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Sai Li System Help

smokinzx14r

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I can check for sure but I believe the system is at 63psi with pumps on and at idle both. I think 1 the car is learning and 2 the plugs were shit. They looked dry fouled and were now gapped to 0.035 from wear. Here is the log from today after swapping plugs out.


http://www.datazap.me/u/venumous/sa...-17-18-19-20-21&trim=0&tmin=91.06&tmax=106.55
I'm going to check mine running at idle and see what it is ... But with just the key on and motor NOT running it is set at 48 PSI ... That is were Sai Li set mine to ..He said it would go up at idle and not to worry but I would still like to know anyway ..I'll try it Thursday and report back ..
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Sai set mine to run all the time , I don't care for that myself ... If I take it in to the dealer for the door latch recall what happens if the service writer or some one else taps the brake after the car is off .. The pump will run and either burn up the pumps or kill the battery.. I'm very careful so I know if I trip the pumps by touching the brake peddle and I know to cycle the start button and tune them off ... I'm going to wire it back to the stock wire that is on the timer so this will not happen .. In case you guys didn't know this you can make the pump start up run time longer in the tune ..I may have Sai make mine a bit longer because the E85 tune takes a little longer to start at times ..
E85 always takes longer to fire...nature of the beast.
 
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venumous

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Sai set mine to run all the time , I don't care for that myself ... If I take it in to the dealer for the door latch recall what happens if the service writer or some one else taps the brake after the car is off .. The pump will run and either burn up the pumps or kill the battery.. I'm very careful so I know if I trip the pumps by touching the brake peddle and I know to cycle the start button and tune them off ... I'm going to wire it back to the stock wire that is on the timer so this will not happen .. In case you guys didn't know this you can make the pump start up run time longer in the tune ..I may have Sai make mine a bit longer because the E85 tune takes a little longer to start at times ..
Just rewired mine to how it's done in install DIY instead of having relays running to fuse box, which is how installer did it. It previously primed continuously, now wired to FPDM to prime like stock. I also moved the ground from where they had it under the OBD2 plastic female plug and moved directly to body. I'm pretty sure my clutch is causing false knock like Mark pointed out. Seems like 800whp killed it right away.
 

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I have had an rxt in my living room for a few months waiting. Once I put the 3.31's in and drop a pulley I'm expecting the stocker to go.
 
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Hopefully this log helps confirm what is going on (false or real). Lund says fuel looks good so I guess it must be false. The two things that come to mind are:

1. Clutch Slip
2. MAK inlet tube is bumping something sometimes and not other times on tip in, which makes sense to me. I'm going to plop the stock one on and test that.

http://www.datazap.me/u/venumous/sai-li-e85-r3-v2-knock?log=0&data=7-8-10-13-14-16-17-18

Becoming super frustrated with the car at this point. I never had any false knock issues at all up to this point.
 

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I'm going to check mine running at idle and see what it is ... But with just the key on and motor NOT running it is set at 48 PSI ... That is were Sai Li set mine to ..He said it would go up at idle and not to worry but I would still like to know anyway ..I'll try it Thursday and report back ..

Does Sai use the vacuum reference on the regulator for his tunes? Lund does not.
 

higdominator

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Does Sai use the vacuum reference on the regulator for his tunes? Lund does not.
Hmm, that's odd. I remember him telling me on a non-related build that I would want to make sure I could get a vacuum signal to my regulator is I went boost.

I've always ran a boost reference to a regulator. Set base pressure with it off then connect the tube so FP rises 1:1 with boost pressure.
 
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Yeah I don't know. I even further confirmed that the regulator should in fact be open to atmosphere at one point and he said, yes. Anyone else running Lund confirm your tune is final with no boost reference?
 

whatsup62

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Yeah I don't know. I even further confirmed that the regulator should in fact be open to atmosphere at one point and he said, yes. Anyone else running Lund confirm your tune is final with no boost reference?
Yep...I am.
Here is exactly what Jon II told me when we were setting it up....

I want the base fuel pressure set to 58 psi with the engine running and the manifold reference off the regulator. Once set, leave the reference off and let the regulator reference atmosphere, so don't cap the nipple on the regulator.

Been running that way every since I switched to E85...absolutely no issues.
 
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So you had it hooked up with a vacuum line, set to 58psi, then capped the manifold side and left the regulator open to atmosphere?
 

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smokinzx14r

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Does Sai use the vacuum reference on the regulator for his tunes? Lund does not.
Yes .... As I said I would I checked the Pressure numbers on my regulator ... Pump on car not running 52 PSI / Engine running at idle 48 PSI ..
 

smokinzx14r

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Yeah I don't know. I even further confirmed that the regulator should in fact be open to atmosphere at one point and he said, yes. Anyone else running Lund confirm your tune is final with no boost reference?
That is strange .. I have done 100s of turbo bikes and also use the same type regulator . Vacuum always hooked to the regulator so it would see boost and ramp up fuel PSI under boost ..Other wise what would be the point of a return type fuel system ?:confused:
 

smokinzx14r

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Hopefully this log helps confirm what is going on (false or real). Lund says fuel looks good so I guess it must be false. The two things that come to mind are:

1. Clutch Slip
2. MAK inlet tube is bumping something sometimes and not other times on tip in, which makes sense to me. I'm going to plop the stock one on and test that.

http://www.datazap.me/u/venumous/sai-li-e85-r3-v2-knock?log=0&data=7-8-10-13-14-16-17-18

Becoming super frustrated with the car at this point. I never had any false knock issues at all up to this point.
I don't get why you would have Knock problems .. My Mak pipe hits in 2 places , my procharger charge pipe hits where it come though the rad support and also my Procharger coolant tank hits the clamp on the charger tube ( that is a easy fix by rotating the clamp ) But I have not fixed any of the points where it hits and I have zero Knock on any of my logs , I mean if it did have knock it would not run 9s like it does ..

I should add my Knock sensors are set to stock ( not turned off ) and timing is set to 21 deg and pull 7 deg if needed ..
 
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I don't know, I thought I had it fixed yesterday as I pulled the MAK tube then drove for 20 mins trying to get it to knock on tip in and it wouldn't. I did a 2-4 pull WOT and it ran like a monster. Then, shortly after... knock. I've read things like this and how people just give up and pull the car apart and sell, I kind of understand why now.

http://www.datazap.me/u/venumous/mak-inlet-removed-chopped?log=0&data=7-8-13-14-16
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