked it and DD'd it. I also tracked and DD'd a 2006 Z06 for a few years. The Mach's stablemate, which I've had since '79, was built in 1965. It's louder and stiffer than the Mach. I tracked it and DD'd it (in college).

I definitely like my DD quite a bit stiffer than most would care for, especially at my age, so my recommendation had nothing to do with reducing the wear and tear on me. (Otherwise, I would have ordered an ATS-V, not an R.) Instead, it had to do with reducing wear and tear on the R.

This DSC tuning technology enables the magnaride hardware to deliver a much smoother ride on the street, especially over really rough roads, while significantly improving track performance. The former should dramatically reduce the wear and tear on control arm bushings, front and rear, caster-camber plate bearings (if you have them), and delay the onset of all kinds of rattles (under dash, instrument bezel, headliner - you name it). On Mustangs, that's huge. I just replaced all six control arms, and 12 control arm bushings on the Mach because they had been completely destroyed by 144,000 miles on my rough riding suspension, on our rough roads in Dallas. (I will supply pics, if anyone wants to see the damage stiff suspension and rough roads will do to a daily driver).

And since this DSC tuner gives you a tune, I'm pretty sure you can set it to "stiff" when you want, and "soft" when you want, just like the "loud" switch for the exhaust. I'm willing to sacrifice some of my driving fun if softening the suspension for some in-town driving, especially on certain roads, will help reduce the wear on my R.


And, FWIW, at Texas World Speedway, with 2:08's in the Mach on street tires, and 1:58's in the Z06 on EMT's, the folks who asked me to be an instructor with their HPDE group apparently didn't think I needed a driver mod. But I drive just for fun, every chance I get, as long as it's safe.
Ahhhhh... I gotcha. That makes much more sense. Thanks for the clarification. I'll be looking forward to your results.
 

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With all do respect and I enjoy your post, all cars can be improved upon. What is perfect for one might need advancement to another. I'm not in anyway saying the GT350/R needs help. It is a great car and I love mine. Is it perfect to me from the factory? 90% YES!
Imagine if ford allowed the engineers free range to do what they wanted and to keep the car within safety specs and within a budget without bean counters.
If it were up to me the first thing I would of not done is use any rubber suspension bushings. I'd ditch them and use bearings. Second I would of ditched the stock GT350 cast wheel boat anchors, aluminum doors, aluminum deck lid, aluminum K-member, aluminum front control arms, aluminum IRS cradle, aluminum differential housing, and a PDK transmission. I know it's $$$ but I can dream.
Simple misunderstanding bro... his explanation was crystal. Thanks.
 

zombiekiller

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I'm in. I'll let you know when I get one.
im interested to hear your thoughts after trying it out..

I've got ridetech stuff on my galaxie. Her big ass hustles around an autocross. very happy with the stuff that they put out and their willingness to help home fabricators ( me being one of them) use their brackets, kits, etc.

Net/net i like what they do. Most everyone in the protouring world uses them.

It intrigues me to think that the s550 irs and gt350 front suspension measures within 1/4" of track width of a galaxie.

It's also interesting that there is an insurance auction depot very very close to me and a rust free 66 galaxie body in my yard. :mullet:

If this would be a way to use magneride and s550 suspension on another galaxie, I'd be pretty interested.
 

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im interested to hear your thoughts after trying it out..

I've got ridetech stuff on my galaxie. Her big ass hustles around an autocross. very happy with the stuff that they put out and their willingness to help home fabricators ( me being one of them) use their brackets, kits, etc.

Net/net i like what they do. Most everyone in the protouring world uses them.

It intrigues me to think that the s550 irs and gt350 front suspension measures within 1/4" of track width of a galaxie.

It's also interesting that there is an insurance auction depot very very close to me and a rust free 66 galaxie body in my yard. :mullet:

If this would be a way to use magneride and s550 suspension on another galaxie, I'd be pretty interested.
Funny you say all of this, because I have an all original 1956 F100 with original paint and drivetrain. With 27000 original miles and I've also considered S550 suspension on my truck. But it's to original and clean I can't bring myself to change it.
Your galaxie sounds pretty bad ass!!
I've used ridetech on a few customers cars. I'm building a 1967 nova II for a customer now. I custom built a complete 2x4 frame with 9" ford 3 link rear suspension and mustang II type front suspension. I've removed the complete floor pan, hand made formed floor pans, wheel tubs, firewall, core support, inner aprons, trans tunnel, stretched the rear wheel wells for the 315/35 rear tires.
I made it so the body can be removed from the frame (was originally a uni-body) it also no longer has the front removable clip (stock the front frame rails and clip bolted to the firewall) The frame rails I made are 1 piece fabricated instead of tube. Basically 4 pieces welded together and metal finished. Looks like hydro formed tube. The floor pan is double walled and will sandwich the wiring harness, brake lines, fuel lines and AC lines so everything is hidden and clean. Even looking under the car all you'll see is the frame and floor pan. No lines, wires, etc. I made beading dies for my pullmax to put 2-1/8" wide beads in the floor pans to stiffen the sheet metal but to also follow the frame rails and crossmembers and Frame X. I still have a ton to do and it eats up a lot of time.
I hand formed the wheel tubs, aprons, firewall, coresupport, and transmission tunnel by making bucks from MDF and hammer forming the metal to shape then using my planishing hammer to finish to a flawless finish.
It'll be powered by a new LS3 crate engine and a 4L80E trans.
Wish it was a Falcon lol.
He's a good customer and this is the 3 car my dad and I have done for him. 67 impala, 67 C10 and now this 67 Nova. Yeah I know he likes 67's lol.
 

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