Crankshaft snout snapped

GrabberBlue5oh · Jul 17, 2017

JB weld?

isedawishy · Jul 17, 2017

olaosunt said:
I am not sure you want a recommendation from me given my luck with these motors .
Lol.
when my crank snapped the heads were trashed so I would be planning on a long block .

I do have a complete forged rotating assembly(Manley rods/pistons ) and good heads for sale cheap .

Sorry for the plug .

No shame in the plug, may end up working out. If you want to PM pricing that'd be cool. For the entire lot and also just the heads.

jhatley7 said:
I have a salvageable block with crank, and local lol.

PM me as well!

beefcake · Jul 17, 2017

in all honesty my best guess on a Paxton or Vortech it would be a balancer that wasn't torque properly or put in properly

We have a new install tool that we're using now that we also sell that helps alleviate that problem

that really is the only thing I can see causing the issue

isedawishy · Jul 17, 2017

beefcake said:
in all honesty my best guess on a Paxton or Vortech it would be a balancer that wasn't torque properly or put in properly

We have a new install tool that we're using now that we also sell that helps alleviate that problem

that really is the only thing I can see causing the issue

What's the tool do exactly? Help keep everything aligned when tightening down? Is it on yalls site? I can pass it to my shop.

F1scamp · Jul 17, 2017

Did it break right where the threads end?

isedawishy · Jul 17, 2017

F1scamp said:
Did it break right where the threads end?

Pretty much, some of the bolt was sticking out when we put it through the balancer. I'm not sure what broke first, no way of really knowing. If the snout snapped then the bolt would definitely go too.

GTBOB · Jul 17, 2017

Is the bolt bent at all? If not, then I would think the bolt itself failed BEFORE the crank decided to fracture.

isedawishy · Jul 17, 2017

GTBOB said:
Is the bolt bent at all? If not, then I would think the bolt itself failed BEFORE the crank decided to fracture.

It was bent a little...

Should have got a pic of just the bolt. Could visually see it was bent though.

TooSoonJunior · Jul 17, 2017

There's a new designed ARP bolt with a longer bolt and formed two step washer that sits flush to the crank, guessing you had the standard ARP crank bolt.

isedawishy · Jul 17, 2017

TooSoonJunior said:
There's a new designed ARP bolt with a longer bolt and formed two step washer that sits flush to the crank, guessing you had the standard ARP crank bolt.

Yep, standard ARP bolt and washer. Don't think that part was available at the time...

beefcake · Jul 17, 2017

we just recently started using the mmr bolt with the upgraded washer

and

the maf racing install kit as well

http://teambeefcakeracing.com/444393.html

http://teambeefcakeracing.com/maf-racing-performance-tool.html

mustang_guy · Jul 17, 2017

jhatley7 said:
Boss 302 or a $4,000 billet crank should help that issue. Nothing is a guarantee tho.

Once I finish my setup you should come see it to see if it something you would want.

Monster TT build lol.

Could have sworn we use the boss 302 forged crank

jhatley7 · Jul 17, 2017

mustang_guy said:
Could have sworn we use the boss 302 forged crank

Our stock crank is forged?

mustang_guy · Jul 17, 2017

jhatley7 said:
Our stock crank is forged?

Im 99% sure it is. We use their bearings and rods too. We borrowed a ton from the roadrunner actually.

Travis@boostworks · Jul 18, 2017

We ran 35psi with a 4.7LC KB at over 1800bhp on a stock crank. ATI balancer and ARP bolt. That blower takes around 300hp to turn at that boost level.

Crankshaft snout snapped

GrabberBlue5oh

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isedawishy

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beefcake

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isedawishy

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F1scamp

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isedawishy

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GTBOB

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isedawishy

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isedawishy

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Travis@boostworks

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