Keep in mind that most grill will need to be opened up or cut out on the ends to make this work to its full benefit. As long as the grill design has that triangle in the end then it should work with some cutting.
You are 100% correct. I think that may have been a mistake, one of my local S550s came over, he had the roush grille and it seems to me that it is unlikely to fit. I have to remove that. Thank you!
Dang, this would go perfect with my new CAI I have on the way. If you guys had some proof/pics that it fit after cutting off those slits of plastic from the Roush grill I would for sure buy one!
I'd say hood closed too, because hood open dynos are great for parked hp numbers, not actual driving. We don't drive with the hood wide open, so why dyno that way. It's pointless. Next, there is no such thing as "ram air" I worked for Pontiac when they were developing the "ram air" hood. Air actually "only" gets sucked in above 60 mph, not rammed. Lastly, lots and lots of testing has been done on after market CAI's. They are worthless on NA cars, 100%... The only reason how some show hp increase, is with the "hood wide open", on the dyno, with a big fan blowing on it. Tests have found that the only way your going to get actual "ram air" into those scoops reliably, is if they stick 6-8" out in front of the bumper/hood, which would look really silly. There's a motorcycle that did a little big extended I take tube, out in front of the headlights, it was the 2000-2004 Ninja ZX12R. It's intake scoops actually stuck out 4" infront of the headlights, into the actual airflow. So while this "might" lower your intake temps by 3-7 degrees, that's not enough to make any perceived increase in power from temp drop. You'd need a consistent 11-14 degrees to notice it. But, above 60 mph, you might notice a brief 6-8 hp increase when u dear throttle. You just won't realize benefits during in town drives. Great idea though. Extend those snorkels out infront by 3-5", it might not look to bad. Try it. You'll be amazed at what it'll do, for actually getting into the airflow ove the front of the car. It does look good. To bad ford can't put some brightness into the dull, dim DRL led tri-bar lights in the headlights. They are barely visible in daylight and when head on. Develop a brighter bulb for those tires-bar LED's and you'll have a nice fix. Diaode Dynamics product is garbage.
Yes of course the ram air effect is minimal and I've said it here before, but it is positive air pressure at higher speeds rather than negative. I've also stated that this system with closed air box design really goes after the low speed city driving and stop and go traffic where engine heat builds up fast. I record my IAT1 and IAT 2 and I regularly see spikes of 70 degrees in IAT 1 during 75-80 degree ambient days and idle and slow driving around town. Of course IAT 2 is the real tell in this story and that is not as dramatically affected becuase of the the heat scrubbed off by the intercooler. However IAT1 does play a big roll in that it's the starting point, and cooler is always better. So far this system has worked as planned and as I thought, with significantly reduced temps around town and idle and marginal temp drops during steady cruise. Now IAT1 at idle for 5 minutes when engine is fulley warmed is resultind in a 20-25 degree rise and it's a much much slower increase. More testing to come, and will report back.
I want to suck mosquitoes out of the Woods!:eyebulge::lol::clap2:
Here is a pic of the back side cut. Basically cut out as much as you want, the more you cut out the larger the hole and more of the big mouth will show from the front. I cute about 1/4" past the molding step in the grill. Use tape to mark it and a dremel with a plastic cutting disc works great. Finished with coarse sanding block to smooth the edges
This is what the Roush grill looks like I have, I would have to cut out the plastic in between the grill because it doesn't have the triangle. The Roush grill is also more pushed out I believe. I would totally take on this project, just don't want to waste the money on the piece if the grill isn't far enough inward to hold it in place :shrug:
Shawn, thanks for the tips and links on both the grill and airbox. Appreciate your attitude and desire to pass along information on modifications that work for you. Was looking for a new grill, but really like the angles of the stock one versus the RTR. I think I'll try out both mods.Here is a pic of the back side cut. Basically cut out as much as you want, the more you cut out the larger the hole and more of the big mouth will show from the front. I cute about 1/4" past the molding step in the grill. Use tape to mark it and a dremel with a plastic cutting disc works great. Finished with coarse sanding block to smooth the edges
Here is how is recommend to Ben cut by customscargrill.com
I wouldn't worry about the grill being more forward. My grill is a billet replacement grill that has much more room behind it than the original. The Big Mouth doesn't need the grill to secure it as it surrounds the stock pass through and won't budge. My front grill has no contact with it.This is what the Roush grill looks like I have, I would have to cut out the plastic in between the grill because it doesn't have the triangle. The Roush grill is also more pushed out I believe. I would totally take on this project, just don't want to waste the money on the piece if the grill isn't far enough inward to hold it in place :shrug:
I'll hold off until there is any verification it would work!
That gives me some hope! I was under the impression that the grill (more specifically the triangle area being so far in) was what is holding it in there
Nope. The odd shaped pass through and some fiddling to get it in there around the stock piece makes it stay there with ease. Just drive faster and the RAM air will help keep it in place. That last sentence is of course for entertainment purposes only. You will be more than fine.
Awesome!! I had NO IDEA you installed the BIG MOUTH on a roush grill, good job!
