JaxS550
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 19, 2016
- Threads
- 10
- Messages
- 137
- Reaction score
- 36
- Location
- Jacksonville, FL
- First Name
- John
- Vehicle(s)
- 2016 S550 GT PP
- Thread starter
- #1
Hey Guys,
So like most people I get the occasional lock out going from 2-3rd gear. I also want a shorter throw and just a cleaner feel rowing through the gears. $400 plus for a whole new shifter was a little out of my budget so I started doing some research...
I am a big fan of Steeda products so I saw their Tri-Ax Street shifter lever. Thought that was a good start but wanted to know the difference between that and the full Race spec Tri-Ax. What you gain and what you don't with each set up.
I watched all the Street install videos that I could find on YouTube, included CJPony. I couldn't see much as they were making a point that you could install it with the exhaust and drive shaft in. Then I watched the Race install video and they removed the exhaust and DS purely to show more details on everything they were doing.
This was a HUGE help just to see how exactly the stock stuff comes out. When searching around for pictures of the stock shifter, I found the main "bridge arm" or connecting arm that attaches to the top of the trans and front of the shifter housing was this thin black arm that didn't look very stout. In the CJ Pony video of the Race install, you see Bill removing the stock shifter and that arm was very stout looking, bunch of triangular bracing down the arm...
So the main point in deflection would appear to be from the rear shifter brace that mounts to the body/back of the shifter housing. That stock piece just looks horrible, no way it could keep the shifter from moving all over the place.
Then when Bill is getting the Race shifter put together, he removes the two plastic rings from the stock shifter and moves those over to the new Race set up. He also has to use the actual linkage from the stock shifter. So essentially the new shifter is actually using the stock pieces that the lever rests in inside of the housing, and stock linkage. (Same case for the street shifter)
So, hopefully you have stuck with me so far. If the main deflection is from the rear side of the shifter housing, and the new lever sits in the stock plastic cups/rings with stock linkage...WHY pay over $400 just for a new shifter housing. I bought the street shifter and Steeda rear brace for about $175 (Thanks LMR discount code). The only capability that I see that I am losing is swapping the springs in the shifter housing to make it stiffer. I don't really care to do that, so I think this set up will give me everything I am looking for, and maybe help you guys save a few bucks as well.
Once I get these installed (I will see if I can take some good photos) I will try and report back.
So like most people I get the occasional lock out going from 2-3rd gear. I also want a shorter throw and just a cleaner feel rowing through the gears. $400 plus for a whole new shifter was a little out of my budget so I started doing some research...
I am a big fan of Steeda products so I saw their Tri-Ax Street shifter lever. Thought that was a good start but wanted to know the difference between that and the full Race spec Tri-Ax. What you gain and what you don't with each set up.
I watched all the Street install videos that I could find on YouTube, included CJPony. I couldn't see much as they were making a point that you could install it with the exhaust and drive shaft in. Then I watched the Race install video and they removed the exhaust and DS purely to show more details on everything they were doing.
This was a HUGE help just to see how exactly the stock stuff comes out. When searching around for pictures of the stock shifter, I found the main "bridge arm" or connecting arm that attaches to the top of the trans and front of the shifter housing was this thin black arm that didn't look very stout. In the CJ Pony video of the Race install, you see Bill removing the stock shifter and that arm was very stout looking, bunch of triangular bracing down the arm...
So the main point in deflection would appear to be from the rear shifter brace that mounts to the body/back of the shifter housing. That stock piece just looks horrible, no way it could keep the shifter from moving all over the place.
Then when Bill is getting the Race shifter put together, he removes the two plastic rings from the stock shifter and moves those over to the new Race set up. He also has to use the actual linkage from the stock shifter. So essentially the new shifter is actually using the stock pieces that the lever rests in inside of the housing, and stock linkage. (Same case for the street shifter)
So, hopefully you have stuck with me so far. If the main deflection is from the rear side of the shifter housing, and the new lever sits in the stock plastic cups/rings with stock linkage...WHY pay over $400 just for a new shifter housing. I bought the street shifter and Steeda rear brace for about $175 (Thanks LMR discount code). The only capability that I see that I am losing is swapping the springs in the shifter housing to make it stiffer. I don't really care to do that, so I think this set up will give me everything I am looking for, and maybe help you guys save a few bucks as well.
Once I get these installed (I will see if I can take some good photos) I will try and report back.
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