Agreed and I will probably go the Sync 3 route first. I actually had a life as an installer with my own large SPL system and then I grew into sound clarity comps. Image Dynamics with some MB Quart stuff.
So I've been doing this since 95-96. I always ran Alpine HUs with PPI Amplifiers, MB Quart components and JL subs. Then I heard Dynaudio drivers and never went back to metal domes. If you like it that bright, Dr Mueller (the M in MB Quart) is the component speaker designer at JL Audio. But if you want something more natural Hybrid Audio Clarus is my budget choice.
I seriously did not and still do not understand why you ran your ground cables from the front to the back. Ground is ground and the shorter the better.Why not both!:lol: Not as big but I'm putting two 12" Fi SP4v2's on about 8kW into my mustang :headbonk:
The body of the car cant conduct electricity as good as a copper wire. Especially newer cars that dont have a real frame and are just several pieces of metal welded together. Hundreds of amps dont flow well through sheet metal welds as well as OFC. On smaller systems it wont be an issue but on large systems that will be a bottleneck.
I'll gladly purchase one that plugs into the amp with just the RCA connectors to add a subwoofer as soon as you have these available. That's seriously the only thing that's been holding me back from adding a stealthbox is the lack of true connection possibilities, and not having the tools to create the plug anymore like I used to be able to.
I was in a truck with a frame. I am Quality Assurance guy by education and trade. Bonding, shielding, and grounding is my one area of concentration.
Are you talking about the signal processing coming from the head unit? The bass roll-off as the volume goes up?
You do. It's pretty simple. The voltage that I'm referring to is the line level voltage that the ACM produces when you have it in what I will call pre-amp mode. This is the mode that Premium cars come with. The voltage I have measured was a solid 3.8-4.2 volts. Now let's be clear, back in the day aftermarket HUs would advertise 4V pre-outs all on the higher hend HUs. But then Ken Pohlman and they guys who wrote inbiased reviews in the car stereo rags were smart enough to hook one to a scope and see that that 4V out was really only 1.75-2.2 V nominally, most of the time you had to turn it all the way up and play 1 Hz test tones to hit 4V. Even then you weren't guaranteed the signal would not clip somewhere before max volume. The ACM in these cars has the BEST line level out voltage I have seen. And I have been around since 1995. This is another reason why I believe that the Sync 3 in combination with a DSP such as the Helix is a better option than aftermarket units.
There are two versions, the ACM-RCA out which is more for base cars or base cars that upgrade to Sync 3 and then there is the DSP/Amp-RCA harness which is for Premium cars. Both allow RCA out directly to a DSP or amplifier. I am trying to find someone in Columbus or Cincinnati, Ohio who has a Premium and wants to add aftermarket amplifiers/DSP so that I can test the Premium harness. Once I have that I can make them.
The ACM doesn't have a sub out, and to be honest there's no reason to use rear speakers. Use the rear RCA out for a sub. Unless you're using a DSP.
that makes sense, are you making these cables?
