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Crankshaft snout snapped

HISSMAN

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Has to be part due to a bad install, or just bad luck at getting that one in a million cranks with a manufactured flaw in it.
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HISSMAN

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Or get a rental GT and do the old swapparoonie.


That is why I know a lady with a 65.5 mustang that has a 1966 GT350H engine in it... :lol:
 
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isedawishy

isedawishy

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hard to say without knowing what caused the issue, it wouldn't be blower related as far as pulling as the kits use the oem tensioner, the crank literally doesn't know the blower is on their from a "belt" standpoint

i'm still on my stock crank with 1150 rwhp and 150-200 passes if i had to guess

the stock cranks is pretty good,
Are the OPG, CS and ATI balancer warranty-able?

New MMR ARP crank bolt might have helped? Sucks man best of luck getting her back up and running.
It had an ARP crank bolt. Installer used red loctite and torqued it down per spec.

Was the new balancer torqued down correctly and a new bolt used??
Yep. It's been on the car about 1500 miles as well with many WOT pulls.

My only guess would be improperly installed balancer. But damn that does suck, sorry to hear. Shortblocks are cheap, but the valves probably took a good beating as well. Might be able to have someone go through the heads and just put a shortblock in it.
I figure if it was installed incorrectly it would have went a long while ago?

Maybe the balancer wasn't installed perfectly square, this wobbling out of balance?

Defiantly sucks!! Get it pulled and torn down to assess the damage. If timing is off, likely topend damage.

Min, you are are looking at a shortblock, might as well build it better since you are already boosted and tore apart.
Won't be able to get the motor out for another week or so to really know what all needs replacing. I just don't want to throw in a new motor and it happens again. I'm unsure how to try to prevent this from happening, especially when I already had the parts which I thought would prevent.

Debating on a sleeved block and just going turbo... but that of course is a huge expense all at once.

Here's a couple more pics...

35151616884_942292bc66_z.jpg
https://flic.kr/p/Vyee35 https://www.flickr.com/photos/19082806@N06/
35991417945_2693159ae9_z.jpg
https://flic.kr/p/WQrqCH https://www.flickr.com/photos/19082806@N06/
 

jhatley7

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Boss 302 or a $4,000 billet crank should help that issue. Nothing is a guarantee tho.

Once I finish my setup you should come see it to see if it something you would want.

Monster TT build lol.
 

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christian

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Sorry to hear man...damn. Made me just order ARP's new bolt just in case
 

olaosunt

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Damn sorry man!
When I had my 12/whipple/2.9 with 20% lower it snapped the crank off an alluminator(yes I have been destroying motors since then...LOL) when I hit the speed limiter .

At least your nick name is not " coyote killer " like mine is .(I think I have killed 6 at the last count .lol)

May be double key the crank when you build the new motor ?
 
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isedawishy

isedawishy

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Boss 302 or a $4,000 billet crank should help that issue. Nothing is a guarantee tho.

Once I finish my setup you should come see it to see if it something you would want.

Monster TT build lol.
I'm leaning towards a sleeved block and moving to turbos. Just finished the 6r80 swap, so what the hell. I just don't want this happening again and am a firm believer in do it once, do it right.

Just figured my current setup would have lasted a bit longer.

The only thing that has recently changed outside of the transmission swap is moving to the Gates RPM belt. It was the same length as the green belt I was running, but everyone says the RPM is a bit tighter.

Sorry to hear man...damn. Made me just order ARP's new bolt just in case
:cheers:
 
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isedawishy

isedawishy

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Damn sorry man!
When I had my 12/whipple/2.9 with 20% lower it snapped the crank off an alluminator(yes I have been destroying motors since then...LOL) when I hit the speed limiter .

At least your nick name is not " coyote killer " like mine is .(I think I have killed 6 at the last count .lol)

May be double key the crank when you build the new motor ?
I don't want to be known for popping motors, too expensive! What would your recommendations be for a motor?
 

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olaosunt

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Boss 302 or a $4,000 billet crank should help that issue. Nothing is a guarantee tho.

Once I finish my setup you should come see it to see if it something you would want.

Monster TT build lol.
I think the Boss 302 crank is the same as the one in every coyote motor .
Race prep ?
Credo treat?
Double key ?......or do like Jhatey and go TT !!
 

dubster99

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I've seen turbo motors snap it too. Not sure there's any rhyme or reason to why/when it happens.
 

olaosunt

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I don't want to be known for popping motors, too expensive! What would your recommendations be for a motor?

I am not sure you want a recommendation from me given my luck with these motors .
Lol.
when my crank snapped the heads were trashed so I would be planning on a long block .

I do have a complete forged rotating assembly(Manley rods/pistons ) and good heads for sale cheap .

Sorry for the plug .
 

jhatley7

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I think the Boss 302 crank is the same as the one in every coyote motor .
Race prep ?
Credo treat?
Double key ?......or do like Jhatey and go TT !!
Not sure double key or race prep would really help in this situation.

The end all would be billet but damn thats a lot of coin.
 

jhatley7

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I have a salvageable block with crank, and local lol.
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