Need Help for 9speaker upgrade

Hello All,
I am new to Audio world but I have learned a lot from this forum about upgrading. I read multiple post and I still can not figure out configurations.
Here we go fellow members. I personally replaced the factory speakers with JBLs just in the doors and rear deck. I also installed a amplified 8in Bazooka Tube but I am still not satisified with volume and sound.
After reading numerous of posts I want to go with the JL Audio stealthbox sub.
I need a amp to push the stealthbox ( suggestions please) and do I need a 4 channel amp (suggestions) to push the JBLs? How do I replace the factory amp with the new amp and do I have to run new speaker wires etc. Like I said I installed the sub and speakers myself butI may be out of my skill set for what I want.
Forum please help me out or do I need a professional? Does anybody approve of Best Buy butI really want to try myself.
Thank you,

hmm I was in the same boat. I did not replace my door or deck speakers, but I did add a comp 10 inch sub to my system. I had a local car shop build me a box by taking a mold of where the Sub box goes, (like the OEM and JL Box), then I picked up an Alpine MRV-M500, and a LC2ib base controller. Came out great.

Now the same shop said if I wanted to replace the speakers as well and keep the same setup, I needed to go to a 5 channel amp, and a LC8i controller. That would basically keep everything the same in the system and power the aftermarket speakers if I went that route.

I just wanted some more bass, so I am happy with what I am running now.

Thank you Ninjak for the response

I wish the there was a sticky for each of the types of stereo options. I am trying to find the easiest way to upgrade my 9 speaker like you are but just want to add a small sub.

yomamma219 said:

I wish the there was a sticky for each of the types of stereo options. I am trying to find the easiest way to upgrade my 9 speaker like you are but just want to add a small sub.

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Easiest way is to swap to the shaker DSP/Amp and use the sub out into an aftermarket amp. I'm also confused with this obsession with JBL speakers, JBL hasn't made anything worth buying in 15 years.

Yeah, JBL is not a great speaker. But anyway, I had a Sync 2. I installed the Tesla android unit which does not work with Premium. So, I added a 4 channel amp,unplugged my stock amp and used the wires to tap in with my new amp. I also have 2x10" subs powered by a 2x1200w rms amp

HextallS550 said:

Easiest way is to swap to the shaker DSP/Amp and use the sub out into an aftermarket amp. I'm also confused with this obsession with JBL speakers, JBL hasn't made anything worth buying in 15 years.

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The shaker pro amp is better than the 9 speaker amp?

Not easy to change the stereos in cars today; everything is f'ing integrated.

BEST approach is to get a processor (Audison bit.1, Rockford Fosgate 360.3, etc.) and pipe in the factory signal to it, allow the processor to flatten it and then from there you can tailor the sound to your liking. A competent shop can tune a car very nicely.

JBL's car speakers aren't awful. What's awful is people's obsession with Kicker.

IMHO, the best BUDGET (car audio-branded) speaker is Infinity Reference. Rule #1 is the quality of the installation, not the speaker choice. You have to seal that door to get the midbass you expect. The Ford Fiesta, for example, has a plastic piece that seals the holes in the inner door skin creating, effectively a more-or-less sealed enclosed. Off of ONLY an aftermarket Alpine deck power, my Infinity Reference speakers in that car sounded great and produced enough bass that I didn't bother with a subwoofer. On the flipside, I put better speakers in my Chevy pickup truck that had holes for days in the inner skin of the door and found the car to have far LESS midbass/bass than before. So I went back in, sealed the door with carefully cut 1/4" HDPE plastic and a light smattering of some Stinger Roadkill (Dynamat). I set up two tune scenarios, one that would disable the subwoofer amplifier and not run the subs. In the no-sub scenario, tons of people thought I had subwoofers running but it was just a 3-way Pioneer Stage 4 component set with a 6.5" mid-bass in the front doors (no rear speakers).

HextallS550 said:

Easiest way is to swap to the shaker DSP/Amp and use the sub out into an aftermarket amp. I'm also confused with this obsession with JBL speakers, JBL hasn't made anything worth buying in 15 years.

Click to expand...

I haven't seen too much information on this swap, but it seems to make sense. Wouldn't it throw off my balance since I am missing the additional 2 speakers the pro has (I think they are just 2 way rear deck speakers if I recall).

Yea my current impression of JBL car audio is that they are the top of the line walmart brand lol. I consider the factory 9 speakers sufficient for my needs, I just wish it was easier to add a small sub as I want a tiny bit more thump. A nice low profile 8 inch sub would more than suffice for me. I can't justify spending more than 500 on such a silly need though.

yomamma219 said:

I haven't seen too much information on this swap, but it seems to make sense. Wouldn't it throw off my balance since I am missing the additional 2 speakers the pro has (I think they are just 2 way rear deck speakers if I recall).

Yea my current impression of JBL car audio is that they are the top of the line walmart brand lol. I consider the factory 9 speakers sufficient for my needs, I just wish it was easier to add a small sub as I want a tiny bit more thump. A nice low profile 8 inch sub would more than suffice for me. I can't justify spending more than 500 on such a silly need though.

Click to expand...

It is very easy to add subs. Takes about 30 minutes to run power cable from the battery. Just use a cheap line out converter and tap into rear deck speakers. Find a remote power lead, I used the power wire to backup camera. Throw the subs and amp in and you are good. Takes about an hour install. It doesn't sound as good as getting the signal from preamp outs from a stereo, but it does fine. One hour and you have yourself some bass.

yomamma219 said:

I haven't seen too much information on this swap, but it seems to make sense. Wouldn't it throw off my balance since I am missing the additional 2 speakers the pro has (I think they are just 2 way rear deck speakers if I recall).

Yea my current impression of JBL car audio is that they are the top of the line walmart brand lol. I consider the factory 9 speakers sufficient for my needs, I just wish it was easier to add a small sub as I want a tiny bit more thump. A nice low profile 8 inch sub would more than suffice for me. I can't justify spending more than 500 on such a silly need though.

Click to expand...

I added a Punch 12. All parts was less than $250 and it's boom more than I need

pike1346 said:

I added a Punch 12. All parts was less than $250 and it's boom more than I need

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[MENTION=22400]pike1346[/MENTION] mind explaining where you tapped into for the audio signal? Did you already have the 12 speaker system with the factory sub?

yomamma219 said:

@pike1346 mind explaining where you tapped into for the audio signal? Did you already have the 12 speaker system with the factory sub?

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I just installed this same sub in my 9-speaker system (and I love it, btw). You have to tap into the rear deck speaker wires for the signal. Here is a very helpful post that I used as my guide:

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25481

I soldered all my spliced connections, but I think there are other ways to do it if you don't like or know how to solder. Also, you can tap into the 12V switched wire to use as the "shutoff signal" for the amp (tells the amp to turn off when the car is turned off), or you can just setup the Rockford powered sub so that it will shut off automatically when it senses no signal. I did the former, as I was already tapping into all of the speaker wires so why not?

Thanks for that link [MENTION=16089]HappySquirrel[/MENTION]. I have seen mixed reviews on this method so I wasn't sure how valid his comment was but yours lends it enough credence for me to start planning this out.

Questions though: I have an ecoboost, already unplugged the rear mic, but I plan to plug it back in after I get the FP Tune. Can you confirm that the bass doesn't go crazy with the mic unplugged? Since you seem pleased, I will assume you unplugged the mic also and everything sounds normal.

How did you run the power wire? I don't currently have a jack or torque wrench for re-mounting a wheel so this is currently one of the major hurdles I am facing for this being a DIY project.

Do you have a 9 speaker system or 6? I am curious how the EQ and balance/fade settings will effect the bass output. I would like something that integrates as seamlessly as possible with the factory 9 speaker system. My concern arises from the fact I have read the rear speakers are played very loudly when everything is default. This makes me curious what kind of bass would be getting sent to the rear speakers (therefore subwoofer).

The biggest overall question/concern I have with this is where to source the audio signal from. Here you say rear speaker signal works but I have seen other people complain about issues with that. Hope to get some sort of concrete confirmation one way or another.

HappySquirrel said:

I just installed this same sub in my 9-speaker system (and I love it, btw). You have to tap into the rear deck speaker wires for the signal. Here is a very helpful post that I used as my guide:

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25481

I soldered all my spliced connections, but I think there are other ways to do it if you don't like or know how to solder. Also, you can tap into the 12V switched wire to use as the "shutoff signal" for the amp (tells the amp to turn off when the car is turned off), or you can just setup the Rockford powered sub so that it will shut off automatically when it senses no signal. I did the former, as I was already tapping into all of the speaker wires so why not?

Click to expand...

yomamma219 said:

Thanks for that link @HappySquirrel . I have seen mixed reviews on this method so I wasn't sure how valid his comment was but yours lends it enough credence for me to start planning this out.

Questions though: I have an ecoboost, already unplugged the rear mic, but I plan to plug it back in after I get the FP Tune. Can you confirm that the bass doesn't go crazy with the mic unplugged? Since you seem pleased, I will assume you unplugged the mic also and everything sounds normal.

How did you run the power wire? I don't currently have a jack or torque wrench for re-mounting a wheel so this is currently one of the major hurdles I am facing for this being a DIY project.

Do you have a 9 speaker system or 6? I am curious how the EQ and balance/fade settings will effect the bass output. I would like something that integrates as seamlessly as possible with the factory 9 speaker system. My concern arises from the fact I have read the rear speakers are played very loudly when everything is default. This makes me curious what kind of bass would be getting sent to the rear speakers (therefore subwoofer).

The biggest overall question/concern I have with this is where to source the audio signal from. Here you say rear speaker signal works but I have seen other people complain about issues with that. Hope to get some sort of concrete confirmation one way or another.

Click to expand...

Actually, you will want to unplug the mic. I had mine plugged in at first, and if you install an aftermarket sub with the mic still working shit goes crazy. You get this weird nasty hard to describe noise that comes and goes, especially at low rpms. Others have verified this problem. I disconnect my mic and it went away instantly. Also, I have an aftermarket exhaust so that could have compounded the issue. I would imagine you can probably reconnect the mic once you have the FP tune, as I believe that tune deactivates the car's sound enhancement. So yeah, you'll need to unplug the mic if you install a sub.

I ran the power cable through the passenger side, through the fender/wheelwell (I'm actually working on a write up on this entire install for this forum). I've read that it is possible to go through the passenger side without jacking up the car and removing the wheel, but I can't imagine how. That sounds like a PITA. You can also go through the driver's side, but that involves running your power cable all the way across your engine bay (no thanks), and I'm not sure how you get into the cabin on that side. I have seen one or two people on this forum who did it that way.

I have the 9 speaker system and it integrated perfectly (minus the cabin mic issue) IMO. After a few adjustments I can say the system sounds waaaay better. My particular powered sub, the Punch 12, has a remote gain/volume control which helps immensely. The sub is loud enough that most of the time I only have it set a little over 1/4 volume. There is also a crossover control and you can flip the polarity. I haven't played around with the head unit's EQ (I think everything is set to flat at the moment). I'm pretty happy with the system right now. I might replace my tweeters at some point, as the highs coming out of them still sound a bit piercing at times, and I've read that replacing those tweeters (and using better crossovers) helps roll off the highs just a bit. But I am totally pleased with this sub, especially considering the price. I would totally choose this one again.

As for issues with running the signal inputs directly from the rear deck speakers, that's the first I've heard of anyone complaining about it. I don't have the best ears (lots of tinnitus from too much loud music) but it sounds good to me. I can actually hear significant bass from my system for the first time and everything is much more balanced. NO RAGRETS.