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Installing BMR lockout cradle

BmacIL

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Installed mine today. Car feels planted, and already had the red diff bushings and alignment sleeves from Steeda. I love the ride, but since putting the CB005 kit in I now have an audible vibration coming from the rear end anytime I let off the gas in 6th.
That's the diff bushings.
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YukonRally

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Started doing some searching and looks like it's the combo of the diff bushings with the lockout kit that's causing it like you said, Bmac. I wasn't getting this NVH with just the diff bushings, but thought the CB005 would be a nice improvement. The noise is pretty annoying though, so I'm thinking of pulling the bushing kit. The car handles fantastic, so I think I can sacrifice the diff bushings without losing too much handling wise, while making the ride more comfortable.
 

BMR Tech

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I removed my CB005 today from one of my cars that also has our poly diff insert kit, and I saw a decent bit of reduction in NVH.

The combination of both can definitely be more than some people bargained for. Very subjective, many say they don't even notice.

If I had to choose, I would choose the CB005 all day everyday over a diff bushing upgrade.
 

BMR Tech

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Also, same can be said for the RLCA bearing upgrade.

Before I did the RLCA bearing upgrade, I had all of the other modifications and that bearing kit definitely made the other components rear their heads. Nothing serious, but definitely noticeable.
 

YukonRally

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That's why I'm leaning towards removing the bushings. I think the benefits of the CB005 outweighs the diff bushings. I'd rather have the noise comfort over having both kits installed.
 

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BmacIL

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That's why I'm leaning towards removing the bushings. I think the benefits of the CB005 outweighs the diff bushings. I'd rather have the noise comfort over having both kits installed.
This is exactly why I haven't and probably won't do the diff bushings.
 

catchthecarp

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How long is it to install and what is the level of complexity?

Thanks.
Installed the CB005 kit few minutes ago, I'd rate my wrenching skills as above an amateur, I'm willing to tackle the easy to moderate stuff. Did it on jack stands, left the rear tires on the car. Installed a side at a time. The passenger side was done first, rear first and then the front, no problems, went smoothly. I had a little difficulty with the driver side front 21mm bolt which was done last. The 21mm bolt would bind when the brace was fully inserted. Supported cradle with floor jack and loosened the rear 21mm bolt until I could get the cradle to move a little by prying using the 2 holes in the rear. Eventually I was able to get the front 21mm bolt to go in clean and true with an assist from son who did the prying. Install took 2 hours start to finish with 30+ minutes working on the last front bolt. Things I would do differently: Install the fronts first. Removed the tires, this would have made maneuvering under the car much easier. Now for a shower, test drive and a few cold ones....
 

YukonRally

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I removed my CB005 today from one of my cars that also has our poly diff insert kit, and I saw a decent bit of reduction in NVH.

The combination of both can definitely be more than some people bargained for. Very subjective, many say they don't even notice.

If I had to choose, I would choose the CB005 all day everyday over a diff bushing upgrade.
I removed the diff bushings today and it's back to being nice and quiet (relatively).
 

BradleyMac

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I installed my CB005 last week on my 2017 GT PP and it was about a 2.5hr job at home in my garage (between jacking, stands, torquing etc.). Bit of a challenge to get the torque wrench on the large back bolts with the exhaust and rear stabilizer bar not allowing much room to move the wrench. I took my time to ensure everything lined up nice.

Slight increase in noise and the car rides just a little firmer as it's no longer sitting on the rubber inserts. The cracks in the pavement are the worst for noise, but if the pavement is smooth very little noticeable increase in noise.

I still get a little wheel hop, but overall it's a big improvement to the original set up which had harsh wheel hop.
 

Nagare

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Wondering if you guys can help me out between what I did yesterday. I got in:
- CB005
- Steeda Pro-Action non-adjustable shocks/struts
- Eibach Sportlines (with their bumpstops all around, reused the stock dust cover for the rear)

The CB005 was a breeze for me because I went to a garage that had a full lift. I wasn't sure how I'd feel working on the car at all (first time doing anything tbh) so I started with that and I'd say after it was lifted it was about a 1 hour job then I went to the front struts and then the rear shocks (where I figured out that I had to basically undo the CBO005! Ended up being at the garage for 8 hours total, on the dot rolling in from 2:45 to 10:45.

HOWEVER, I now have a kind of clunking noise coming from the back which I have no idea what it could be. I did take a few pictures which are attached, but nothing detailed really. The clunks come when going over bumps (even small ones is what it seemed like).

Any idea what it could be?


Can't really give any driving impressions because that clunking noise is making me worry!

edit » if it's relevant I also put on 25mm spacers last night. Also just noticed in the first picture it looks like there may be a crack there along the metal piece to the right of the front BMR piece, is that how it normally looks...

edit 2 » not sure if clunking or "banging" is a better descriptor, last night when I was driving home it sounded like stuff was fall around the trunk which made sense because I tossed all the old parts in there, but this morning there was nothing in the trunk but my speakers and lawn chair as normal.
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wireeater

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Wondering if you guys can help me out between what I did yesterday. I got in:
- CB005
- Steeda Pro-Action non-adjustable shocks/struts
- Eibach Sportlines (with their bumpstops all around, reused the stock dust cover for the rear)

The CB005 was a breeze for me because I went to a garage that had a full lift. I wasn't sure how I'd feel working on the car at all (first time doing anything tbh) so I started with that and I'd say after it was lifted it was about a 1 hour job then I went to the front struts and then the rear shocks (where I figured out that I had to basically undo the CBO005! Ended up being at the garage for 8 hours total, on the dot rolling in from 2:45 to 10:45.

HOWEVER, I now have a kind of clunking noise coming from the back which I have no idea what it could be. I did take a few pictures which are attached, but nothing detailed really. The clunks come when going over bumps (even small ones is what it seemed like).

Any idea what it could be?


Can't really give any driving impressions because that clunking noise is making me worry!

edit » if it's relevant I also put on 25mm spacers last night. Also just noticed in the first picture it looks like there may be a crack there along the metal piece to the right of the front BMR piece, is that how it normally looks...

edit 2 » not sure if clunking or "banging" is a better descriptor, last night when I was driving home it sounded like stuff was fall around the trunk which made sense because I tossed all the old parts in there, but this morning there was nothing in the trunk but my speakers and lawn chair as normal.
Shock Mount. Quite a few of us have gotten it with aftermarket shocks. Either it's not tightened enough between the nut and the shaft, or it's busted. For some shocks you have to put a hex key on top of the shaft to prevent it from turning when tightening it. I usually take a set of vice grips and attach them which prevents it from turning for the most part but just make sure it's not going to tear them up. Or get new shock mounts.

I know the exact sound you have because I've had it for a year since going to coilovers and it drives me crazy. It's a loud thud sound in the trunk but really it's coming from the side of the wheel well were the mount is.
 

Nagare

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Motherfuckin shock mount...I installed it wrong the first time and didn't notice until I was ready to get everything bolted back down and the wheels back on and it just looked off.

I did try to use the hex key while I was tightening but the whole getting the mount back on with Steeda's spacer + two jam nuts was annoying (even more so getting it off and doing it again).

How can I tell whether it's not tightened enough vs it being busted? I'll have to drive again to tell whether it is just one side or both.

Just looked at the instructions again and have no clue how I fucked it up the first time, it's clear as day which way it goes lol
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Nagare

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[MENTION=25003]wireeater[/MENTION] I know you said you've had the sound for months so does that mean its okay to drive around on for awhile or no? I can turn up my music and tune it out like for a few days...
 

wireeater

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[MENTION=25003]wireeater[/MENTION] I know you said you've had the sound for months so does that mean its okay to drive around on for awhile or no? I can turn up my music and tune it out like for a few days...
I haven't died yet nor has the car broke, it just sounds like complete shit when you hit a bump.
 

BradleyMac

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Shock Mount. Quite a few of us have gotten it with aftermarket shocks. Either it's not tightened enough between the nut and the shaft, or it's busted. For some shocks you have to put a hex key on top of the shaft to prevent it from turning when tightening it. I usually take a set of vice grips and attach them which prevents it from turning for the most part but just make sure it's not going to tear them up. Or get new shock mounts.

I know the exact sound you have because I've had it for a year since going to coilovers and it drives me crazy. It's a loud thud sound in the trunk but really it's coming from the side of the wheel well were the mount is.
A couple of messages back I noted I had installed the CB0005, but I also have the BMR handling springs to install. I wanted to try the CB0005 first to see how it felt. I sure hope this banging noise isn't the norm and is going to occur with these lowing springs when I install them??
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