***Urgent*** Check Clutch Line At Brake Master Cylinder

Checked mine today while I was doing some other work under the hood (had been meaning to check). Good thing I did...the hose was right at the end of the nipple and actually sitting on an angle as if it were about to fall off completely. No fluid from what I saw. A gentle push and I felt a click as it seated.

My car was built October 2016 and has done 2,300 miles!!

spiller said:

Checked mine today while I was doing some other work under the hood (had been meaning to check). Good thing I did...the hose was right at the end of the nipple and actually sitting on an angle as if it were about to fall off completely. No fluid from what I saw. A gentle push and I felt a click as it seated.

My car was built October 2016 and has done 2,300 miles!!

Click to expand...

Damn, mine was built at the same time. I'll check mine today.

The problem comes from hose being too short for assembly. When they hang clutch/brake pedal assembly they pull hoses through firewall to slip it on master that's when it gets pulled away from reservoir. The hose is very stiff and short. It should stay put.

It could effect the self bleeding system on the clutch. Neither slave or master have bleed port. To bleed the clutch suppose put a vacuum on the reservoir and pump the clutch a bunch of times. if the clutch release point is vague you got air. I'd like a better quality line i bought stainless line for pressure side the plastic expand and makes quick shift a little mushy

Yup my 2017 was just like the first picture. Pushed it all the way on. Hope it stays. I'll keep an eye on it.

can we use an zip tide to do the job?

GT350 here. My line was fine, but after seeing it and everyone's pictures here, left me little to be confident about. With that said, I've instilled a double zip-tie method. Your average size zip-tie to hold the line straight on the master cylinder nipple, and a smaller / skinnier zip-tie to act as a small clamping force on the rubber hose. Keep in mind the larger zip-tie is not super tight, only tight enough to make the rubber hose line up straight with the nipple. I know its not much, but now I'll be able to sleep tonight at least...



What I think is happening is the hose is being pulled in a downward motion toward the other end due to the length being a tad bit too short, this pull is causing the rubber to stretch and no longer be a tight fit. Keeping the hose straight and level with the master cylinder nipple should prevent this premature rubber stretching (or so my thought process tells me).

350R here....just checked mine at 600 miles and it looked like it was about to fall off. Wow. What a great forum to bring to everyone's attention. I added a zip tie to hopefully add more security.

Silly question but does replacing with the braided clutch line fix this issue or is it still of an issue because some still use the connectors? It appears the aftermarket clutch lines are a bit longer.

Before and after (7700 miles) :

Had checked mine in June and it was almost off of the reservoir with some slight dirt that looks
To have adhered to the brake/clutch fluid that had seeped. I pressed it back on and it hasn't budged since.
BEFORE:


Just replaced the clutch. After I bleed it and have been driving it (600 miles) I wanted to check and see if I could get any more air to come out of the system by applying a vacuum again. Found out that under a vacuum if I wiggle my line you can see the air bubbles suck in from around the fitting. I could even hear the air suck in when I wiggle it. Not audible in this video.
[ame="[MEDIA=youtube]EBmTOP9I3lk[/MEDIA]"]

This really concerns me since I think it would be possible to draw in air into the clutch system.

Would really love to have an aftermarket line/hose that made a more positive seal between the clutch master cylinder and reservoir.

Ford clutch bleeding procedure on post#5 of this (http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63197&highlight=Clutch+bleed) thread for those of you wondering.

Thanks for the info guys. I just saw mine and it was seeping very very slowly as I saw some fluid build up at the end. Mine was about halfway off from what it seemed like and I pushed it back till the end. I tugged on it lightly and it seemed to be locked in place.

I tightened a zip tie around the head just to be a little safer so hopefully that will keep it from moving anymore if it does, hopefully. Wouldn't have known about this if this post wasn't made lol, so thanks again!

Mine was pulled back like the first photo, pushed it, seemed to click and lock on. Reservoir looks full, didn't see any signs of fluid leaks around the area.

The line is short, like too short, I'm thinking any kind of movement could wiggle it out - I'm going to put a zip tie on mine as well to hopefully take some of the stress off it.

Mine was back a bit; just a small amount of fluid around the connector. Very hard to move because the hose is so tight (probably a body mount somewhere down below). I was able to move it further onto the nipple but there wasn't a click indicating a lock. Since the hose is so tight I wonder if engine torque may cause it to separate a bit.

qtrracer said:

Since the hose is so tight I wonder if engine torque may cause it to separate a bit.

Click to expand...

Could be ... does the engine torque to the passenger side when under load?

somebody said the new models fix it, ANY PICS