BREAK-IN?

cking said:

How does my anecdotal association violate manufacturers recommendation? It was response to people who are worried about buying a car that requires a long drive home. So reflecting on manufacturers recommendations which do you think provides a better break in short daily drives or a long drive. My vote goes to a long drive.

"Break in needs lots of full and zero throttle. " I disagree with lots of full throttle which means max load, and limit rpm peaks till break in completed. I think Ford said no peak rpm till 100 plus miles and no track days till 1000 miles. I also believe babying is bad.

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I didn't say your association violates manufacturers recommendations. I said that the engines have to be designed so that differences like these won't matter. What we all think, believe, theorize, or prophesize has no bearing.

Demonic said:

What we all think, believe, theorize, or prophesize has no bearing.

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Demonic, a theory can cause no action but can predict the future.

I followed the manual for break-in. Ford said 6mos or 7500mi for first oil change so that's how it's gonna go down on mine. If something blows up that will be Ford's problem to make right as I am warrantied out the wazoo...not worried about it.

2500mi and no issues at all so far...cold oil level has been at bottom hole since I first checked it at 900mi.

chitlins37 said:

I followed the manual for break-in. Ford said 6mos or 7500mi for first oil change so that's how it's gonna go down on mine. If something blows up that will be Ford's problem to make right as I am warrantied out the wazoo...not worried about it.

2500mi and no issues at all so far...cold oil level has been at bottom hole since I first checked it at 900mi.

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Interesting, about oil change everybody mentioned seeing a lot junk in oil [not metal] I guess Ford is Ok with it left in there. I wanted it out so dumped first batch at 900m . Didn't really decide on that number it was in the air for MGW and found a few drops of oil on the filter so changed it. haven't cut filter open yet

cking said:

Interesting, about oil change everybody mentioned seeing a lot junk in oil [not metal] I guess Ford is Ok with it left in there. I wanted it out so dumped first batch at 900m . Didn't really decide on that number it was in the air for MGW and found a few drops of oil on the filter so changed it. haven't cut filter open yet

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I don't necessarily agree with the non metal part of your statement. We have no proof one way or another if metal was or was not present in anyone's oil. I can say without doubt that a significant amount of debris was present in mine after the first 100+ miles. What I did not do was examine said debris to determine if any of it was ferrous or not. Though manufacturing processes are far better these days I think it plausible that some metal could have been present. When all is taken into consideration, I'm still very content that like yourself, I changed it early.

On/off throttle for a couple hundred miles is the way to go. Don't baby it or over rev it. My biggest concern is proper clutch break in.

All my oil samples are sent off for analysis. It is expected that a new motor has normal fragments of various metallic compounds. Certain levels are acceptable and go down as the engine breaks in.

Not only does oil analysis document each oil change, but it also is an inictator of the health of the engine as well as an indicator that the car has been cared for.

I'm at 300 miles on the new R. I saw what my oil looked like on my first oil change at 1000 miles on the old track pack and I want that crap out of there asap. Most of the material in question was bits of sealant (liquid gasket) that was in excess.

To each his own, but I prefer to get that crap out of my motor asap.

I was at the first gt350 track attack. I drove #13, lightning blue which had 65 miles on her when I got hold of her. I drove her hard and put her away wet. She is still there in Tooele taking the beatings.

The way I approach my break ins now (after my second 350) is to go easy the first hundred miles or so while varying the RPM. Then I get into the higher RPM's not under heavy load (demand). Once per session, I will take it to above 7K under light load and let the engine brake down to seat the rings.

The track attack cars where driven hard and put away wet. Some of the original cars are still at it to include lucky #13.

GTthree50 said:

I don't necessarily agree with the non metal part of your statement. We have no proof one way or another if metal was or was not present in anyone's oil. I can say without doubt that a significant amount of debris was present in mine after the first 100+ miles. What I did not do was examine said debris to determine if any of it was ferrous or not. Though manufacturing processes are far better these days I think it plausible that some metal could have been present. When all is taken into consideration, I'm still very content that like yourself, I changed it early.

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I haven't dumped my oil yet I'm going to put one those super magnets in see what it collects. Then I'll cut filter open

Prowl647 said:

I've done controlled hard break ins on my last few cars and never had issue with burning oil. Past cars include audi s4, brz, Evo x, Mazda CX-5 and wrx. I'm a staunch believer in controlled hard break ins. Besides, if it breaks don't you want it to break within warranty?

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I agree. I remember the mototune break in when it first started making rounds on the internet. Back then I thought it was crazy ! years later I firmly believe its the best way. Engine builders do it that way, race teams do it that way... Not that they know anything about oem engines :shrug:

I first change the oil asap. Original oil may have shavings, start up lube or sealants and silicone etc from first start. I warm up the engine, and get oil temps hot. Then wot hard and deccel all the way down several times until oil temps rise. then cruise to let it cool down... then repeat at least 5/6 times or until Im low on gas :headbonk:. Then I change the oil while its still a little hot. Then I do it again.. and change the oil again. then every 5k or so depending on useage.

The idea in a nutshell is to help the rings seat under 2 conditions. 1. When engine temperatures are where they will be during desired useage so all metal parts and components are expanded etc. 2. WOT produces Heat and can alter ring seal as combustion pressure is at its highest vs part throttle etc.

Just my .02

Tomster said:

I was at the first gt350 track attack. I drove #13, lightning blue which had 65 miles on her when I got hold of her. I drove her hard and put her away wet. She is still there in Tooele taking the beatings.

The way I approach my break ins now (after my second 350) is to go easy the first hundred miles or so while varying the RPM. Then I get into the higher RPM's not under heavy load (demand). Once per session, I will take it to above 7K under light load and let the engine brake down to seat the rings.

The track attack cars where driven hard and put away wet. Some of the original cars are still at it to include lucky #13.

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Lucky 13 was not in the line up as of last week (maybe they changed it to 12?) But red 8 had some nasty valve train noise coming from it.