Ford Racing ProCal Tune

I'm ford tunedwith the air raid intake tube, those are my only mods and I beat a 14 5.0 pretty consistently from a dig and 60 to about 110.

Good news. I have a dyno date on Friday so I can finally see what kind of numbers the car is making on this tune. I'll get a video too if I can.

ForYourOwnGood said:

Good news. I have a dyno date on Friday so I can finally see what kind of numbers the car is making on this tune. I'll get a video too if I can.

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Very nice man! Looking forward to it as I'll be doing the Ford tune after the bahamas next week!

Yellowboost said:

I'm ford tunedwith the air raid intake tube, those are my only mods and I beat a 14 5.0 pretty consistently from a dig and 60 to about 110.

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As I said before, with proper cooling, the Ford Performance tune is pretty darn good. You can definitely push significantly more power with an aftermarket tune, but I'm doubtful most of those cars will last 150k~200k miles.

I'll bet if you use a good inter cooler like the ATM, Levels Street or MAP Race etc. you'll be pushing even better, especially at the top end which is where heat soak really kicks in and drops power fast.

If it's a daily driver, it's not worth the sacrifice, 7k for a new engine and you should have bought a darn GT from the get go cause that's the price! Plus, we've seen engines pop now with ALL of the after market tunes except maybe Lund and LMS to my knowledge.

For a daily driver you depend on, the FP tune is the ONLY way to go due to it's extensive testing (especially over temperature and altitude) combined with the warranty. It's pretty darn good when paired with an inter cooler and gearing. I'm still hoping to go to the track once this fall just to see what I can do, or at least get it up on the dyno (cost me about $75 for 3 baseline runs)...if I do I'll share my results.

[MENTION=26348]Spykexx[/MENTION] let me know what you think after you get it. I have been on the fence between the tune or a catch can as my next big upgrade.

yomamma219 said:

@Spykexx let me know what you think after you get it. I have been on the fence between the tune or a catch can as my next big upgrade.

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get the tune, u will be much happier. Lets not debate the possible imaginary effects of a catch can lol

Thats why i went with Lund Lion... No ecopops from all the investigation i have been doing. And from all the investigation i did, i found teh Wagner evo 1 was better then the original ATM intercoolers.
I was called out for being sour that when i went looking for ATM the previous establishment went out of business. So i ended up with Wagner. But only after doing a lot of research. I did a search for wagner evo vs on here and found a user that had a Wagner Evo1 in his car. 'upgraded' to ATM and found it was not as good as the Wagner Evo1 but then upgraded to Wagner Evo2.

Oh and Ford tunes are not available in Australia lol

TheLion said:

As I said before, with proper cooling, the Ford Performance tune is pretty darn good. You can definitely push significantly more power with an aftermarket tune, but I'm doubtful most of those cars will last 150k~200k miles.

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This is the key right here, if you are planning on daily driving the car and keeping it for a while, Ford is the only way to go. While super conservative compared to aftermarket tunes, they know how much abuse the motor can take, and keep on operating on a daily basis.

I was split between the LMS 91 tune and the Ford Performance tune. Ultimately, I knew that while LMS 91 with 93 octane would give me a nice safety margin, I also like that the FP tune will dial things down if I happen to get a bad tank of gas sometime. Plus the car pulls PLENTY hard enough with the FP tune and a Mishimoto intercooler for my daily commute, so spending the extra for a few more ponies didn't make much sense.

I think in my case it also helped to see someone who has had both the LMS and the FP tunes, and that you found the FP to be good enough to stick with it. While I'm quite sure the LMS tune would really put a smile on my face, this one has corrected any sloppy shifts and lagginess during normal driving.

Thats why I'm going to stick with my Levels 20x14x3.5 in core. I was curious if the rounded bars made that big of a difference or not.

Full sized flat cores are usually better than stepped cores, a lot of surface area horizontally and vertically (think radiator) which makes more effective use of the internal volume.

That's why the Evo2 is a large full faced flat inter cooler like the Levels, MAP race, FullRace etc. The deeper the core the less efficient the back half is as the air passing through is already heated more and more the deeper it is. The back 50% of the core only does 25% of the cooling according to CP-es research and testing. I still don't think we can beat the Levels Street core for its price. And performance wise not anything meaningful.

But regarding the tune, Lund and LMS won't cover failures related for Ford defects that could cost you and engine like the guy who threw a cam phaser bolt and popped the motor. T hats not tune related but of course his warranty was voided so he paid the 7k.

Rcmchicago said:

Ive never gotten below 6 on my auto perf pack with the tune on 91, but im also not doing any kind of launch with the brake. Its my daily so dont want to screw anything up, im also around 6k ft up, but heard turbos arent as impacted

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I'm at 6000 feet as well. Best I've done is 6.4 with my 6spd MT, stock tune, ebay intercooler, 20" foundry wheels on P Zeros, and 3.31 gears. I'm positive I could hit 6 seconds, but I'm losing too much time in the 1-2 shift, I think.

Turbo's might not be as impacted as NA motors, but they seem to take a nasty hit at altitude anyway.

MT EB's are supposed to be able to hit 5.5 seconds and autos 5.3.

TheLion said:

That's why the Evo2 is a large full faced flat inter cooler like the Levels, MAP race, FullRace etc. The deeper the core the less efficient the back half is as the air passing through is already heated more and more the deeper it is. The back 50% of the core only does 25% of the cooling according to CP-es research and testing. I still don't think we can beat the Levels Street core for its price. And performance wise not anything meaningful.

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I looked real hard at the Levels, but didn't want Ford to cry that it didn't fit like stock in the event something were to occur under warranty. His shop is literally less than 15 minutes from my house, so it would have been perfect to be able to pick it up. Ended up with the Mishimoto due to stock fit, and an excellent local deal on a barely used unit. Definitely made a considerable difference, even with the stock tune.

metalhead79 said:

MT EB's are supposed to be able to hit 5.5 seconds and autos 5.3.

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I am 99.9% sure I hit 5.6 with the car bone stock, but unless I could figure out the perfect launch I don't see a 5.3 happening without drag radials or a sticky track.

metalhead79 said:

I'm at 6000 feet as well. Best I've done is 6.4 with my 6spd MT, stock tune, ebay intercooler, 20" foundry wheels on P Zeros, and 3.31 gears. I'm positive I could hit 6 seconds, but I'm losing too much time in the 1-2 shift, I think.

Turbo's might not be as impacted as NA motors, but they seem to take a nasty hit at altitude anyway.

MT EB's are supposed to be able to hit 5.5 seconds and autos 5.3.

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3.31 are going to kill your launch. I have a base model that HAD 3.31. I dropped in a 3.73 Torsen GT diff and my launches are SOOO much better now. Makes a huge difference as the turbo 4 is finicky to launch with a manual.

By the way, 3.73 is really good for 1/4, you'd trap (assuming your making the power) at around 106~108 in 4th gear with 3.73 at around 6000~6100 RPM, that's right at the end of the best of power band with the FP tune.

If your running a stick, I would HIGHLY recommend getting 3.73 gearing. I still get about 31~32 on the highway cruising at 77~78. I get about 34 cruising at 60~65 with the 3.73.

Although your 0-60 will suck with a 3.73 because you can't hit 60 in 2nd unless you put 28 inch DR's on it.

Best I was able to do with 3.31's with the stock 235 tires which sucked was 5.3. I would have probably shaved off another .1~.2 seconds with good tires that I could launch with. I found 2500 RPM and slightly slipping the clutch to get me to 5.3~5.4 consistently, anything more and I'd smoke the tires.

Haven't tried to time 0-60 yet with 3.73 due to needing to shift to 3rd, but it launches much more easily and consistently with that short first gear. Daily driving is also much easier in my opinion in the city due to easy starts. I can leave it in 6th gear more often as well without dropping below 1500 rpm etc. I think the only consideration for 3.31 in an EB is fuel economy or crazy power like 600HP+. 3.55 should in my opinion have been the standard gearing and 3.73 should have been the PP gearing like the GT.

The MT-82 on the GT is geared slightly higher internally than the MT-82 on the EB and V6, but 5th gear is 1:1 on both variants of the MT-82, so the GT would have about 10mph higher top end due to the extra 500 rpm (150 vs 140). Honestly though, there aren't many tracks that would permit those speeds without 500HP+, so most circuit tracks you see 110~130 at most which is right in the power band of a 3.73 gearing and FP tuned EB power band (5th gear at 6100 RPM is about 130).

solodogg said:

I looked real hard at the Levels, but didn't want Ford to cry that it didn't fit like stock in the event something were to occur under warranty. His shop is literally less than 15 minutes from my house, so it would have been perfect to be able to pick it up. Ended up with the Mishimoto due to stock fit, and an excellent local deal on a barely used unit. Definitely made a considerable difference, even with the stock tune.




I am 99.9% sure I hit 5.6 with the car bone stock, but unless I could figure out the perfect launch I don't see a 5.3 happening without drag radials or a sticky track.

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Same here, I hit about 5.6~5.7 bone stock with 3.31. The tune and inter cooler made the biggest difference in 3rd and higher gears because the stock FMIC would be ok in the lower first 2 gears so it still made full power.

TheLion said:

3.31 are going to kill your launch. I have a base model that HAD 3.31. I dropped in a 3.73 Torsen GT diff and my launches are SOOO much better now. Makes a huge difference as the turbo 4 is finicky to launch with a manual.

By the way, 3.73 is really good for 1/4, you'd trap (assuming your making the power) at around 106~108 in 4th gear with 3.73 at around 6000~6100 RPM, that's right at the end of the best of power band with the FP tune.

If your running a stick, I would HIGHLY recommend getting 3.73 gearing. I still get about 31~32 on the highway cruising at 77~78. I get about 34 cruising at 60~65 with the 3.73.

Although your 0-60 will suck with a 3.73 because you can't hit 60 in 2nd unless you put 28 inch DR's on it.

Best I was able to do with 3.31's with the stock 235 tires which sucked was 5.3. I would have probably shaved off another .1~.2 seconds with good tires that I could launch with. I found 2500 RPM and slightly slipping the clutch to get me to 5.3~5.4 consistently, anything more and I'd smoke the tires.

Haven't tried to time 0-60 yet with 3.73 due to needing to shift to 3rd, but it launches much more easily and consistently with that short first gear. Daily driving is also much easier in my opinion in the city due to easy starts. I can leave it in 6th gear more often as well without dropping below 1500 rpm etc. I think the only consideration for 3.31 in an EB is fuel economy or crazy power like 600HP+. 3.55 should in my opinion have been the standard gearing and 3.73 should have been the PP gearing like the GT.

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3.73's are on my to do list. I'm paying the car off after I close on my new house on August 9th. The serious fun will start soon after that.

Warranty be damned.